Fogging a PRO for summer.

[Jaynelson]

I just sucked all the fuel out of the tank and then mixed some gas and oil (very rich) with non-oxigenated gas, put in 1 gallon of the mixed fuel and ran my sled untill it was smokein good and shut it down.

Next year i will fill it with fuel and it should clean out just fine.

That was my plan also....can't see any huge downside. Will likely put some extra oil down the plug holes

 

[Buckshot700]

fogging a pro motor

Just bought a 13 600 rmk and I know there is a way to screw in a nipple of some sort and just spray the fogging oil directly into the lower part of the air box instead of pulling it out and tearing the center hood off and stuff. Just looking for some pics of anything like this anyone has done and some advice on it. Thanks.

 

[Reg2view]

There are a few posts on how the air box was modded to permit easy fogging.

I just replace the fuel filter at the same time I fog the motor and then I'm done. Since 2011. Gotta get the clutch guard off, and hang the oil tank, unplug the ECU, anyways to change the filter. 90% of the way to the bottom half of the airbox already.

On my etec I push a button to fog. That is nice.

 

[Buckshot700]

Thanks for the info. I am coming off of an edge 700 so not used to dealing with all the electronics yet. But well worth it this is a way better handling sled compared to that one.

 

[snowman80]

It's nice to know some people still fog their sleds! Seen way too many failure from people not fogging their sleds.

 

[scha0786]

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=308246&highlight=fogging

been hit hard last year

 

[likkerpig]

Doesn't this only address getting fogging oil to the top end?

Why can a guy grab a coat hanger and pull the oil injection rod all the way open when the sled is idling? Wouldn't that pump a bunch of oil into the lower end vs just hitting the top with folding oil?

 

[geo]

Empty tank and pour in storage fuel and do as above at 2500 rpm. Stop when you can't see lol.

I pull it out during mosquito season and repeat it couple of times ( and it's really good therapy when it's 100 plus degrees). Pretty simple but don't forget about the s**t fuel today even if you have a button that does this for you

 

[scha0786]

ahhhh what, unless you got a 4 stroke in yours. Fogging thru the intake on a 2 stroke will coat the bottom and top. air/fuel is sucked in thru the case and transferred up top via transfer ports.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/two-stroke1.htm

 

[m8matt]

ahhhh what, unless you got a 4 stroke in yours. Fogging thru the intake on a 2 stroke will coat the bottom and top. air/fuel is sucked in thru the case and transferred up top via transfer ports.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/two-stroke1.htm

I'm new to Polaris but I thk this isn't true on the 800 CFI motor. I could be totally wrong tho. I Thk the top and bottom are oiled individually. Clarification?

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

The different part of the 800 cfi2 is the injector placement that squirts fuel after the air has gone through the crank case. Anything in the intake air stream will go through the whole motor.

 

[scha0786]

2 stroke is a 2 stroke, thats what makes it - it, lol.

The 2 stroke combustion cycle has not changed much since inception. Nowadays, ETEC and CFI technology has improved on how efficiently the 2 stroke cycle is by changing when, where and how fuel is introduced.

squirt the fogging oil in the intake and your good to go for the 800CFI.

if you want to really blow your mind - look up 2 stroke diesel combustion cycle. now thats a head scratcher.

what i really want Polaris or Ski doo to do is offer a mountain sled with this carberator

http://www.powerapt.com/smartcarb.php

do away with all of this electronic junk and made things simple and lightweight. I guess I could just buy this and install it on a pro.

wow am i bored at work, lol.

 

[xc6rider]

Doesn't this only address getting fogging oil to the top end?

Why can a guy grab a coat hanger and pull the oil injection rod all the way open when the sled is idling? Wouldn't that pump a bunch of oil into the lower end vs just hitting the top with folding oil?

Anything going thru the intake will travel through the whole engine. The injectors only spray fuel into the transfers, but were putting the fogging oil in before that point.

And as far as opening the oil pump, it wont hurt anything, and will help over doing nothing. But, the oil wont stick/coat as long or as well as the fogging oil. Fogging oil also will usually do a better job of burning out when you run it, whereas extra engine oil will just slobber all over in your exhaust/valves etc...

 

[geo]

Why does fogging oil burn out easier? I've seen the opposite even to the point of needing new plugs to start.

