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Has anyone experimented with gearing?

So any consensus on gearing for low elevation? And coupled with a 60/40 helix?

Thanks.
 
I hav'nt geared down my 2011, but I went with 19/43 on my 08 Dragon and sold them with the sled. I wish I would have kept them as they do make a big change in how the sled operates. The thing I really noticed is how much better the lower gearing works for going down hill. Much easier to keep the clutches engaged without needing to use the brakes so much.
 
I run 19/45 in my personal sled and IMO it works great. Greater RPM accuracy in the steep and deep, and more bottom and mid power. I don't ride any trails except for a mile or two in and it doesn't seem to be too "buzzy" on the trail, can still do about 75 if needed but what mountain sled needs to do that? Clutches seem a little cooler than they were at 19/42.
 
First I’m running 19/42 but only because I had a 19T top gear a put it in there shortly after break in. If I was to open it up again, and the chain looked good I’d most likely put a 43T on the bottom. If the chain needed replacing then I’d probably put the stock 20T back in and run a 45T on the bottom. With my clutching I’ve had good luck gearing around 2.25:1 but that’s just me. And not saying I wouldn’t go lower if I was to put on a 3” lug track, or longer track (mines a 155), but that’s another topic.

So, clarifying the speedo situation mtnclimber brought up. Correct me if I’m wrong but…. The way I understand it, the track speed calculated for the display is based off a sensor that is measuring the speed of the drive shaft with drivers that are 8T x 2.86P (~22.88” circumference). If you run 7T x 3P drivers (~21” Cir) your track speed will be slower than what’s shown on the display (i.e. your speedo would read fast). In other words your track is not traveling as far per each revolution of the drive shaft. Not to mention this will also gear you down a little.

And therein lies what mtnclimber was referring to. But you have to make the calculation to get track speed. The speedo does not account for the different size driver.

Stock driver – 45 mph on the speedo & 45 mph track speed.
7Tx 3P driver – 49 mph on the speedo & 45 mph track speed
 
Yes the 19t upgrade alone works very well, we sell a **** load of 19t top gears for Pro rmk. I just think the 19/45 works even better for steep and deep
 
Yes the 19t upgrade alone works very well, we sell a **** load of 19t top gears for Pro rmk. I just think the 19/45 works even better for steep and deep

i bet the lowend is awesome however i ride around 1500-2000 feet at home allot where most of my riding occurs and on flatlands I don't want to loose to much of my topend but will sacrifice some top end for better lowend :face-icon-small-hap
 
in reply to DooTimes that speed was off the speedo not gps, but as mtnclimber stated the speedo will remain accurate no matter what gearing is because it senses drive shaft speed on the opposite side of the chaincase. Therefore the only way you will make your speedo off is by changing to a driver with a different OD. So yes with 18/46 your still hitting a 69/70ish top speed.
 
Worked fantastic!

Hey guys just thought ide get back on how i likes the 19/42 set up. Changing the gear was a breeze, and for the gains your get you cant go wrong for the price, Sure noticed the difference and didnt notice any difference on top end but who buys a RMK to to 70 mph anyway! In short thanks for all the imput will deffinately be doing this to future sleds, now polaris just needs to make gearing changes for the Quick Drive!
 
What will an 18/42 set up be like? has anyone done this, and i assume that a 19/43 can use the stock chain, a 18/42 should be able to run the stock chain as well?
 
Bending your chain around the 18 is less than desirable but you can do it. The down side is more of a dog-leg in the chain (less efficient) and less teeth in contact with the chain (I wouldn't run gobs of HP with that top gear - JMHO). Many have done it without any problem at all.

As a general rule of thumb... add the number of teeth together for the top and bottom gear... if they add up to 62 or less = stock chain. 63 or more = next larger chain.
 
So i put the 18 top gear in last night, just got back from a ride over lunch hour and wow! talk about waking the sled up! pulls really good, feels like it did when i bought the sled new last year. Holding a steady 8200 rpm in the deep with track speed in the 38-40 mph range. Very happy.
 
Just curious, the guys that went down 1 tooth on the top gear, did any of you guys add clutch wait or just keep running the same clutch weights as before?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
Just curious, the guys that went down 1 tooth on the top gear, did any of you guys add clutch wait or just keep running the same clutch weights as before?

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Same weight. For the most part you won't turn more RPM, maybe 30-50 more, but your RPM consistency will be much tighter.
 
So i put the 18 top gear in last night, just got back from a ride over lunch hour and wow! talk about waking the sled up! pulls really good, feels like it did when i bought the sled new last year. Holding a steady 8200 rpm in the deep with track speed in the 38-40 mph range. Very happy.
now some new lungs and u be pulling 8400 :tongue:
 
Really want to try this 19t top.....

Could you guys walk me through 'how to change gears' for the Pro? Haven't tried it on a polaris. Is the cover glued on? or is it just a simple pull off the cover, loosen the chain, swap the gear, finger tighten the chain, reinstall the cover.

Thanks!
 
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