Fogging a PRO for summer.
- Thread starter RMK 163
- Start date
I would like to know the same thing.
I would too, any tips?
take the hood off and the secondary clutch. raise the top of the airbox off of the bottom and fog it. leave the bottom section of the airbox attached to the throttle bodies.
Having just done this this afternoon, it wasnt all that bad. About a 30 minute job now. What I did was:
1. Remove the hood/side panels, fuel filter holder, air intake horn, IAT sensor, secondary clutch and belt.
2. Disconnect the electrical connections from the ECU and the lines that run under the oil tank, remove the clutch guard and balance it on the primary clutch for now
3. Remove the fuel line with the fuel filter from the fuel rail and tuck it up by the handlebars.
4. Release the air box clamps and sneak the top under the remaining fuel line that is connected
5. Remove the air horns
6. Reconnect the fuel line and set the clutch guard back into place, reconnect all Electrical connectors (just set the IAT sensor and horn on top of the engine)
7. Start the engine, bring it up to temp and fog the engine
8. Disconnect the electrical connections and clutch guard
9. Remove fuel line
10. Install air horns and airbox top
11. Reassemble all the crap you took off.
12. While your in it this deep, take the time to grease the Jackshaft and driveshaft while the clutch is off.
My thought to address this on a more permanent bassis is to put grommets in the airbox above the TB's and run the same size tubing that the chaincase breather uses and postion it above the TB so in the future you could fog the engine by spraying fogging oil into the breather line. A hose splice would seal the hoses up and keep the airbox sealed. Future service would be a cake walk after the intial agony of disassembly to install the grommets and oil feed lines.
I'm showing Ebay links because it was the easiest visual reference, I'm sure all of these parts could be had at your local parts/hardware store.
Here is my preliminary Parts list:
Oil Line x 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-DT10...49?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35b85c2521
Grommets 7mm should be OD on the oil line
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F02028-7mm-...998?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c063c72e
Hose splice to connect oil lines when not in use
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3mm-6m...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6a2d6b76&vxp=mtr
1. Remove the hood/side panels, fuel filter holder, air intake horn, IAT sensor, secondary clutch and belt.
2. Disconnect the electrical connections from the ECU and the lines that run under the oil tank, remove the clutch guard and balance it on the primary clutch for now
3. Remove the fuel line with the fuel filter from the fuel rail and tuck it up by the handlebars.
4. Release the air box clamps and sneak the top under the remaining fuel line that is connected
5. Remove the air horns
6. Reconnect the fuel line and set the clutch guard back into place, reconnect all Electrical connectors (just set the IAT sensor and horn on top of the engine)
7. Start the engine, bring it up to temp and fog the engine
8. Disconnect the electrical connections and clutch guard
9. Remove fuel line
10. Install air horns and airbox top
11. Reassemble all the crap you took off.
12. While your in it this deep, take the time to grease the Jackshaft and driveshaft while the clutch is off.
My thought to address this on a more permanent bassis is to put grommets in the airbox above the TB's and run the same size tubing that the chaincase breather uses and postion it above the TB so in the future you could fog the engine by spraying fogging oil into the breather line. A hose splice would seal the hoses up and keep the airbox sealed. Future service would be a cake walk after the intial agony of disassembly to install the grommets and oil feed lines.
I'm showing Ebay links because it was the easiest visual reference, I'm sure all of these parts could be had at your local parts/hardware store.
Here is my preliminary Parts list:
Oil Line x 2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-DT10...49?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35b85c2521
Grommets 7mm should be OD on the oil line
http://www.ebay.com/itm/F02028-7mm-...998?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c063c72e
Hose splice to connect oil lines when not in use
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-3mm-6m...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6a2d6b76&vxp=mtr
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I just had a thread on this also
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306236
This is what I did, put alot of oil in a little gas in the bottom of my tank, then reached in and pushed the oil pump full tilt and ran it for a couple mins and put a little oil down the cyl's and pull it over a couple time's. I thinks thats going to be the easiest way to do it and cover all bases
Or not?? It's all in how you want to do it, I just think Poo made it hard as chit to do a normal fogging compared to my old Doo's, it Kinda blows!!!
