getting rid of the 02 sensor "pipe sensor"

[matt159]

Would someone post the GM part number please?

the one in the chart is above is: 12636945
i think it may have been superseded by a new number, but i gave my local gm dealership that number & they had it in a couple days.

 

[Qreiff]

Awww....pardon......saw the part number in the prior graph.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

The probe threads into the bung fine... but the GM connector is not the right one... so you'll have to break out the soldering iron to save yourself $80.

Soldering the connection is probably the right thing to do. But personally I just used some push connectors. I can pack a spare in the pickup and plug and play from their.

Works just fine.

Thunder

 

[Zerrman]

New part number

12643246 thats the replacement numberif anyone needs it. $51.90 from GM dealer.

 

[Mjunkie]

You can get an AC/delco one to replace the gm one for less than that. I just got one shipped to my door for $33 and some change. The AC/delco part# is 213-4759 or 213-4778. I don't know if one is an old number and the other is the new one or what but if you find either of those part numbers it is what you're looking for.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

The temp sensor in the pipe center section is critical for best all-around performance. At temps below @1000f the ecu retards timing to increase ex temp to get pipe up to optimal temp more quickly. If you unplug the sensor the ecu seems to default to max timing but it will take a longer time to get the pipe up to optimal temp for max HP plus you get some annoying blinking dash light. Two guys have come to Dyno tune with some sort of inline resistor to replace a fried sensor that eliminates the blinking light but really goofed up the way the engine ran--both guys wound up cutting the resistors out and made way more HP. The sensors aren't cheap but the sleds do run better with them in place.

This is what I have been guessing at since 09 and Thank you Thank you for the information!!!!

I ran my m1000 stock with egts it ran 1260* at 6-6200rpm and 1157* WOT (no matter how long you held it)
I ran a y-can and it was weak until I got it to hold 1150* wot
then I ran a slp full pipe, it ran good but comes to life when you add enough fuel to hold 1150* wot
then added a bdx intake. Same thing, So these guys running above that in the 1200's+ straight up are loosing.
This is the beauty of running egts stock and then copying the stock ecu expected output. Way more power and torque.
Finally some decent info that backs it up.

 

[Thunder101]

This is what I have been guessing at since 09 and Thank you Thank you for the information!!!!

I ran my m1000 stock with egts it ran 1260* at 6-6200rpm and 1157* WOT (no matter how long you held it)
I ran a y-can and it was weak until I got it to hold 1150* wot
then I ran a slp full pipe, it ran good but comes to life when you add enough fuel to hold 1150* wot
then added a bdx intake. Same thing, So these guys running above that in the 1200's+ straight up are loosing.
This is the beauty of running egts stock and then copying the stock ecu expected output. Way more power and torque.
Finally some decent info that backs it up.

This is what I'm finding right now dialling in my ported twin piped M8 . I searched out this thread because I think the hot egt's are making the pipe senser mess with the map ?? I think. I just keep adding small amounts fuel .

 

[summitbound]

GM12639455 does anyone know if this is within Temp Spec for a 2008 M8