For those of you thinking of geting rid of the Phazer -----don't
Just did a few mods to make the Phazer Mountain work for our female riding companions
1- removed sway bar widened ski stance ( first stock shocks now Floats)
2-Moved torsion spring slider block back to the second hole to stop it from bottoming out.
3- Installed a home made coupler block to couple up sooner and keep the skis on the ground.
4- drilled a bunch of holes in the running-boards to get rid of the snow
( 0ne kick cleans it out every time)
and close of the hole under the muffler.
5-I cranked the secondary one notch tighter
We went out today braking trail into one of our local riding areas 1.5 to 2 feet of fluff on top of a light base.
First of the running boards ------- they stay nice and clean even when you get a bunch of snow on then ( carving powder) they clear out easy snow just falls through. There is considerable less ice build up in the tunnel I bet it stays 25 pounds lighter since the hole is covered in.
The stiffened up suspension along with the coupler block really keeps the skis down in steep Climbs up the twisty mountain trails even braking trail it has a real planted solid feel to it.
That along with the wide ski stance makes it go where you point it at any time. Without the sway bar it seems to have way less tendency to tip ----don't ask me why just try it.
You will have to pre-load the spring on the stock shocks to the upper end
with the left one notch less tight than the right.
It seemed to always drag down the rpm in deep snow and didn't give the rider a lot of confidence in its ability to spin the track. After tightening up the secondary it ****s around 11600 to 11900 rpm and feels and sounds way better.
The sled gets around way better than before since the suspension actually holds it up and the engine revs higher.
The only downfall is it does not carve as well as before ( I made it to stable for my liking) but she Loves it so I win no more complaints.
Cheers............
Just did a few mods to make the Phazer Mountain work for our female riding companions
1- removed sway bar widened ski stance ( first stock shocks now Floats)
2-Moved torsion spring slider block back to the second hole to stop it from bottoming out.
3- Installed a home made coupler block to couple up sooner and keep the skis on the ground.
4- drilled a bunch of holes in the running-boards to get rid of the snow
( 0ne kick cleans it out every time)
and close of the hole under the muffler.
5-I cranked the secondary one notch tighter
We went out today braking trail into one of our local riding areas 1.5 to 2 feet of fluff on top of a light base.
First of the running boards ------- they stay nice and clean even when you get a bunch of snow on then ( carving powder) they clear out easy snow just falls through. There is considerable less ice build up in the tunnel I bet it stays 25 pounds lighter since the hole is covered in.
The stiffened up suspension along with the coupler block really keeps the skis down in steep Climbs up the twisty mountain trails even braking trail it has a real planted solid feel to it.
That along with the wide ski stance makes it go where you point it at any time. Without the sway bar it seems to have way less tendency to tip ----don't ask me why just try it.
You will have to pre-load the spring on the stock shocks to the upper end
with the left one notch less tight than the right.
It seemed to always drag down the rpm in deep snow and didn't give the rider a lot of confidence in its ability to spin the track. After tightening up the secondary it ****s around 11600 to 11900 rpm and feels and sounds way better.
The sled gets around way better than before since the suspension actually holds it up and the engine revs higher.
The only downfall is it does not carve as well as before ( I made it to stable for my liking) but she Loves it so I win no more complaints.
Cheers............
.
