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Gripper ski design makes the PRO useless

Unfortunately I don't think the CnA rubbers will work as the Grippers have a slot with raised edges for their own. If I was thinking I would have checked this before I put the new skis on.

On another note the it takes two people to get the CnA's on the spindle as you have to squish the rubber into the saddle while twisting the ski to get the bolt through. The result is rubber is tight against the base of the spindle so the whole ski is level when off the ground - much better design.
 
Just the phone number on their website... the gal there was very helpful.

My rubber stops arrived today... they are different in cross section from the stock ones... they create a different angle with the ski which would be pointed down more at free-hang.


Hope to have them installed here in a couple of days ... gotta pay the bills with "bread and butter" work first!!



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Anxiously awaiting your install, MH. (So I can order mine) Please keep me posted.
 
Unfortunately I don't think the CnA rubbers will work as the Grippers have a slot with raised edges for their own. If I was thinking I would have checked this before I put the new skis on.

On another note the it takes two people to get the CnA's on the spindle as you have to squish the rubber into the saddle while twisting the ski to get the bolt through. The result is rubber is tight against the base of the spindle so the whole ski is level when off the ground - much better design.

In order for the ski rubbers to do any good with any ski they need to be tight as in AKmclean's second paragraph. Always have and will need to be.

A 2x4 available for getting the bolt lined up for the inside of the ski works well.
Start bolt from the outside of the ski towards the inside, with the 2x4 under the inside edge of the ski, kneel on spindle until the holes line up (may require putting some directional english on the ski as well), with a soft hammer tap bolt thru, so as not to damage the threads, install nut, torque and repeat for other side.

My gut feeling tells me that either shimming the stock rubber up or using an aftermarket rubber will both accomplish the desired effect. The key is the effort needed to compress the rubber so that it works as needed for our demanding riding style. The rubbers were engineered for the flat land by flat landers, a shim at a minimum is needed for mountain riding.
 
The problem with the stock rubbers is that they tear too easily, even with 2 of them. I had a ski go full vertical this weekend. I need to look into the C&A possibly.
 
Some have NO problems ... other are having issues... Depends on snow conditions and style of riding IMO.

Some of the top riders have the "folding" problem and their technique is pretty darn good.

Like Steven Darcy (S.Diddy) gives in his great description.

BTW... I ordered a pair of the C&A Rubber stops today from C&A... $10 each... worth a try.

what model has the blue grippers?
 
So has anyone successfully installed the C&A rubbers into the stock gripper skis?
 
So has anyone successfully installed the C&A rubbers into the stock gripper skis?

I run the Pro skis on a rev with wide Doo rubbers. They are much stiffer and work great, you do need to grind down the two small ridges so the surface is flat.Best ski ive ever run and I have all the aftermarket mt. skis
 
I run the Pro skis on a rev with wide Doo rubbers. They are much stiffer and work great, you do need to grind down the two small ridges so the surface is flat.Best ski ive ever run and I have all the aftermarket mt. skis

Stock rev rubbers right?
 
Unfortunately I don't think the CnA rubbers will work as the Grippers have a slot with raised edges for their own. If I was thinking I would have checked this before I put the new skis on.

On another note the it takes two people to get the CnA's on the spindle as you have to squish the rubber into the saddle while twisting the ski to get the bolt through. The result is rubber is tight against the base of the spindle so the whole ski is level when off the ground - much better design.

I wasn't lying about the rubbers when you picked up the skis huh!? Those things are a PITA. I do 50 sets or so a year by myself and every single one is a fight. But, I've never ruined a C&A rubber on my MTX's, and I've been using these skis for 3 seasons since they came out. Multiple sets of skis but never replaced the rubbers once. That's durability.

On a side note do you agree that the MTX is a better all around ski? Holds the sidehill line tighter and allows a higher-speed entry into downhill turns IMO. Not to mention the amount of extra float in the front
 
Stock rev rubbers right?

yes stock doo rubbers are much stiffer. Grind the two ridges down flat then add a square piece of belting to raise to correct height and the work flawless.Theres a pic on Doo talk under Ski test of my install.
 
Byeatts...

To be clear... this is a gripper ski on a REV Ski-Doo chassis sled??



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have them on a Full custom 07 race 880 Rev with drop- belt drive 156x3 inch and also on a stock 2011 XP. These skis after owning every aftermarket Mt ski flat rock. Best ski out there for extreme mt. riding.
 
C&A Rubber

To use the C&A rubber stoppers on the stock gripper skis on a pro do you have to grind down the plastic ridges on not? Some clarification would be great from some guys who have accomplished this would be great! Thanks!
 
I didnt make it to the dealer in time this week, so I just made a shim out of 1/4" x 1" aluminum flatbar and stuffed it under the stock worn out rubber. Put 33 miles on Sat. and didn't have any more problems. I'm not sure I would be able to get the ski back on if the rubbers were new. I would like to try the C&A rubbers. Don't like the idea of cutting the ribs out of the skis. I think taking a hot knife to the bottom of the rubbers and making two grooves for the ribs would be a better option.
 
Snowdog,

I think that a router in a table with a sharp bit would get the job done on the C&A rubbers as well... I'm going to give that a try

I might be wrong, but I think you are in for a very rude awakening. I hope you don't end up bloody and unable to ride.

At a minimum I would freeze it first. If you insist on trying this, I would screw it to a contoured 2x4 for a handle to keep your extremities clear of the bit. Freeze it as cold as you can get it.

Or as above with a good sharp carbide blade on a table saw or in a vise and use a skill saw.

I have too much scar tissue on my hands from attempting just such things to condone that practice! and I would consider myself a professional in that area.
 
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TOP NOTCH advise LH....

Saftey sould always be the priority when making posts.

Take that off my list of things to do.. I'll be going at it from another direction.

MH.
 
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