GUNNAR KILLER tether???

[MotoPsycho]

An alternator driven by an internal combustion engine is combined with a trigger signal generator for generator voltage signals used to trigger the breakerless ignition system of the engine. The alternator includes a flywheel having a rim carrying a plurality of main permanent magnets for inducing voltage waveforms in main generating coils located on a stator core positioned adjacent the rotor. The trigger signal generator comprises a triggering magnet and coil assembly located adjacent the path of a flux varying member residing radially inwardly of the path of movement of the main magnets. The production of spurious trigger signals in the trigger coil by the leakage flux of the main magnets is suppressed by both a magnetic shunt, physically positioned between the triggering magnet and coil assembly and the path of the main magnets, providing a lower reluctance path for the leakage flux which path bypasses the triggering magnet and coil assembly and by constructing the flux varying member and the triggering magnet and coil assembly in such a form as to cause the induction in the trigger coil of voltage pulses which occur simultaneously with and counteract such spurious signals.


Easy way to find it is to use a light tester and with the sled running test each of the 5 wires. The one we are looking for will kill the motor when you touch it with the light tester.
http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaSnow.asp?Type=13&A=352&B=38

UUUUNNNGGHHH

 

[bobp]

My new Gunnar Kill Switch comes in Monday the 9th. Tuesday I mount it cut the Yamaha wiring sheath but stop early and don't wire it in. Wednesday the 11th I start watching this thread. Instead of finishing the job I go into hold mode and decide I'll burn up 45 minutes renewing my XM radio subscription. Thursday the morning after I renew my subscription I find out XM is probably on the verge of filing bankruptcy.

I thought $77 was a good deal for one year but not if they shut down. Maybe I should buy some GM stock on Friday the 13th to finish out my week at 0 & 3.

I've already cut the Gunnar wires to slide them under the steering post so I can't return it, sounds like a throw away, or put it on break down and then return it as defective. Looks like a Pingel is in my future.

Bob

 

[WingNutRacing]

oh

Well,,, yep.. Got it!










Just ordered a Pingel......

What I should have done in the first place........

 

[ruffryder]

I've already cut the Gunnar wires to slide them under the steering post so I can't return it, sounds like a throw away, or put it on break down and then return it as defective. Looks like a Pingel is in my future.

Bob

Or just install it and be fine.. I have 4 rides on mine (I know not much) but it works. If it doesn't, then I will just cut the wires and use the key only... No biggie to finish out a day of riding like that..

 

[WingNutRacing]

yep

Already had that day, didn't have to cut any wires though, the unit worked to keep the sled running, but just wouldn't kill it when the tether was pulled..

 

[obile]

Or just install it and be fine.. I have 4 rides on mine (I know not much) but it works. If it doesn't, then I will just cut the wires and use the key only... No biggie to finish out a day of riding like that..

careful with that idea! i found mine by smell. the time it took me to unbolt and remove the headlight pod and find the hot smell the solid state thing was still hot enough to burn my hand. the wires in the rubber junction box under the headligt were all hot. any longer and i think the insulation on the surrounding wires would have melted. REAL BIGGIE imo!!!!!

 

[obile]

An alternator driven by an internal combustion engine is combined with a trigger signal generator for generator voltage signals used to trigger the breakerless ignition system of the engine. The alternator includes a flywheel having a rim carrying a plurality of main permanent magnets for inducing voltage waveforms in main generating coils located on a stator core positioned adjacent the rotor. The trigger signal generator comprises a triggering magnet and coil assembly located adjacent the path of a flux varying member residing radially inwardly of the path of movement of the main magnets. The production of spurious trigger signals in the trigger coil by the leakage flux of the main magnets is suppressed by both a magnetic shunt, physically positioned between the triggering magnet and coil assembly and the path of the main magnets, providing a lower reluctance path for the leakage flux which path bypasses the triggering magnet and coil assembly and by constructing the flux varying member and the triggering magnet and coil assembly in such a form as to cause the induction in the trigger coil of voltage pulses which occur simultaneously with and counteract such spurious signals.


