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Fuel problems I think, with 2011 pro new engine.

It could be one of a hundred things...or combos of several. Take it to a qualified dealer for breakdown and analysis. The system has so many tech electrical related aspects you could chase this for the entire season.

That experience is common on an exhaust sensor coding. It reads ohms from a heat coupler converts to a written program parameter and initiates a fail safe when your EGT is outside that parameter. Usually this 10%ish addition of fuel generally runs your system right down to what you experience. Sometimes you will see a code flash and for another unexplained reason it will not actually code and only a qualified dealer will be able to see this situation. Now generally speaking this might not just be a sensor going bad it might indicate that you are experiencing a lean condition at these times and your pipe sensor is telling you so.
 
I just had new top end, bottom end, head, tps, and injectors put in my 2011 pro. We went up and rode got 50 miles on it. On the way back to the truck I would mash it and it would tach 8200 to 8250 then it would just fall on its face and drop to between 6000 and 7000rs, like it's running out of fuel. Then u let off and get back in it and it will tach 8200 and run normal. It's acts like its running out of fuel like every 3 times u mash it not every time that's what I don't get. It was doing this same thing right before it burned up but it was every time I mashed it. Now it will only bog like every 3 times and run fine the other two. I was just wondering if it would be a fuel pump going or a fuel filter bad or something. Any help would be much appreciated thanks.

Your air temperature sensor send a bad reading to the CDI!

Replace your sensor, part 2410422
 
I lied I had the ethanol plug in it. The dealer must have changed it for me.

He did that to make sure it runs rich, but I have been told to not use that as a fuel box and to run the correct plug for the fuel that you are running. F- Bomb is corrct it could be a multitude of things. I also would not spend too much time on it by yourself. Good Luck and keep us posted.
 
I am having a very similar problem that Ryker is experiencing.

2011 Pro RMK 800 155, 1700 kms with MBRP can. Just bought it and took it out yesterday in 3 to 4 feet of fresh. On the trail in we had some problems with bogging at every rpm and rough idle, I am running 91 from the pumps with ethanol. Changed the resistor to the non-ethanol plug and it ran a lot better, got rid of the bottom and middle end bog, but still bogged around 8000 rpm every once in a while.

In the alpine it would pull 8050-8100 for about 10 seconds, and then fall on its face and consistently drop til idle if I kept it wide open, felt like it was running out of fuel. If I got off the gas and then put it to the bars again it would go for another 10 seconds.

Near the end of the day, the sled had a trouble starting hot, would catch but idle very rough at low rpm. Then got stuck, shut if off and the sled would not start. Pulled plugs and it appeared to be running well, had spark, could smell fuel but plugs were dry. Two hours later in the dark it finally started up after pulling it over WOT. Ran well 30kms back to the truck.

Is the air temperature sensor the same thing as the pipe sensor, can I test the pipe sensor or do I just have to replace it?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I was really hoping I wasn't going to have problems the first day out with my Pro! :face-icon-small-con
 
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I am interested to see what your dealer tells you..... As I experience the WOT bog once in a while and also after about 10 seconds of WOT.

It bogs like there is no fuel for a moment.... I usually release the throttle completely then back on it as fast as I can and it always recovers..... and then no more bog after I continue WOT.
I think it has to do with pipe temperature sensor.

Monster7 could you please elaborate on the Air temp. sensor?
 
I had a simular problem with my 2011 pro rmk assault..
At long pulls or driving on the fields with long full WOT it would bog.. First from 8100 to 79, 77 and then all the way down to 6000.. If I didn't lay off the throttle it would resume to 8100 again but drop after a little while.. No DET light or errors saved in the ecu..
My dealer changed the fuel pump and new injectors, problem solved =)
 
Same

I have a 2011 Switch Back 800 My first real ride of the sesaon yesterday due to snow conditions here. I had the same type problem...I think... sounds like it hits the rev limiter, but the tach only reads 76-7900rpms so I know it's not that. No codes or beeps... Just hear the motor make that bap bap bap sound. Does not do it in light snow, or on the trail, but does it regularly on the hard pulls at full throttle in heavy'ish snow....when your working the motor hard i guess. On the trails the thing rips, runs flawlessly. It didn't do this last year, at all, but this was the first time I ran it hard in deeper snow, really making the motor work. I just put on a BMP powderlite can before I headed up north and have not heard that people have had to remap, just to run a can??? Is the can causing a lean condition that the computer is protecting it self from??? or is it one of these other gremlins???? Will put on the other stock can....if I have to, but have not heard of others on here having to do that???? Frustrating because it runs good most of the time, just not all the time. Also runnig the eth plug on 10% eth premium gas. this is riding at sea levelish elevation as well if that makes a diff.
 
Quickest simplest, and cheapest thing to try is to put the stock can back on and test it again. If that doesn't work, try adding 2 grams of weight to your primary. I bet one of the two will take care of your issue.
 
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I have been riding 8 to 10k. So I put 62s in and ran up the mtn an burned it down the road and still it the same problem going on but now it does it at 8050 and drops to the same r's. It has to be a fuel problem. I also took my dads pro and it feels more crisp on throttle response and sounds different than mine clear through the rpm range. Like his is getting the right amount of fuel and mine is almost starving all the way through the rpm range. Could it be my fuel pump is going out? Should I change it and my fuel filter?

Polaris did change the injectors for 2012 correct? Is there any way to test the injectors under load? Or just replace them?
 
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Well the dealer went through everything. He put new fuel pump and filter on rode it and bog got worse. So he put my pump and filter back on and tried it again and got worse now it's doing it at 6200 every time. So he called Polaris and told them the situation and how he just replaced them with the rebuild and they told him that some of the injectors are bad right out of the box. Good thing it's warranty or I would be pissed if I had to pay for a bad pair of injectors. I haven't even put 100 miles on it since the rebuild! So I guess I'm getting new injectors again I will let u know if it fixes it or not.
 
Nuthin yet I hope I can pick it up tomorrow. What happened was Polaris sent him injectors to put in and they were the total wrong injector. The package number was right but the injector was wrong. So he called to see what was going on with this and Polaris had 400 sets of injectors and only one pair was right. Ya like 1 out of 400 that's freakin awesome! Bet someone in packaging got fired at Polaris for that screw up! It has been nothing but a nightmare this year with this sled. I will let u know tomorrow when I pick it up and ride it!
 
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