Fuel Pressure dropping on Boost

[Arctic Thunder]

and is this still a possibility to be your issue or not..????

I think this is the problem. But until my new boost controller gets here I won't know for sure.

I am going with the Turbosmart boost tee. TS-0101-1001.

This was recommended by Jeremy at Supreme Power Sports, LLC in Lewiston.

Thanks Jeremy.

Martin

 

[rusty rider]

I dont think its boost controller. If manifold pressure is hooked straight up to waste gate actuator you will just run whatever your waste gate has for lb spring in boost I would guess. I have never tried that, someone correct me if im wrong. I would put money on external fuel reg. Just my .02 But I could very well be wrong too.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I dont think its boost controller. If manifold pressure is hooked straight up to waste gate actuator you will just run whatever your waste gate has for lb spring in boost I would guess. I have never tried that, someone correct me if im wrong. I would put money on external fuel reg. Just my .02 But I could very well be wrong too.

Any idea what Stanger uses for his 1:1 external regulators? Found it, Bosch 028016001. but this one isn't boost adjustable. But the msd 2222 is, it looks to me like all they do is take out the standard adjusting bolt and install the one with the boost signal line connection. So wonder if I could purchase a standard Bosch 028016001 and remove my adjustable boost fititng and put it in the Bosch regulator?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bosch-0280160001-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Made-In-Germany-/400508724061

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Accessories/Fuel_Acc_/2222_-_Fuel_Pressure_Regulator,_Boost_Adjustable.aspx The only thing that bothers me about the MSD one is it says adjustable from 36-45 psi. And doesn't say one to one or anything.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bosch-0280160001-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Made-In-Germany-/400508724061



And I think what you have written here is correct. open line will be whatever the spring has for tension.

Thanks

Thunder

 

[m8magicandmystery]

The fuel lines upto the rail are under pressure. So I wouldn't think it would collapse. On the pickup side maybe.

I will check the fuel pickups and make sure they are good.

Thunder

Sometimes a rubber line can be breached just a small amount on the pressure side and the pressure works on the back side and when pressure is equal no problem but then just a slightest variation then a flap could develop and then return back open etc.

Have you ever seen a rad hose on the return side after the thermostat ever bubble up and act up when it seperates, and that's low pressure..

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I dont think its boost controller. If manifold pressure is hooked straight up to waste gate actuator you will just run whatever your waste gate has for lb spring in boost I would guess. I have never tried that, someone correct me if im wrong. I would put money on external fuel reg. Just my .02 But I could very well be wrong too.

Their has to be a test for a $100 part?

Thunder

 

[rusty rider]

I needed another one my self this year so I initially called Shain and he wanted me to send a check ahead of time before he would mail it out. I was not having that scenario and did not want to wait for the mail system two times over so I just called garr instead. I Think it was about $80 or so for a new one. I really like garr and he helped me a lot during my recent projects. If you can't figure it out soon try shooting him a call.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Ok, more testing tonight. Here is what it not.

I pulled the return line from the external regulator, ran pump, and then increased pressure on the regulator. No leakage from the internal regulator in the tank on the stock fuel pump. (was told this could be a problem, so I tested it to make sure it wasn't bypassing in the tank)

I put a clear piece of tubing on the outlet side of the fuel pump/regulator. with a blocking valve. Ran the pump, with the valve closed it bypassed like it should and held a rock solid 42 psi. I also made sure I didn't have any air bubbles in the fuel supply. This is to confirm the pickups in the tank are air tight.

I blocked off the discharge line (to fuel rail) ran pump, pressure was at 42psi, held 42 psi for an hour. Again a test of the regulator and pump.

I ran the pump on a 6v power supply, pump was much slower but still held the 40psi of fuel pressure.

Conclusion at this time.

pump is good
pickup pucks and lines are good in the tank
external regulator is good
fuel lines are good

Leaves me with the final two things to check.

1. Boost controller. Last time out when I started having issues, I didn't have a boost controller. (I still think there is a chance the charge tube pressures were bouncing around, causing the jumps and dips in fuel pressure)

2. Power supply to pump. I will install a volt meter and run it and see if I am getting dips in the power supply.


More news later.

Thunder

 

[matt159]

• I had same problem yesterday... 15 to 20 psi fuel pressure and haven't sorted it out yet. I swapped ccu on my 2008 & still 20 psi. I pinched off the return line after the external regulator & still 20psi. not sure when I will work on mine this week but I am anxious to see what u find. I put a new stator in mine 400 miles ago trying to figure out a tss issue. .. so hope it's not the stator... running Wahlberg hivol pump with bd booster board.

cracked fuse by ccu on mine... stoopid. partial contact & crack must have got hot enough to move & stop conducting. without the fuse in, it makes 15 to 20psi fuel pressure... with new fuse... 43. Now time to check the wiring harness out just to make sure... yuck. I don't think there is a fuse on the 2009's, so not much help to you.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

[/LIST]
[/LEFT]
cracked fuse by ccu on mine... stoopid. partial contact & crack must have got hot enough to move & stop conducting. without the fuse in, it makes 15 to 20psi fuel pressure... with new fuse... 43. Now time to check the wiring harness out just to make sure... yuck. I don't think there is a fuse on the 2009's, so not much help to you.

Good find. What a PITA

Thunder

 

[Arctic Thunder]

[/LIST]
[/LEFT]
cracked fuse by ccu on mine... stoopid. partial contact & crack must have got hot enough to move & stop conducting. without the fuse in, it makes 15 to 20psi fuel pressure... with new fuse... 43. Now time to check the wiring harness out just to make sure... yuck. I don't think there is a fuse on the 2009's, so not much help to you.

