Grrrrunk grunk grunk unk unk....

[FCR112]

My first Pro, so go easy. Sled sounds like it's grating something when I brake aggressively or lock the track up only... not under any acceleration. Did it from the first ride.

Tightened the track once already over the initial set up, but I'm coming off years on M's so it's totally different tension wise. Also re finger tightened chain tensioner per owners manual.

3 rides 75 miles on sled.

Guessing either the track slipping over drivers or something in the chaincase?

Tighter on the track? possibly something else? brake system? What do you think?

 

[glassman]

How does the brake rotor and pads look? does it only happen when you are slowing down?

 

[skibreeze]

I'd think that the track is too loose.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

is it a clunking noise? the electric reverse helixs will clunk when you stab the brakes and then get back on the gas..thats normal..last season there were quite a few pro's with a brake pad rattle when using the brakes..heard of a few that had a pad squeak as well..might put the track up in the air and check the rotor for wobble, then pull the pads off and sand them down with a 60-80 grit peice of sandpaper..also make darn sure your track tension is tight(look at the frt of the tunnel right at the frt edge of the coolers, a loose track will rub and leave black marks on the coolers..)also I have yet to prep any polaris over the last 3 yrs that didnt have a low chaincase oil level..seems alot of dealers arnt adding any oil to them and they get sold just a bit low....

 

[ENDO1]

Make sure the chain is adjusted right, have seen two that had not been checked by the dealer and were set to lose from the factory, one even broke one the first ride. The one that broke was not on a PRO but the other one was.

 

[FCR112]

Rotor looks like this, wear on the top edge of the rotor lobes?
The lever is very tight, I can get the parking brake to the first detent not the second. Figured when it broke in it would be fine.

 

[FCR112]

Yes, black marks on the front of coolers...

 

[glassman]

I doubt that it is the track slipping as the pros have a center extrovert so you would have to be really loose. My guess is it is something in the chaincase or the brake system. The rotoe seems fine on the front, but what about the back?

 

[greasemonkey3406]

The tracks on these things loosen up a lot on the first few miles. Had to tighten up the track on mine a few times. If its only during braking and when the track is locked up I would be thats what it is.

 

[FCR112]

the back side of the rotor looks the same, without the outer line in it.
just harder to take a photo into the mirror

 

[FCR112]

So if Black marks on front of coolers=Too Loose then my sled's a whore...

What's safe to mix with the stock chaincase oil to top it off?

 

[greasemonkey3406]

So if Black marks on front of coolers=Too Loose then my sled's a whore...

What's safe to mix with the stock chaincase oil to top it off?

If you dont have any chaincase oil I heard that people put automatic transmission fluid in the chaincase. But I dont know if it will mix well with the oil thats already there.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I would use any brand chaincase oil..not a fan of atf..but I know others have used it with with no issues...personally..sounds like the track is too loose..the dragons with a loose track would climb the drivers and make a vibrating/grinding noise anytime you let off the gas..I think that is what you are experiencing. put 1 full turn in each adjuster and ride it..still does it stop and add another full turn till it goes away or its obvious the track is over tight...

 

[mountainhorse]

The track on the PRO's do ratchet unless they are kept at factory tension specs.

When they ratchet they make a hell of a noise because the track is then crashing into the bulkhead.

 

[glassman]

Factory specs on track tension? Something like 1" of sag with 10 lbs pressure at the rear scissor link I think. It is in the owners manual.

 

[FCR112]

Yeah thanks guys,
It's gotta be too loose. These tracks are WAY tighter than cats get away with.
Learning Polarry's ways...

I guess that brings up the whole driver issue, not gunna do it.

Got the evols all around and holz arms on, time for another test run.

Appreciate the input.


And yes AK...Chaincase not topped. Where's NapaMatt, I need a part number for some chaincase oil

 

[Rick!]

Factory specs on track tension? Something like 1" of sag with 10 lbs pressure at the rear scissor link I think. It is in the owners manual.

I just read my manual today - page 102: 3/8-1/2" sag with 10lbs at the rear scissor.

a tad over 1" of sag with 10lbs and the track will ratchet.

Like MH reminded us a while ago, there is a ton of info in the owner's manual that would answer a lot of the questions posted here.

 

[FCR112]

It's a 10 lb weight 16" in front of the rear idler shaft... 3/8"-1/2" between the rail slider and track...

.
Like MH reminded us a while ago, there is a ton of info in the owner's manual that would answer a lot of the questions posted here.

Comments like this speak volumes.

 

[skibreeze]

It's a 10 lb weight 16" in front of the rear idler shaft... 3/8"-1/2" between the rail slider and track...




Comments like this speak volumes.

Whether you like it or not, it is true.

 

[pura vida]

personally i like to run 3/4 of an inch 16" from the rear axle with 10lbs suspended. i would also recommend cutting that pos center extro polaris puts on off of the drive shaft. it is truly useless and causes more problems where it is suppose to help. did this on my 09 dragon and am running involute drivers with a PC only on my pro. i never ratchet.

pv