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306236
This is what I did, put alot of oil in a little gas in the bottom of my tank, then reached in and pushed the oil pump full tilt and ran it for a couple mins and put a little oil down the cyl's and pull it over a couple time's. I thinks thats going to be the easiest way to do it and cover all bases
Or not?? It's all in how you want to do it, I just think Poo made it hard as chit to do a normal fogging compared to my old Doo's, it Kinda blows!!!Ok so I just did this last weekend.
Its a PITA!!!!
I ended up buying the aerosal version of seafoam, with the super long red tube (like 18" long). Used fogging oil but just wanted the red dispensing tube
I took the hood off and got the upper air tube off, super easy. Then I custom bent the tubing so that when I stuck it down in the air horn it would shoot the fogging oil in the throttle bodies and not on the bottom of the air box. Hooked up with hood connections and fogged it for a good 1-2 minutes directing the red tube at both throttle bodies by twisting. Then I finally stopped giving it gas and let it choke out.
took plugs out and sprayed in cylinders while lightly pulling cord.
I tried getting the intake horns out but had too much trouble with getting the upper half of the air box off. I had limited tools and limited time. Maybe next spring I will figure out something better but I figured something was better then nothing for the first summer.
Oh don't forget to spray everything down with WD40!
Its a PITA!!!!
I ended up buying the aerosal version of seafoam, with the super long red tube (like 18" long). Used fogging oil but just wanted the red dispensing tube
I took the hood off and got the upper air tube off, super easy. Then I custom bent the tubing so that when I stuck it down in the air horn it would shoot the fogging oil in the throttle bodies and not on the bottom of the air box. Hooked up with hood connections and fogged it for a good 1-2 minutes directing the red tube at both throttle bodies by twisting. Then I finally stopped giving it gas and let it choke out.
took plugs out and sprayed in cylinders while lightly pulling cord.
I tried getting the intake horns out but had too much trouble with getting the upper half of the air box off. I had limited tools and limited time. Maybe next spring I will figure out something better but I figured something was better then nothing for the first summer.
Oh don't forget to spray everything down with WD40!
A
Aussie Niko
Well-known member
Be careful using WD40 you know its the devil 
It can flush out grease from areas that need it.
It can flush out grease from areas that need it.
I just sucked all the fuel out of the tank and then mixed some gas and oil (very rich) with non-oxigenated gas, put in 1 gallon of the mixed fuel and ran my sled untill it was smokein good and shut it down.
Next year i will fill it with fuel and it should clean out just fine.
Next year i will fill it with fuel and it should clean out just fine.
wd 40, keeps all the moisture off. prevents all surface rust and corrosion from the high humidity summers. I buy WD40 in bulk 1 gallon containers and use a hand sprayer. I spray WD40 from top to bottom left to right, everything from the engine bay to all of the suspension.
been doing since 2002 on 7 sleds.
i regrease in the fall so no worries there
been doing since 2002 on 7 sleds.
i regrease in the fall so no worries there
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This can be done in less then 10 minutes!!!
Sea-foam fogging oil comes with a spraying straw thats around 12" long, and its got a plastic guide loop that alllows you to make the straw have a nice ? shape to it. You will need to slide the plastic guid almost all the way down the straw so you can get down below the tubes in the airbox.
All you have to do is remove hood, remove airbox riser (extension) and posistion out of your way and plug the map sensor that attached to it back in. Now you take your special made straw and place it down through the tubes in the air-box and you can spray directly into the throttle bodies. You might also want to tape a thin metal rod to the straw so you can bend it exactly the way you want. Clothes hanger wire, tig welding rod etc.
Start engine, hold rpms up and you will know right away when its spraying directly into the throttle bodies, it will almost kill the motor. Do both cylinders. You will have fogging oil running out of the airbox drains.
Eric
Sea-foam fogging oil comes with a spraying straw thats around 12" long, and its got a plastic guide loop that alllows you to make the straw have a nice ? shape to it. You will need to slide the plastic guid almost all the way down the straw so you can get down below the tubes in the airbox.
