FYI TUNNEL RE-ENFORCEMENT PANELS FOR THE PRO RMK!

[srosscojw]

sorry dude, I'm curious why 5052 is a good choice?

what alloy do you think the rest of the tunnel is made from?

5052 is one of the higher strength non-heat-treatable alloys. It has a high fatigue strength and is a good choice for structures subjected to excessive vibration. The alloy has excellent corrosion resistance, particularly in marine atmospheres. The formability of the grade is excellent and in the annealed condition it offers higher strengths than 1100 or 3003 grades.


6061 is a heat-treatable grade widely used in light to medium strength structural applications. The alloy has good corrosion resistance and weldability and possesses good formability in the 0 to T4 tempers. 6061 does lose appreciable strength when welded and it is replaced by the 5000 series alloys where afterweld strength is a prime consideration.

Hope this helps.

 

[poorider]

ah well, good concept either way, good luck with your idea

 

[poorider]

5052 h32 yield strength..28000 psi
6061 t6 yield strength..40000 psi

 

[srosscojw]

friend, I was not trying to bash your choice in alloys, just curious why poster thought choosing a softer alloy would be a better choice over a harder one. The reason "some" of the rest of your sled is made from 5052 is because
A. it is cheap and readily available
B. it takes well to forming
while it's true 5052 does not stress as much as 5086 or 6061 when bent or welded, you have done neither to your plates so that would not really be an issue here.
Please do not tell me 5052 is a stronger material in this application. I'm sure your upgrade is far stronger than polaris' stock offering and I think you have a really good idea here, I was just asking a simple question why someone thought using utility grade aluminum was worth a kudos. I can pull quotes off the net just as easily as you can to misleadingly prove my point as you have just done.
The company I work for sells and works with aluminum every day
Sorry to completely steer your thread off topic but you did just challenge me a bit......

Sorry did not mean to offend or challenge you. Dont know your background nor does it matter. My choice for this product is 5052 because I beleive it is the right choice all things considered. Many people will have many opinions. If you buy my product and it fails I will replace it. I will even cut new ones from 6061 if you so choose. I do not want to start a who is smarter than who debate.

Sincerely Steve

 

[mountainhorse]

The alloy is only as strong as the fastening system.

You could improve the strength by using the LORD-406 adhesive that is used in the bulkhead assy (you will need to work quickly...

If the load is distributed equally across the panel... rather than localized to the rivet locations...the entire assembly becomes "monocoque" and will hold up better.

The 406 is nice because it releases with heat easily.

Here is a thread on the 406

These panels are sweet...Keep up the good work!

 

[srosscojw]

The alloy is only as strong as the fastening system.

You could improve the strength by using the LORD-406 adhesive that is used in the bulkhead assy (you will need to work quickly...

If the load is distributed equally across the panel... rather than localized to the rivet locations...the entire assembly becomes "monocoque" and will hold up better.

The 406 is nice because it releases with heat easily.

Here is a thread on the 406

These panels are sweet...Keep up the good work!

Thanks again MH. I agree that the 406 is a great product and can be added to many applications to add strength. Is it overkill in this application? maybe, maybe not. This becomes a matter of choice, and I agree that adding the adhesive will add even more strength to the repair / re-enforcement. IMO it is insurance and not necessary. Remember when you combine the .100" outer panel with the .063" tunnel and the .080" this section of the tunnel becomes nearly 1/4' thick.

 

[srosscojw]

any one else having any issues with these tunnels yet?

 

[NapaMatt]

None here 960 miles

 

[srosscojw]

ttt

 

[snosub]

It seems that tearing from the end of the slot is the main problem? If so, I think there needs to be a hole drilled right at the end so there isn't a point for the slot/crack to migrate from.

 

[srosscojw]

It seems that tearing from the end of the slot is the main problem? If so, I think there needs to be a hole drilled right at the end so there isn't a point for the slot/crack to migrate from.

Not only does it tear. It creases the tunnel and breaks the factory support off the tunnel. I have sold several panels now so I know this is not an isolated problem.Great idea on drilling the tunnel at the top of the slit. This will help, however it will not be a solution.

 

[srosscojw]

Just got my new warranty tunnel. installed my panels and justed wanted to upload some pictures.

 

[srosscojw]

ttt

 

[Ohmz]

i think this is a wicked i idea....i've been looking around and found this to re-enforce the idea of adding these as well as the factory tunnel stiffeners for your foot area..... http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=429193&st=30 ......there are some good pix on the following pages...

 

[srosscojw]

recently sold several sets to guys who bought these for their 2011 Pro's. Thought id bring this back to the top. Bent or broken tunnels can eat up lots of ride time...

 

[thewhite]

when I did these reinforcments on my dragon neither the dealer ,nor polaris had any issues with them, never an issue with warranty..I have a few sets of these out there on dragons, xp,s and now some pros(just getting ready to proto the 163 pros now)in fact my dealer got a set for one of the assaults they have...but I would check your dealer first for sure.......

I will add this, if you are a big jumper/bump rider, with a bag and a 2.5 on the back you can still buckle the tunnel with just the brace at the suspension mnts...(I did it on my dragon after bracing it with a small reinforcment)the tunnel will fold either right in frt or right behind the braced area..thats why we go the full length of the tunnel and tie to the bulkhead...

What material did you use to make your tunnel renforcement? Steel?? what gauge??

Thanks!!

 

[Mountain800]

Just want to recomend these panels for your new sled. They work great ånd looks good! Had them on my 2011 rmk when the stock reinforsements came of after å while..bent my tunnel... I have ordered å new set for my 2012 rmk and plan on installing them before it hits snow!

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

What material did you use to make your tunnel renforcement? Steel?? what gauge??

Thanks!!

they are aluminum, on this sled(tows sleds to and from my cabin 50 miles from the road) they are a full 1/4 in, added about 10 pds weight for the whole setup...I have done others in lighter guages as well.......

 

[thewhite]

Thanks AKSnowrider, i was thinking to use steel because it will be on an utility sled (widetrak), but i don't know what gauge use maybe 12 gauge. I hope you don't mind, i used your picture to make a template.

 

[nl pro rmk]

If you have had, or are afraid that you may have issues with the tunnel on your PRO directly behind the drop bracket where the top of the rear scissor mounts similar to the attached pictures... I've come up with a fix.

I have designed a re-enforcement panel set that I can ship to you to strengthen this area.

This kit uses all stock rivet hole locations as well as added rivets for extra strength. Stainless rivets will be provided.

I have attached pictures of the prototype panel set installed on one side of my sled. keep in mind this install was to get me by until my new tunnel arrives. I will be adding this NEW kit to my new tunnel when it arrives.

Cheers, Steve!

See my Swapmeet ad for pricing, availability and shipping details
CLICK HERE FOR THE SWAPMEET AD

How do I order a set?