Good find. What a PITA

Thunder

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You didn't rule out it being a power issue, you hooked up 12v and it worked, so if you have 12v it should still be staying at 40psi right, and only the 10lbs in between 40-50 should vary if it was the regulator or boost reference/ controller. those are my thoughts. Get a small 12v battery, tie it down and make some pulls and see what happens. Maybe its the reg but your test just shows with the right voltage and pressure it works but doesn't rule them out one at a time.

Unless there is water in tank or a smart valve blocking flow???

 

[Hillclimbpro]

You didn't rule out it being a power issue, you hooked up 12v and it worked, so if you have 12v it should still be staying at 40psi right, and only the 10lbs in between 40-50 should vary if it was the regulator or boost reference/ controller. those are my thoughts. Get a small 12v battery, tie it down and make some pulls and see what happens. Maybe its the reg but your test just shows with the right voltage and pressure it works but doesn't rule them out one at a time.

Unless there is water in tank or a smart valve blocking flow???

He's ALIVE!

 

[Arctic Thunder]

You didn't rule out it being a power issue, you hooked up 12v and it worked, so if you have 12v it should still be staying at 40psi right, and only the 10lbs in between 40-50 should vary if it was the regulator or boost reference/ controller. those are my thoughts. Get a small 12v battery, tie it down and make some pulls and see what happens. Maybe its the reg but your test just shows with the right voltage and pressure it works but doesn't rule them out one at a time.

Unless there is water in tank or a smart valve blocking flow???

Where in the hell have you been?

I ordered a new Stator yesterday from Michelle at OTS. (Great deal by the way and she had them on the shelf)

I have the 12v battery and the harness ready for a test run. I am thinking the same as you. I am getting weak power from the stator, so I can maintain 40psi at 6v, but when I come on boost and need increased pressure, along with the power draw, I just don't have enough juice from the stator to keep the pressure up.

I will put in the new stator tonight and give it a shot.

Thanks

Thunder

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I've been busy building a business so I can sponsor myself to do what ever I want, its about to get really interesting. O and I moved, got engaged, spent a week on an island, a week traveling all over and the rest building some business's. Fun stuff

Will be curious to see what you find, not sure I'll be around much for a bit though so good luck, I'll check back if I can.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I've been busy building a business so I can sponsor myself to do what ever I want, its about to get really interesting. O and I moved, got engaged, spent a week on an island, a week traveling all over and the rest building some business's. Fun stuff

Will be curious to see what you find, not sure I'll be around much for a bit though so good luck, I'll check back if I can.

I am banking on a stator. Now does anyone have the ohms resistance of the stator sections. my manual has 5040-7560 on the ignition coil, Primary at .24-.36 and the secondary is 5040-7560. That sounds like a crap load of resistance to me. I can't find a really good number to test from. So will see.

Thunder

 

[matt159]

stator diagram .pdf

Resolution isn't the best... but it's there.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Don't always believe what you read or see on the internet. I will leave this post as good info, but I am still up in the air about actual testing of the stator and telling if it is good or bad. I posted an update below, Thunder

Ok update.

I did some reading and a few youtube training videos. lol

Here is what I found out. If you check a stator no matter what temperature it is if any of the coils ohm out higher than the MAX range it is about 99.9% chance of being bad, They give you a 10-20% range on the ohms, but again my understanding if it is even a tenth over max range its' bad.

So on a twisted turbo kit you unplug the factory fuel pump connection and use that power supply to run the attitude box and the AEM gauge. So when looking at the coil for the fuel pump it ohms out good and it should.

Then on a twisted kit we use the accessory plug to power the hi output fuel pump with the capacitor and rectifier.

So I did some testing on the Charge coils in the stator.

The range for the charge coil is 7.2-10.8 ohms.

At 46f they both ohmed out at 10.4 (within in spec)
At 50f they both ohmed at 10.7 (still within spec)

I put a heat lamp on the stator and warmed it up.

At 100f both charge coils ohmed at 12.1 (way over Max)

So I think a new stator will do the trick and get me going again.

I will try and put together a quick video on how I checked it just so others know. (I am sure a lot of guys know what the hell they are doing, I had to figure it out the hard way)

When the new stator hits my door, I will set them side by side and ohm them out to compare.

When I get the new parts and get it back together I will do a final update.

Thunder

 

[Arctic Thunder]

Got my new stator in the mail.

And I don't know, but it tested exactly the same as my old one. So the old "it must be true because I seen it on the internet" bit me again!!!!

I suppose I now have a good spare stator.

But I finally did catch up with the one guy that knows what the hell is going on. Stanger. And he spent a good hour on the phone walking through everything from front to back.

And after a bunch of looking and checking we found the problem. A $0.05 cent wire connector. The wire from my Rectifier to the fuel pump has a capacitor spliced into it, and sure enough the ground wire to the capacitor didn't have continuity. So the pump would run good on the stock stator power, but under a good hard load, it wouldn't keep up and the capacitor wasn't givin it the extra juice.

Now is this "IT" I won't really know until I give it a run this weekend. So will see and thanks to Shain for helping me out. Shain hasn't completely ruled out the fuel pump. So more testing to be sure.

Thunder

 

[WyoBoy1000]

take a small battery (battery pack out of ac car would be nice) to splice in and test.

 

[rusty rider]

Man I hate these types of gremlins! Glad you found something wrong finally!

I had an instance last year where I though stator was out too, got new one and tested the same as well. Turned out it was ecu. Such a PITA!