Well I have been trying to track down this noise for a while now on the 15 XM, sounded like a clutch problem. Today I finally found it, about a 1/4 inch size hole behind the primary clutch. A bolt from the exhaust came out and when behind the clutch and eventually got itself positioned prefect to puncture a hole in the case ?. upset and impressed at the same time, this thing has been running very well considering there was a hole in the case. I probably put 200 mountain mile on like this, never would have thought there was a problem. I compression tested both cylinders, both test at 137 psi, so good there, but what about the crankshaft? anyway to tell if it was harmed? There is no up and down play that I can tell trying to move it up and down with my hand. Thinking I can get this welded shut assuming the motor is good. but would if its not? are these motors hard to remove? I have removed motors on dirt bikes but not sleds.
Found a hole in crankcase, now what?
- Thread starter Wideopenmafia
- Start date
That's crazy it ran that long I would check out cylinders and pistons to see if it went lean. If that checks out crank is probably ok if runout is good. Then I'm sure someone could weld it up if it's not too close to crank support may need new seal. On an older sled I'd go for but I think if I was in your shoes I'd be looking for a case but mid season I could see myself trying it.
Cylinders and piston are good. I could go start it right now and climb a mountain, it doesn't even know the hole is there. Still really upset. I think I even remember last season dropping that exhaust bolt and not finding it.
Trying to figure out next step. Even just getting oem cases is a $1000
Trying to figure out next step. Even just getting oem cases is a $1000
Check crank runout with a dial indicator. I'd have it welded and then replace the crank seal and add grease after just to be safe.
1/4" hole? Id roll the sled up on its side clean the snot out of the hole and jb weld it. I dont like fixes like this but id bet money it would work just fine. Ive seen it done several times on jet skis. Clean is the most important part with jb weld. Then let it dry for a full 24 hours.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
welp, here is what I decided. sending it to a builder in Utah to get it tore down, inspected, hole fixed, then new top end, better then gettin someone's used motor and it will better than before. now I'm deciding if i should go forged or cast pistons? they said i would get a little more HP outa forged because their lighter, but i have to make sure to warm it up good first to prevent a cold seizure, which i do anyway
Also, when I remover motor do I just unbolt thoes injectors that sit on top of each cylinders so I dont have too disconnect all thoes hoses?
Cast pistons
Stay away from forged pistons
Ok. I wount do forged.
Can I just unbolt these injectors?
Can I just unbolt these injectors?
Yes you can unbolt them. Bag them to keep them clean and tie them up out of the way and mark which cylinder they came from. To avoid damaging them you may want to leave them on the motor and just unhook them or remove them completely.
Thinking i may have some compromised bearings. They will check for it. Would not be a very big loss if it had 6000 on it, but it's only got 1800
thought of another thing, seems like an important thing, how do I properly manage all these little oil lines? you can see a few of them in that pic with the injectors. I already know I should label them when I removed motor. guess I should also plug them somehow. how do I assure that when I wanna go ride it for the first time that all the lines are primed and oiling ?
The question was how do I prime the oil lines
If in doubt if you have a good prime job just mix a little oil in your first tank of gas while the system is purging itself. 50 to 1 ratio is safe enough. Then look after the first ride to see if you can find any air pockets left.
