GUNNAR KILLER tether???

[WingNutRacing]

My Gunnar Killer tether quit working on the first ride??????
All the wiring is good, when the tether is pulled,,,,,,, it doesn't die?

Can you rebuild these???

 

[obile]

nope they are junk! they are a normally open switch with a solid state setup to convert it to normally closed. had one on my apex for one ride and the solid state thing boiled apart.

 

[ruffryder]

wow... anyone else see one of these melt?

 

[modsledr]

No issues with mine...no issues with the one I put on my Rev either.

Obile, sounds like maybe something wasn't wired correctly for it to do that.

 

[WingNutRacing]

wiring

Mine worked perfectly for half a day. Checked the wiring, everything was good, unplugged the wiring, sled dies, wiring plugged in, sled runs, pull tether,,,,,,,, nothin,,,,, sled still runs?? It must be inside the unit, maybe I got a bad one?

 

[ruffryder]

No issues with mine...no issues with the one I put on my Rev either.

Obile, sounds like maybe something wasn't wired correctly for it to do that.

tomMTX had one do that recently..... though I installed it...

Mine works good, well for the 4 rides on have with it...

 

[tomx]

I concur, solid state thingy is asscakes. Witness the meltage! Worst is I can't get the smell out of my sled now.

This little bastard caused a whole slew of problems for me, final straw was my last ride out, ECU got all cranky and started throwing up error code 81 (Handwarmer short) and then my sled sputtered and died. Turn the key, all the power goes out. Once I disconnected the tether and closed the circuit by twisting the stock wires together it fired right up. For now I've wired back in the stock kill switch.

Dammit. Nothing like doing electric work in a snow storm whilst you get razzed by all your bro's on Arctic Cats and they climb circles around you.

 

[pinnedunderdoo#3]

a old cat tether will work just find on those yamahas.

 

[obile]

No issues with mine...no issues with the one I put on my Rev either.

Obile, sounds like maybe something wasn't wired correctly for it to do that.

the gunnar for a rev is a normally open switch and will be just fine. the problem occurs in the solid state setup on the n/c one. it uses solid state circuitry to make the n/o switch into a n/c one. it can only be hooked up one way and it was done right. just cooked itself as others have done as well. just the wrong design for the battery ignition sleds and atv. the cat style switch is trouble free. no solid state stuff to fry...

 

[happyhour]

Another kill switch to look at is the pro armor, http://www.proarmor.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=49_501&products_id=597 wire it into the trigger wire. A little more involved but it is a very nice kill switch .

 

[MotoPsycho]

I have a gunnar, and have had ZERO problems with it.

 

[thinksnow]

Exact same thing happened to mine. Everything was working fine for 20 miles. I was cruising across a field and the sled sputtered and died. I restarted it and took off. I went to get off the sled a mile or so later and the tether being pulled did nothing. That same little black thing was partially melted and stunk REALLY bad. The smell is finally getting better after two weeks.LOL

I got a replacement from the dealer and asked him to try and sell it for me. Not worth taking a chance and trusting in a tether just to have it fail.

I am going to a different setup after this trip.

 

[WingNutRacing]

Pro armor????

Can you ge that one in a NORMALLY CLOSED setup, looks like the same old normally open switch. If I was looking for a normally open setup, I would have about a thousand options, this NORMALLY CLOSED stuff is a pain in the arse! Might just have to break down and get a Pingel....

 

[obile]

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/hc01.asp
http://www.fastbygast.com/catagories/Products/Description/KillSwitch.asp
1st one is made of aluminum second one is made of plastic ,its the one i have. pretty fool proof and straight forward. both are rebuildable. pingel is also good bu a little more $$$$ also, the pro armour doesnotcome in a normally closed setup

 

[WingNutRacing]

obile

I talked to the MPS racing guys, they said there tether is not really made for colder, or wet conditions, not much weatherproofing in it. I also asked them about the tether performing in an "over the handlebars" dismount, they said it's probably not the best for that, may break..

I knew that Pro Armor didn't come in a NORMALLY CLOSED setup.............

If I actully had a choice, and needed a NORMALLY OPEN setup, I would use the one I used while I was racing,,,,,, Pro Design, worked flawlessly for years. Yeah, great tether, but there again, DO NOT MAKE A NORMALLY CLOSED setup.

I would use one of those old arctic cat button tethers, but man those are garbage too...

Gonna have to drop the coin and go Pingel?????

I have Gunnar's warranty dept's. number, I call them tommorow. I'll let ya know what they say.

 

[spooner187]

same thing

same thing happened to me. I wired up a normal 5 pin relay i dont think its related but my dash popped its fuse and my tail light quit working. at least with a normal relay i can get one anywhere. and as long as the tether is hooked on the relay shouldn't affect anything just a closed circuit then when the tether gets pulled i use the power to energize the relay to open the circuit. I just use the gunnar tether as a switch on the ground side of the relay.

 

[autopro]

Seadog tether

I just bought a tether system made by seadog marine.They have 2 types,#420487 for closed system(nytro)or #420486 open.They come with a cord style lanyard or order accordian style #420489extra.The cost of switch with lanyard is only about$20.00 USD.I sold a open style for Polaris and so far has worked very well.I am going to put one on my Nytro and will let you know how it works.This is a bolt in style.
Autopro

 

[happyhour]

Can you ge that one in a NORMALLY CLOSED setup, looks like the same old normally open switch. If I was looking for a normally open setup, I would have about a thousand options, this NORMALLY CLOSED stuff is a pain in the arse! Might just have to break down and get a Pingel....

yes you can get them in a normally closed . one wire would go to ground the other to the white trigger wire .

here is a picture of it on my apex

 

[WingNutRacing]

white trigger wire???

What exactly is your white trigger wire?? where is it normally routed to,,, kill switch???

 

[happyhour]

What exactly is your white trigger wire?? where is it normally routed to,,, kill switch???

An alternator driven by an internal combustion engine is combined with a trigger signal generator for generator voltage signals used to trigger the breakerless ignition system of the engine. The alternator includes a flywheel having a rim carrying a plurality of main permanent magnets for inducing voltage waveforms in main generating coils located on a stator core positioned adjacent the rotor. The trigger signal generator comprises a triggering magnet and coil assembly located adjacent the path of a flux varying member residing radially inwardly of the path of movement of the main magnets. The production of spurious trigger signals in the trigger coil by the leakage flux of the main magnets is suppressed by both a magnetic shunt, physically positioned between the triggering magnet and coil assembly and the path of the main magnets, providing a lower reluctance path for the leakage flux which path bypasses the triggering magnet and coil assembly and by constructing the flux varying member and the triggering magnet and coil assembly in such a form as to cause the induction in the trigger coil of voltage pulses which occur simultaneously with and counteract such spurious signals.


Easy way to find it is to use a light tester and with the sled running test each of the 5 wires. The one we are looking for will kill the motor when you touch it with the light tester.
http://216.37.204.206/xtremepowersports/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaSnow.asp?Type=13&A=352&B=38