garage shop choices

[LoudHandle]

So now comes the question. I now have the power for my welder which needs 120 amps. I don't really want to hard wire it but it seems to be the only option. Unless someone knows of an affordable single phase 120amp plug and recepticle.

"Affordable" being the key word. What machine needs 120 Amps continuous? I could understand a 120 amp "in rush" but not continuous.

I've tripped a lot of 50 and 75 Amp breakers by getting too aggressive on the pedal at the start, 100 Amp solved that.

I hard wire mine (Miller Syncrowave 250) but with a 35' flexible cord, so I can roll it anywhere in the shop (Single Phase, 100 Amp breaker). Our Miller Dynasty 700 at work is done the same way but with a 50' cord and a Single Phase, 100 Amp Breaker. FWIW

The largest receptacle I've used / bought was 60 Amp and they are at least $300 for the male and female pair (previous job). You can buy many of feet of flexible cord for that. I think mine is four conductor #4 (IIRC). I can look if you want.

 

[joshkoltes]

Mines an old synchrowave 300. It can do 375 wot! Will I ever run it there well Maby if I want to air arc... Because now I can!!

I think I found a set up. Some three phase plugs that I'll just leave one pole empty.

My friend has this same machine and has popped his 80 amp breaker fairly easily
I found a set of these from a buddy
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Meltric-DS100...-Connector-480V-3P-G-/141836668759?nav=SEARCH

 

[BLITZKRIEG]

Acrobatic

 

[joshkoltes]

I'm moving so fast I blurred the picture!

Thanks again for the help! Come back anytime and help hang soffet!

Blitz puttin out the vibe in the back ground


Call blitz door service for all your overhead needs!

 

[joshkoltes]

im am very open to suggestions on how to insulate my celing.

you can see what im dealing with in blitz'z pic. just the 2x6 perlins to the center girder.

im out of time for spray foam, and really not interested in the 3$ a square foot price the guy gave me.

the diy kit is about the same price
https://www.sprayfoamkit.com/spray-foam-insulation/spray-foam-kits-value.html

I could build under whats there and use bats but im sure id have a mold problem.

a google search showed me something called prodex, sounds interesting but it looks to be only like a half inch thick?
http://www.insulation4less.com/default.aspx

 

[xc6rider]

Id do a foam board insulation of some sort. Secure it to under side of the wood.

I used a bunch and found some fasteners i used with long screws for securing them. But, i installed mine on walls...

Its expensive... Around $30 per 4x8 2" thick sheet.

https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444450502427-c-5779.htm?freeFormRowId=

 

[joshkoltes]

Looks alot bigger with that on the wall!

 

[Mafesto]

What is your heat source?

 

[joshkoltes]

I haven't truly decided yet. I have a near full propane tank and a heater that was taken out of the house as option number one. I work at a coal mine where I get free 9000 btu coal as option number three, and I already have a pile of wood for my house so I could just get another wood stove as option number two

 

[joshkoltes]

I wont have the celing spray insulated till spring and the ground is frozen so I can't dig in the LP line till thaw and I cant stand the smell of coal more than twelve hours a day so probably wood and electric but who knows

My next place will be radiant gauranteed

 

[papafinger1]

Any plans to sheet the lid? Could just blow the ceiling in reasonably priced and vent the cap.


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[papafinger1]

Retract that. Saw pic of rafter system. Unfortunately I would spray it. If you heat with lp you will recoup in r-value. Definitely install ceiling fans. Get that heat to the level you want it.


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[joshkoltes]

Yep that's the plan to spray it. Ill probably just leave that exposed too, kind of tacky but $$$. Just got to wait until it warms up. Well its going to be mid fifties on Friday so it might be sooner than I am prepared. I got a quote for 3$ a square foot so that's not so awesome but from what I've researched its the proper way. A friend had tried the false celing thing and blow in with vents but it still sweat and molded so he had to start over.

 

[papafinger1]

If your going to blow in definitely need to seal every hole with can foam caulk the edges and seams and poly the old gal. Helps a lot. Definitely need the moisture/ vapor barrier. Ceiling fan is a must to circulate air and dry things up. I am in the process of shop build and $3/ square in my area is pretty darn cheap.


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[joshkoltes]

Pretty productive couple days and succeeded in my planned schedule

 

[joshkoltes]

My main objective was to finally get all those big items moved out of the center of the floor, SUCCESS!

 

[papafinger1]

Nice job. Looks good


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[joshkoltes]

I was up on the roof today making sure all my screws were tight since I am getting it foamed in the morning. I tell ya what, many of you already know, I had a few screws loose!
Oh man whatever Yahoo's put that together, oh my. Probably fifty misses where they just tried to tighten them into nothing, then the best was the whole Southwest side where they must have ran out of the right screws and just threw whatever leftover screws they had minus the rubber washers. No wonder why it leaked!
I ended up replacing all the extra screws with a poprivet and silicone then added a rubber washer to all that didn't have one, I lost count at 23.
GOOD JOB BILLYBOB

 

[Mafesto]

Roofing is just like sex.
If you want it done right you gotta take matters into your own hands.

 

[Pro-8250]

I haven't truly decided yet. I have a near full propane tank and a heater that was taken out of the house as option number one. I work at a coal mine where I get free 9000 btu coal as option number three, and I already have a pile of wood for my house so I could just get another wood stove as option number two

Burn coal if you want your neighbors to hate you.