All you have to do is remove hood, remove airbox riser (extension) and posistion out of your way and plug the map sensor that attached to it back in. Now you take your special made straw and place it down through the tubes in the air-box and you can spray directly into the throttle bodies. You might also want to tape a thin metal rod to the straw so you can bend it exactly the way you want. Clothes hanger wire, tig welding rod etc.
Start engine, hold rpms up and you will know right away when its spraying directly into the throttle bodies, it will almost kill the motor. Do both cylinders. You will have fogging oil running out of the airbox drains.
Eric
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there thats what I was trying to explain, lol!
that is exactly what I did
that is exactly what I did
We just took off the secondary clutch, pulled the chrome tape on the air box down as far as you could (carefully), drilled a 1 3/8" diam. hole with a hole saw through the air box..........put a small extension on the spray nozzle for the fogging oil with a 90 degree bend at the end & fogged the sled directly into each throttle body as per instructions until sled quit...........sealed hole with duct tape, then put chrome tape back in place over duct tape........hole is sealed & everything is covered to the naked eye..........15 minutes done & no hassle taking half your sled apart, next year will be even quicker cause the hole is already in place..............cheers.
Could you please send me a picture where exactly you drilled in the airbox? Would not want to screw this up. Also, were you worried about getting plastic shavings inside the airbox?
1. You really should be changing the fuel filter at least once a season. IMHO, this one shouldn't be overlooked.
2. To change the fuel filter without gymnastics, you need to tear down the clutch side just as far as you do to fog the motor.
3. I tear down and take the horns out, change filter, fog, and completely reassemble.
4. The biggest downside to fogging the motor in this sequence - you have to partially reassemble the clutch cover and electronics to run the sled with fogging oil, then pull the clutch cover off again to put the horns and box top back in. The partial reassembly isn't hard, nothing has to be tightened, just electronics carefully snapped back together. When it's over, I'm done for a year (with the grace of God.) FWIW.
If you're changin pistons, injectors, etc., over the summer, you have to tear it down anyways.
2. To change the fuel filter without gymnastics, you need to tear down the clutch side just as far as you do to fog the motor.
3. I tear down and take the horns out, change filter, fog, and completely reassemble.
4. The biggest downside to fogging the motor in this sequence - you have to partially reassemble the clutch cover and electronics to run the sled with fogging oil, then pull the clutch cover off again to put the horns and box top back in. The partial reassembly isn't hard, nothing has to be tightened, just electronics carefully snapped back together. When it's over, I'm done for a year (with the grace of God.) FWIW.
If you're changin pistons, injectors, etc., over the summer, you have to tear it down anyways.
X
xc6rider
Well-known member
This is what Prose did, only a few extra precaution steps taken, and more of a complete idea.
Take the time to take the box off once, do this mod, and then it's as simple as pulling the side cover, belt and secondary... Quick, and easy fogging. You really should fog these things frequently... If you're a weekend rider, give it a shot for it to sit through the week!
Got a 7/8" hole grommet, and plug for it. Drilled it, clean out all the plastic, install the grommet and plug. Then made a formed tube extension out of 1/4" ID copper tube with small fuel line inside of it. The smaller diameter hose and shorter the tube, the better it will spray, and not just drip. You can get very small fuel hose at most small engine (stihl dealers).
Once this is done, just pull the secondary and belt, pop the plug out, and fog away!
Hopefully the pix turn out ok. And evidently not! haha Sorry for the neck strain...
Take the time to take the box off once, do this mod, and then it's as simple as pulling the side cover, belt and secondary... Quick, and easy fogging. You really should fog these things frequently... If you're a weekend rider, give it a shot for it to sit through the week!
Got a 7/8" hole grommet, and plug for it. Drilled it, clean out all the plastic, install the grommet and plug. Then made a formed tube extension out of 1/4" ID copper tube with small fuel line inside of it. The smaller diameter hose and shorter the tube, the better it will spray, and not just drip. You can get very small fuel hose at most small engine (stihl dealers).
Once this is done, just pull the secondary and belt, pop the plug out, and fog away!
Hopefully the pix turn out ok. And evidently not! haha Sorry for the neck strain...
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