Going from 80g to 85g primary weights.

[Needspeed]

What changes will I see if I change my primary weights from stock 80 gram to stock 85g weights. on a 09 m1000. I've never really messed with a primary clutch before. I was thinking about also replacing the helix with a less steep angle. But I'm pretty clueless to be honest.

 

[mgdjeepster]

What elevation are you running???

 

[winter brew]

What changes will I see if I change my primary weights from stock 80 gram to stock 85g weights. on a 09 m1000. I've never really messed with a primary clutch before. I was thinking about also replacing the helix with a less steep angle. But I'm pretty clueless to be honest.

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

[SledderX]

Will pull less RPM

 

[Needspeed]

I ride from 8k to 11k, I am trying to get the primary to grab onto the belt better. I have been having the typical belt issues, on that subject, my staionary side of the primary is getting hotter than the other side. I'm guessing that is an alignment issue. But even if the alignment is the problem I would still like to know for sure that the primary is grabbing onto the belt.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

Well this could be a very long conversation but if it is shifting its "grabbing "the belt. You goal with clutching should be efficiency for your riding. Adding weight will pull the rpm down. You can buy adjustable weights that will allow you to influence the shift rate by heel or toe loading but I dont think thats where you should start.

 

[Needspeed]

I should reword, i am looking for less slippage on the primary. The primary is getting alot hotter than the secondary. And when the belt came apart the primary. Other than losing rpms what characteristics will change?

 

[SLEDIOT]

You should start with some simple venting in your shock tower and side vents. This might give you what yer looking for before messing with the clutching.Is it clutched for your elevation? If so leave it alone. just my .02

 

[spring snow hero]

are you doing a lot of low/lower speed riding, or are you a on/off the throttle a lot guy?

adding weight without dropping elevation is just going to lower rpms.....not grab better. clean the clutch well, make sure all you rollers and weights can move freely, and that the moveable sheave can move w/o binding......that is the bread and butter on the primary. if it ever worked good and has since stopped, dirt or wear is the problem.

 

[spring snow hero]

are you seeing black streaks on your primary in a certain spot?

 

[Needspeed]

The sled only has 100 miles on it and its on its second belt. I keep the clutches clean I'm to the point that I carry a scotch brite pad and alcohol wipes with me and stop and clean the primary. The secondary stays cool but the primary heats up. I have vents all over and it has helped so far but i also do alot more stoppping and leaving the hood open(hopeing no big gusts of wind decide to tear it off). As far as riding goes I do alot of off and on the throttle, I like big climbs but with the avy danger and the fact that I don't think the belt would last through a long climb, I have avoided it. Nice isn't it buy an M1000 sled "M" is for mountain but I have to stay off them, 1000 must stand for how much money you'll spend in belts per year.

 

[spring snow hero]

I asked about the low/slower speed stuff because that will concentrate more heat on the primary. the tighter the belt radius, the more heat.

when I mentioned clean clutches I was not refering to the faces as much as the sliding surfaces, but with 100 miles I would think the dealer should be getting you dialed in.

 

[JHG]

Dude there is something wrong with the setup on your sled. If you've lost a belt in 100 miles something is wrong. I'm guessing alignment. It's not the sleds fault, it's the person who set it up's fault. If it's stock, look at the clutching chart and see what weights it's supposed to run. Make sure you break in the belt properly. If you only have 100 miles on the sled you really shouldn't have made but a couple full throttle runs on the sled according to cats break in procedures. Wash the belts before you run them, fix your alignment problem and break the belt in properly and I'm sure your issues will go away. One of my riding partners rides an M1000 and he ran all last year on his 08 with 1 belt, about 1200 miles. His 09 this year has about 400 miles on it and still running the belt that came on it.

 

[winter brew]

First, amke sure the alignment is correct. It is normal for the innder sheave to be hotter than the movable sheave (engine heat).
Are you currently overrevving? Underrevving?

 

[Needspeed]

I am working on the alignment. But from what I understand you can only be aligned at one speed so I have to decide what speed I want, I'm thinking just under 50 mph. That should close to my track speed during a climb. I do need to remember to look at the speedo when climbing. Its a two hour drive to geth to a dealer I would trust so I try to do it as much as I can myself. As far as the rpms I'll check the recall on the tach tonight. I don't spend much time looking at the gauge while riding hard, I was in a pretty bad wreck before because I was dialing in some clutching and didn't see a wash coming up.

 

[JHG]

Just order an alignment bar ($25) and set it to the factory spec. I've never heard of setting alignment at a certain speed and I have no idea how you would do that, not to say that you can't but I just have never done it and don't know anyone that has.

 

[Needspeed]

I think the reason that you can only align to one speed is because the secondary is non-floating. At least that is my understanding. I wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me out. I've only been sledding for a few years and the clutching has always intimidated me. But this sled has left me no choice.

 

[RockyMtn.Kris]

I can save you $$$$$$$$$$$. Ready, Alignment, offset, deflection, venting. Gear it down to M8 gearing or lower and switch to the 046 belt! The 060 belt is an exploding, crank busting POS. You are correct on the non-floating secondary, and you can align "at speed" using the black pen trick as others have done. Do all this before you start changing weight and springs and you will get results.

 

[Needspeed]

I can save you $$$$$$$$$$$. Ready, Alignment, offset, deflection, venting. Gear it down to M8 gearing or lower and switch to the 046 belt! The 060 belt is an exploding, crank busting POS. You are correct on the non-floating secondary, and you can align "at speed" using the black pen trick as others have done. Do all this before you start changing weight and springs and you will get results.

I am part of the way there, I have the 046 belt, bd deflection adjuster, tons of venting and more to come as I get time to build and install. I haven't regeared yet but considering it. I just want to hear from others that have done it before I dump another couple hundred bucks. I don't want to turn my sled into a trenching monster.

 

[Woody67]

80 gram weights are correct for you elevation. The 060 production belt is real soft and requires an easy break in 20-25 miles minimum. Not easy to do I know. So as Big Hoe mentioned with only 100 miles on the sled, alot of it should have been breaking in the two belts (stock and spare) Certainly it is not easy to take a new M1000 and not squeeze it hard right away. But any premature abuse of a new belt on a sled with that kind of power is a death sentence for said belt.