Its been proven that the heat isn't coming from the brake. If you measure the temp on the brake disc and the top pulley the top pulley is hotter, or so I've read here.
Good bye quick drive.
- Thread starter sledheadd
- Start date
Ahh I see, I was thinking of the CMX design.
Yes, the CMX is the way to go, its a piece of art plus you get the drop and roll feature as well as the brake on the track shaft and a track shaft that won't falll apart. I would also rather have the tensioner on the inside like the CMX.
The top gear seams to get hot without using the brake at all while the bottom gear is cool enough to keep your hand on it.
So far so good. Nock, Nock, Nock on wood
The top gear seams to get hot without using the brake at all while the bottom gear is cool enough to keep your hand on it.
So far so good. Nock, Nock, Nock on wood
there are at least 4 turbo sleds up here in AK running the C3 that are on there second season with no problems. I havent seen any problems with mine (non turbo) and have checked temps many times. My only complaint is the blue release agent that comes off the belt over time. I don't know if its the best mod I've done, but I like it. I all ready had the Avid case prior and there kit for it went right in.
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I've personally seen 2 QD belts go. Heard of plenty more within my core riding group. We ride hard, jump, boondock etc. and it takes its toll, but this is definitely a weak spot. My closest riding buddy, and the hardest guy on sleds I have ever seen was still on his stock belt until around 800-900 miles while another good friend of mine only got about 350-400 miles before losing a belt. I am thinking either chaincase or CMX, towing isn't fun where we ride.
Heat?
What heat from the breaking system? I dont use the breaks hardly at all when riding. Is it just heat from the cooling system?
What heat from the breaking system? I dont use the breaks hardly at all when riding. Is it just heat from the cooling system?
I thought they just released this Pro setup? Or are the 4 you speak of not on Pros?
After blowing my belt the first time I knew I wanted to change the belt drive for an after market one. I went with the cmx belt drive. I couldn't be more happy with the belt drive system. The tensioner is awesome as well as the belt it self. With the cmx belt drive you fix two flaws with one upgrade, the belt drive system, as well, as the track shaft, (no more special collar), and no more special alignment tool to get the belt on. Just undo the tensioner and slip the old belt off and the new one back on. The machining and craftsmanship on the cmx is amazing. And top it all off you won't find a better guy to deal with then Mark at CMX. The cmx belt drive IMO is a lot more efficient that the stock Polaris belt drive. Comparing my sled to my wife's sled it much easier drag out of the garage or trailer. Of just coasting down a hill. And you can easily change gear ratios. And if your belt brakes you still have brakes with the rotor being on the bottom shaft. Everything was carefully thoughtout with this system!
P
paulharris
Well-known member
agreed, the CMX is the way to go. problem with the c3 is that you still have to run the stock driveshaft and if it has runout which most of them do, you are only fixing half the problem, and you will still have issues. sucks to have to spend 2 grand to fix polaris' Fu*k up on this drive system.
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C3 PRO RMK Belt Drive System's
This is just from my memory so I can not guarantee it's accuracy.
The one for the 11'-12' PRO RMK has been out for a little more than a year. The 13' system was just released to the public about a moth ago.
On a side note the system's for the EDGE, IQ, and IQR were released mid-summer / early Fall '12.
This is just from my memory so I can not guarantee it's accuracy.
The one for the 11'-12' PRO RMK has been out for a little more than a year. The 13' system was just released to the public about a moth ago.
On a side note the system's for the EDGE, IQ, and IQR were released mid-summer / early Fall '12.
Some guys determined that it was heat from the jackshaft bearing, that caused the top pulley to heat up. Which could mean that it is heat from the driveshaft bearing that heats up the bottom pulley. Either same or similar sealed bearings for both the chaincase RMK and the quick drive RMK. Except the chaincase RMK bearings are constantly cooled by the circulating oil.
the belt drive for the avid case on the Pro came out before the kit for the pro replacement.
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It's $600.00 according to thier website.
this is the theory i'm going with as well. confirmed it many times by riding and touching the brake and still seeing heat in the upper pulley (brake was cool in comparison). I also am very easy on the gas after prolong sitting sessions - i can actually hear the pitch of the belt change after sitting for awhile (and heat soaking one spot on the belt). A few lapse around my riding spot at partial throttle and the pitch of the belt-wine goes back to normal. I also found my bolt backing out on the upper pulley, but a little drop of lock-tite and pen-marking for quick checking and its not moved since then. There's clearly issues with the design, but if your careful it will last even with plenty of full throttle pummelling. you just need to keep your eye on it.
The QD runs an 11mm pitch and a tooth profile reminiscent of the ancient HTD profile.
The C3 uses a 8mm pitch and a GT2 tooth profile. Only similarity are the 36mm width.
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