Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

fresh top

joshkoltes

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
i took my moor down to revive the top since all the talk has me scared. this thing still looks great. cylinders still have a little cross hatch, pistons still have teflon, looks like it has good oil, the colors are strange but keep in mind its been on strait 100ll 8psi for 1200 miles.

three suspecious things,
-see blow byon the o rings, is there better head o rings out there? i know there is but whats the size?
-the wrist pin bearings look blue? is it from high heat? or has everybody elses looked similar? they still feel fair, not very loose in the cage.
-my crank feels tight, trying to roll it by hand with the top off. is the magneto that strong? it feels smooth but i cant get it rolling like old motors. my opinion here is tight is good but i dont want to take it down further especially since everything else looks great.

2013-01-25_22-45-15_885.jpg

2013-01-25_22-45-53_402.jpg

2013-01-25_22-47-03_474.jpg

2013-01-25_22-46-19_620.jpg

2013-01-25_22-47-24_572.jpg

2013-01-25_22-47-34_615.jpg

2013-01-25_22-49-59_454.jpg
 
Last edited:
The resistance you feel when turning the crank over is the magnets in the flywheel and the stator. And they seem to have a fair amount of force.

I haven't heard of aftermarket head o'rings. That's interesting...

The OEM rings in these motors (CFI-2) even stock, aren't sealing very well at all and are wearing prematurely. Excessive, premature ring wear wasn't an issue with the CFI-4.

I just tore down a 355 mile '12 Silber to install a Fix Kit from MTNTK. The bearings didn't look like yours at all. They looked perfect. Then again, you have many more miles on yours. It was running 100% C-12 at 12 lbs. Redline oil with oiler turned up 4 turns.

The lower end recieves no fuel in the CFI-2 so a little extra oil is a must.

The real story would be to measure piston to cylinder clearance in your motor. The motor above had 0.012" just above the piston skirt in the Mag and 0.011" in the PTO.
 
Pretty much how mine looked. I had 2000 miles on mine boosted. My stock pistons where pretty sloppy. Put new RKTek pistons in for this season and planning on doing dans long rod this summer
 
Josh looking at your wrist pin bearings you can past that to the piston It looks like to me your getting a fair amount of heat on your domes. Perhaps better fuel or a little more. On the blow by did you check end gap on the rings? you may be a bit loose> Just a thought.The turbo is alive tuning tomarrow By the way.
 
How many miles before boost did this motor have

380 miles i beleive.

for blow by im talking about the o rings not the piston rings. ive been getting dirty coolent for quite a while. cant hardly see through my bottle. and you can see where it has been leakin.

whats the gap supposed to be .012 min like usual?
 
I can't seem to find the cylinder bolt torque specks. anybody have the info. I searched and found the head is 25 but nothin for the cyl. Thanks
 
Premium Features



Back
Top