Clutch Alignment

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Well I took one of those "beer breaks" you mentioned and I feel ALOT better about the .060 so I'm gonna put this pig back together and run it! Problem solved! Thanks for all the help I'll keep ya posted on how it performs

before you put it all back togeather..try this..loosen the chaincase bolts up(bolting the case to the chassis) then install your alignment bar again..and see if rocking the case forward or back at the top gear doesnt bring your jackshaft around to where you want it...normally if I find a sled thats out very far this will bring it right in close...

 

[Z-Man]

Here is the instructions from SLP that show the recommended specs in case anyone needs them.

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/instsheets/20-191.pdf

 

[Grandlake 900]

Had some crank work done by Indy Dan this summer and put the motor back in this fall. I wish I would have had this information before I finished. I might even go back and follow your proceedures on a blizzardy weekend day this winter just to check. Excellent information. Thanks.

 

[Z-Man]

I'm waiting on an alignment bar to get here before I do the motormount swap and any clutch work. I want to see just how far out of spec mine is since it had such bad belt eating issues. I have had the clutch alignment checked by Polaris dealers at least three times and I got the feeling the didn't do a thing.

 

[Z-Man]

Got my SLP clutch alignment bar today. Was sticking out of the side of the box when it got here but no damage to it luckily. Calls for 0.0 to .020 gap at the rear with an SLP torque arm, mine was .022.

 

[sw]

Looks good Zman, less to worry about! Have really good snow in Mn. and the 9 & 6 were ridden hard over new years weekend, nice over the hood kinda snow, but the ol'bones are paying for it now!

 

[sw]

It's been brought to my attention that in the process of clutch alignment an issue has arisen concerning the rear crankcase motor mount tabs, specifically ones that have been heli-coiled. The heli-coiling is fine, it is fairly common for these to strip out, but they must be put in straight-perpendicular to the boss. It is advisable not to 'eyeball' it when drilling out, just a little out of square & plumb makes a big difference. I recommend using a jig, much like you'd use a guide to drill dowel holes in wood, made of 3/8 to 1/2" steel scrap, drill 25/64th hole for heli-coil tap, using drill press-so to be nice and straight, and then cut to shape so you can clamp it centered over mashed out hole. Use this as a guide to drill through. Also use new grade 8 bolts @ assembly of sufficient length to capture all the threads on crankcase tabs. Lastly, while I'm here I'm interested to hear from people who have done this alignment & have put on some miles this winter, did you notice any improvement, any worse, no difference??! Thanks

 

[lowridermatt]

Havent done yet...Your sled is spotless! Mind you..once the nordlocks go on my exhaust, I might have a chance at a clean sled. Thanks for your info on the clutch alignment.

 

[millwall]

Nice write up, and that's a sparkling engine bay, also I like the idea of studs for the exhaust bolts, will save on those alum threads in the long run.
I tried the alignment bar, had 0.00 front 0.120 back. I also have 3 other cases and cranks quickly put them together with 4 bolts holding the cases together. Used the standard mounts and crossmember, took reading. Then tried compfusion mounts and a billet crossmember i made, not much difference. But the variance i had was 0.00 to 0.01, 0.00 to 0.025, 0.00 to 0.08 and 0.00 to 0.120. So my conclusion until i take the cases to work and measure on a CMM, is the whole bolt hole pattern is either shifted to the centerline of the crank, or a certain bolt hole is out, which eventually pulls the motor off centerline with the jackshaft.
Also on that billet crossmember there is no bolt hole clearance.
So it's looking like there is no consistency between any of these cases.
So for now, the best way is as SW mentions is to shim, and use the clearance in the crossmember to adjust the motor around.

 

[e46m3]

SW,
Would it be possible to get a longer grade 8 bolt and put a nut on the back of PTO rear motor mount boss if the threads are stripped out?

 

[Z-Man]

SW,
Would it be possible to get a longer grade 8 bolt and put a nut on the back of PTO rear motor mount boss if the threads are stripped out?

Yes but you would have to grind the surface flat and the fuel injector is right there so there is minimal space.

 

[sw]

As stated above, and it will wreak havoc on the motor mounts & further distort threaded hole....It's a bummer

 

[sw]

I'm a little hesitant to post this but there seems to be a good amount of traffic as of late concerning mounts and crossmembers. The thing is, at least concerning alignment, you have to know exactly what measurements need to be addressed in order to fix it, sounds self explanatory but when it comes down to changing things by just a few hundredths of an inch, it really does make a difference. So if you've went through all the blah-blah-blah above, & you know for a fact your alignment is...what it is, but you want it better? Well then it's time for math and access to a vertical mill or something of it's modern counterpart, and a 'blank' crossmember piece. Something identical to the original, minus the actual holes for the front motor mounts, but the side plate mounting holes remain identical to original, so save it for reference dimensions! This will get thick in a hurry so, I'll try to condense it to keep it readable. Start the whole whiz-bang by indicating original crossmember on the mill, pick a corner to zero out on, and get the center to center dimensions of holes, write em down. Remove it and clamp new crossmember in the same fashion. Then if you know (for example) your kickout is .100, motor twisted clockwise, you want to do the trig, based off the centerline dim. of original, and make a 'skewed line' ccw to compensate for that, keep in mind you'll also have to move the skew line forward a bit (as your looking from the front of engine bay) to maintain the 11.5" center to center distance of clutches. Remember pencil and paper are your friend, make many notes and drawings as you work through it, don't rush it. Just spot drill all your measurements and take a break to look it over/think it through. Then you can start making chips! You'll end up with a crossmember that would make NASA proud, but your friends will think your insane! It's alot of work/time so this can be done only if you know for a fact that there are no other 'gremlins' contributing to the mis-alignment problem, the changes will be small but the effect will be great by the time the belt meets the clutches!

 

[diamonddave]

before you put it all back togeather..try this..loosen the chaincase bolts up(bolting the case to the chassis) then install your alignment bar again..and see if rocking the case forward or back at the top gear doesnt bring your jackshaft around to where you want it...normally if I find a sled thats out very far this will bring it right in close...

This is great advice if you find one not lining up.

 

[sw]

Ha! Ha! In general, I don't like numbers, & I don't like bolts, there always seems to be one more...!

 

[sw]

Tossing this up, fair amount of new owners out there...just something to keep in mind. I'm out!

 

[02sedona]

Back to the top with some good info.