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Has anybody ever blown up a boosted Phazer?

My wife moved from a N/A apex to a turbo phazer. Thing is a blast to ride at 8 lbs. I wouldn't mind one for myself most days. Ours is basically a one off boondocker kit. I think a mcx rear mount would be the way to go if I was building/buying another one. Super would be a lot of fun on there too.
 
Ya know, this just might be a FUN SUMMER project.

Anyone know what the FUTURE holds in store for the Phazers?
Is Yamaha ready to retire that sled line?
Does kinda seem like they are getting long in the tooth, just like the Nytro and Apex..
 
So what is a AFR :)))) man I just want to ride with out tools and buttons:face-icon-small-win hang on the ups man just drove by:face-icon-small-hap
 
My mcx phazer was a blast. I put a 151 camo on it and made a few adjustments to the clutching. It would directly bitch slap any new 800 production sled at that time in every aspect.
 
Has anybody ever blown up a boosted Phazer that was setup correctly? I would like to validate a rumor or disprove it.

I ran mine at 14lbs and it worked great (still have machine even). The weakness in the boosted Phazer motor is that the cylinder walls are unsupported at the top of the stroke. Take the head off and look down into the water jacket. You will see that there is NO bridging across the water jacket between the cylinder inside and the outside of the block. Too much heat and boost and you will swell the cylinder at the top. Justin at Outlaw Motorsports was pushing 18+ boost plus a shot of NOS and POP! I'm sure that was one of those "It was running great just before she blew!" scenarios.
 
Sad to say my old Supercharged Phazer blew up. That being said it left Colorado with the GEMS set for 10k altitude and it went to New York.....I can pretty well guess what happened.

If you have a Supercharged Yamaha DO NOT run it if you have not became familiar in how to set the GEMS for altitude.

BOX #2 (6 wires)
1. This control box only controls the altitude compensation.
2. There are 2 Software versions for this Control Box. The early version has 5 modes, the later version
only has 1 Mode. Both versions of software function identically.
3. Older Version with 5 Modes:
a. Mode 1: Green, Mode 2: Yellow and Mode 3: Red have no impact on this control box!
Leave these set at 1 fast blinking.
b. Mode 4 & 5: Green/Blue and Yellow/Blue– These MUST ALWAYS BE SET TO THE
SAME NUMBER. CAREFUL, if you set this too low you may not be able to restart your
snowmobile. If this happens, turn your key and kill switch on, and readjust the setting back
up.
4. Newer Version with 1 Mode:
a. Mode 1: Green/Blue CAREFUL, if you set this too low you may not be able to restart your
snowmobile. If this happens, turn your key and kill switch on, and readjust the setting back
up.
5. Basic Altitude Compensation is Set at 5.0. At 6000 feet try 4, at 10,000 less (like 3), At Sea Level try
more, like 6.
Notes:
1. Radical changes in the controllers’ settings CAN CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE TO YOUR
SNOWMOBILE. If the sled does not act correctly and anything seems out of the ordinary compared
to your unit when it was stock (other than it now hauls ***). STOP and seek advice. Advise is free
and motors are expensive
 
had mine (140 hp) since 2014. ride it with a heavy 162". never a problem, besides a meltet y-pipe of my own making. run i within the specs of MCX and it will last forever.
 
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