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Grrrrunk grunk grunk unk unk....

Whether you like it or not, it is true.

Obviously true, but helpful here, not at all... This place is full of internet tough guys who feel it is their duty to make snide commentary. Ahh dont get me started. But the point is (for me) that I didn't see anywhere in the manual where it says your new Polaris will ratchet out of the box Only when braking aggressively. So once again thanks to those who contribute positively and helped myself others who read this thread learn something about it and where to look to find solutions to fixing it.

Looking at front of coolers for black marks, great tip that i didnt see in the manual.

And others as well, lots of good stuff
 
I disagree about his comment not being helpful, it might be snide, but it is provoking. I have owned Polaris sleds since '98 and reading the manual on my '12 reminded me about a couple things. In general, there are way too many threads on here that could be eliminated if guys would just read a manual.
 
I disagree about his comment not being helpful, it might be snide, but it is provoking. I have owned Polaris sleds since '98 and reading the manual on my '12 reminded me about a couple things. In general, there are way too many threads on here that could be eliminated if guys would just read a manual.

I agree with you. I would take it a step farther. Buy or get a shop manual and read it! There is a huge amount of valuable info on this site, but many are too lazy to become a student of their equipment, instead they just post here. This is a great site for info, but sometimes there is a lot of good info lost in the noise.
 
I agree with you. I would take it a step farther. Buy or get a shop manual and read it! There is a huge amount of valuable info on this site, but many are too lazy to become a student of their equipment, instead they just post here. This is a great site for info, but sometimes there is a lot of good info lost in the noise.

Another reason to have this type of knowledge is the need to fix stuff in the backcountry. Knowing the details will better enable you get issues taken care of when they first pop up and help to prevent further damage in some cases.
 
here is a pic of mine,right off the truck.I thought the track was way to tight so had to ask around and read 3/8-1/2" with 10lbs in the manual...so my question is now do u think i should ride it like that or tighten it a bit?Thinking with where it's at the track may ratchet now and it will stretch a bit more then ratchet worse.What ya think?..Thanks

DSCF1272.jpg
 
Sounds like you guys got it figured out, from your experience level.
And I agree there are too many threads that cover the same topic because people are lazy, not the case here gentlemen.
I did my snowest searches and due diligence, found no great answers, and decided to post up the question and hey guess what, it helped:)
Especially helpful when you are on your first season with a new sled and none of your buddies ride Polaris.

This post helped me and I'll bet another guy or two learn some things that are not in the owner's manual (which I have read) Just got the other Manual which has already helped me in many ways. A manual that many people that ride these snowmobiles will never have, yet again making posts like this helpful.

Thanks to you "Polaris Old Timers" and please continue to chime in, this place would be worth a lot less without you. We can debate on whether the side commentary is worth a sheet anytime. :boxing:

It also could be that I'm just PMS'ing because the snow is still pretty weak.
 
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here is a pic of mine,right off the truck.I thought the track was way to tight so had to ask around and read 3/8-1/2" with 10lbs in the manual...so my question is now do u think i should ride it like that or tighten it a bit?Thinking with where it's at the track may ratchet now and it will stretch a bit more then ratchet worse.What ya think?..Thanks
tighten it..and you may need to do so on your ride..easy way to tell..if when climbing something steep/deep and it ratchets the drivers..stop and put one full turn in each rear adjuster bolt..repeat till it stops ratcheting..this will keep you till you get home and can hang 10 pds on it and check it the right way...
 
that looks about right to me, with the plan to tighten as it streches. but bring up another question, should the 10lbs weight be hung from the center of the track or from each side?

pv
 
here is a pic of mine,right off the truck.I thought the track was way to tight so had to ask around and read 3/8-1/2" with 10lbs in the manual...so my question is now do u think i should ride it like that or tighten it a bit?Thinking with where it's at the track may ratchet now and it will stretch a bit more then ratchet worse.What ya think?..Thanks

Since it's brand new, I would definitely tighten it to the tight end of the spec, as it will stretch. Ratcheting can actually tear the nubs on the track and make it more suseptable to ratcheting in the future.
 
Rotor looks like this, wear on the top edge of the rotor lobes?
The lever is very tight, I can get the parking brake to the first detent not the second. Figured when it broke in it would be fine.

59de6e04.jpg


2daee0b3.jpg
this looks pretty crappy do the pro brakes all look like there mounted wrong ?
 
I have not ridden my Pro yet but on my dragon if I ran the track loose it would trench and wouldn't get on top of the snow very well. The only time it would ratchet is while braking downhill. If the track is loose when it exits the drivers it shoots straight down which affects the attack angle. I always run my track at factory settings.
 
My first Pro, so go easy. Sled sounds like it's grating something when I brake aggressively or lock the track up only... not under any acceleration. Did it from the first ride.

Tightened the track once already over the initial set up, but I'm coming off years on M's so it's totally different tension wise. Also re finger tightened chain tensioner per owners manual.

3 rides 75 miles on sled.

Guessing either the track slipping over drivers or something in the chaincase?

Tighter on the track? possibly something else? brake system? What do you think?

I rode mine for the first time yesterday and it is doing the same thing. The clunk is from the secondary but the grinding is from the brake system. Sounds identical to yours including the parking brake issue. I will delve into mine as well and see if I can figure it out.
 
Both our eleven pros also had a slight "dragging" and whine on the brake rotor. I pulled both brake levers and ground off a little material where it acts on the master cylinder piston. No more dragging and way easier to set the parking brake.

Running a PC with involutes only at stock tension, no ratcheting. Stock track ratcheted bad on the brakes down hill when the track went through it's initial stretch. Factory tension seems too tight, but works well.
 
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