Easy way to find it is to use a light tester and with the sled running test each of the 5 wires. The one we are looking for will kill the motor when you touch it with the light tester.
http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaSnow.asp?Type=13&A=352&B=38

whoa! talk about over complicating something so simple. get a normally closed tether wire int kill switch done!! 1 beer job max...

 

[MotoPsycho]

1 beer job max...

There is NO SUCH JOB!!!!

 

[obile]

There is NO SUCH JOB!!!!

well yea ya got me on that one! takes me 2 beers just to get the cover off the sled and another to open the tool box....

 

[MotoPsycho]

I think I may have figured out the problem with the melting tethers, but I need to know how you guys are using these.

How many of you that have had them melt use them to shut off your sled with it frequently, and leave the clip out for extended periods of time... kinda using it like a kill switch...??

 

[paulharris]

I put a gunnar killer on my turbo yamaha and it was a piece of junk.....lasted one ride and it was fried! replaced with a standard red cap lanyard and no problems!

 

[obile]

I think I may have figured out the problem with the melting tethers, but I need to know how you guys are using these.

How many of you that have had them melt use them to shut off your sled with it frequently, and leave the clip out for extended periods of time... kinda using it like a kill switch...??

never pulled mine other than when i first put it on to test it. it just gets so hot while riding you can smell it cooking....

 

[MTdream]

got my tether from ulmerracing.com (srxspec on here) and he recommends using the brown brown/white wires, and is a very easy job...

no issues at all with my tether on my Nytro...

 

[tomx]

I think I may have figured out the problem with the melting tethers, but I need to know how you guys are using these.

How many of you that have had them melt use them to shut off your sled with it frequently, and leave the clip out for extended periods of time... kinda using it like a kill switch...??

Think this was the root of my problem. I actually was out in a play area one day leaving my key on but pulling the tether off. My sled was sitting for 10-15 minutes at time at points. Thats when everything started to go south.

 

[paulharris]

never used my gunnar for kill switch either....installed it and tested it once....fried itself on first ride.

put the standard red rubber cap one for old arctic cat on and it worked great for 2 years.

 

[MotoPsycho]

That's what I was getting at. The module in these has 2 resistors that basically "absorb" the current when the tether is triggered.

Running current to ground generally creates heat . Kinda like a toaster... oh wait, EXACTLY like a toaster!

The next issue I have seen on several occasions is wiring them backwards. It is imperative that the current enters and leaves the switch properly. Otherwise, there is current constantly being bled to ground... again.... a toaster.

I have well over 200 hours of use on mine. Never any issues - but then again, I use the key to shut off the sled rather than the tether... and it's wired right.

 

[WingNutRacing]

?

Mine was wired right, I made sure of that. I tested it once, worked perfectly. Went out riding, pulled up to everybody, pulled the cord,,,,,NOTHIN? Not fried, just not working. I noticed when I put it on that when I would pull the unit out to put the clip back in and have the sled run, it only had to go about a 1/16th and would give the sled power. This didn't seem right but it worked,,,,, once or twice, then,,,,, no more?

Seems like these units have more than one issue workin against them.

Waste of $50 if you ask me...

 

[ruffryder]

Dang, where the f was this thread during the summer? Could of saved a little hassle... Oh well, interesting info and at least it is out here for people to find now.

careful with that idea! i found mine by smell. the time it took me to unbolt and remove the headlight pod and find the hot smell the solid state thing was still hot enough to burn my hand. the wires in the rubber junction box under the headligt were all hot. any longer and i think the insulation on the surrounding wires would have melted. REAL BIGGIE imo!!!!!

true.... I guess I didn't understand how / why they were failing..

 

[ruffryder]

Think this was the root of my problem. I actually was out in a play area one day leaving my key on but pulling the tether off. My sled was sitting for 10-15 minutes at time at points. Thats when everything started to go south.

Explains your dead battery too, if you left it off for a couple of days using the tether...

 

[modsledr]

Just curious if the guys having issues retained the stock kill switch?

I eliminated the kill switch when I installed mine. 15 rides on it so far this year and no issues.

I may get a Pingle anyway...they look cool!!