Slobering the engine with a good semi-synthetic a couple of times and let it sit awhile will clean your ring lands and exh valves not carbon them up. That takes too-much-heat for-the-oil to happen so you should switch brands if you have an issue with this.

Oil sticking to internal engine parts only became a problem when synthetics came on the scene. Many synthetic formulas have changed since then but you still don't know for sure.
This is one of the many reasons alot of experienced people still use a blended oil only.

To each his own but it takes 2 min to pull up on the oil pump lever while the engine is at high idle verses taking apart the airbox and pluging things back in to run it, then spray someones oil-grease-wax formula that was designed for a cast iron Briggs and Stratton motor, then put it all back together just to put your buddy into hibernation.

Sometimes simpler is better and newer is not always better.

 

[mountainhorse]

Oils that flow well in these dry crankcase engines dont coat the parts well.

Fogging oil is more tenacious and will not run off the internal parts (wrist pins, rod bearings, crank bearings etc like normal 2 stroke oil will.

Many people just start up their engines every couple weeks and feel that is good...BUT (big but) ... the fuel these days is so shakey that unless you drain your tank and run a good storage fuel like VP C9 or SEF94, then... even with a good storage additive... the gas will go sour.

Since the intro of EFI on my sleds, I've always fogged my engine, drained the gas, pulled the filter, pulled the injectors (sent in for cleaning and check) and blown out all the lines and pump...

This year, I will fill with SEF94 in a completely drained tank and start the engine every couple weeks... I run Legend ZX-2SR oil... which is a ultra high grade of mineral oil... it is more tenacious than the synthetics and burns cleanly.... my oiler is already turned up to about 38:1... plus I'll mix the SEF94 to 100:1 with the Legend oil...She'll be ready to run next year.





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[Oregonsledder]

Get it hot!!

Adding to MH post. DO NOT start your engine in the summer unless you bring it up to regular operating temps. If you start your sled and run it for a few minutes all you are doing is adding condensation to your crankcase. This is true of all engines. I have seen the rust on rods and cranks... don't do it! Fogg and let them set unless you get the engine hot enought to burn off the moisture. I know guys miss the smell of 2 stroke exhaust in the summer, but you are better off preparing for the off season and then let it be until winter. The biggest issue is our crappy gas as MH said. Get it out of your sled when it is not being ridden on a regular basis.

 

[scha0786]

speaking of that does anyone know how to make the power up cord to run the fuel pump while the engine is off? I know you can buy like a $90 polaris OEM part to do this but I had to pay into taxes this year, ugghh. money is a little tight

 

[2007dragonman]

sled fogging

Not sure if this would work but when you clean your exhaust valves you should be able to put the piston up high enough to shoot some oil down on the rod?

 

[akgiauque]

I may be missing something but we don't tear stuff apart unless it is broken. We also keep our Pros inside all summer and it is dry.

We decided that the best way to fog was
put some 20:1 through it and be done. We have less than a gallon left on most rides so a rich mix in the tank would be ok. I put fuel in the tank with stabil, the ER dealer said it was fine.

Or
Pull the hood, clean out the twigs, pull the plugs and put a little in the plug holes and pull it through. No oil in bottom but rich in the cylinders & on the rings.

Or

Run it once a month for 3-5 min until it reaches temp and don't worry about it. We have a very dry environment.

 

[xc6rider]

Geo, i know what youre saying... But alot of guys dont know the problems of newer synthetics and some of their downfalls. Coating/sticking on engine parts is one of them. Also, in the CFI, their isnt atomized oil like we see in previous engines, so it may or may not be getting moved around as good.

As for fogging oil burning out better, use good fogging oil! Best ive found for doo-ing it , is bombis xps anti-corrosive spray. Designed for watercraft in high moisture/salt water climates. It coats and protects awesome, and it always burns out completely. Creates a heck of alot of smoke, but burns like sprayin carb cleaner in.

I know many dont want to take anything apart, me included. Why i pulled it apart once and added a port for fogging. 5 mins now, and i know my crank bearings are basking in oil while sittin in the shop

Seriously, give the XPS stuff a try if you do fog though, youll love it. Also works amazing to keep the new appearance on the pipe, silencer, engine or any raw metals!