Let me know what weights you go with to bring your rpms down. Mine is the exact same way. Stock primary and secondary clutch setups but final rpm is 7750. By the way its an 05 Fusion 900
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FLAT-LAND switchback & rmk thread!!!
- Thread starter danduvall
- Start date
I am going with cutler adj weights, that way I can fine tune them...but we still dont have crap for snow in MI, so I havent been able to mess with it yet. Trying to find the helix still right now also.
T
TrailRebel
Well-known member
Has anyone attempted the VES mod for their flatlander? Last year I did this, and can say that it did have a very positive impact. However, when trailriding, it seems as though the valves are not opening quick enough, and the sled has a delay in power...what springs has anyone used?
7041704-05, Yellow-- 2.4/3.6
7041704-04 Purple--3.1/4.7 - (stock)
7041704-05, Yellow-- 2.4/3.6
7041704-04 Purple--3.1/4.7 - (stock)
I run that helix in mine switchback and like it alot I also went with the 24/39 gearing and it is very snappy all the way to 100 I run the 78g weights but I have the slp package porting ect. One note on t he 719 helix it does not work well in reverse unless you you cut the reverse deeper I had too.
TrailRebel;2973485]Has anyone attempted the VES mod for their flatlander? Last year I did this, and can say that it did have a very positive impact. However, when trailriding, it seems as though the valves are not opening quick enough, and the sled has a delay in power...what springs has anyone used? what mod you talking about, I did the one with the new seals and such and it works great.I posted it up on snowest in the 900 forums a while back
7041704-05, Yellow-- 2.4/3.6
7041704-04 Purple--3.1/4.7 - (stock)[/QUOTE]
7041704-05, Yellow-- 2.4/3.6
7041704-04 Purple--3.1/4.7 - (stock)[/QUOTE]
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danduvall
Well-known member
im wanting a bigger lugged track for my switchback! looking at the camo series 4 2", i can get those pretty cheap. and they look like pretty decent tracks with pretty beefy lugs to stand up to packed snow conditions. has anyone run one of these tracks? and how will a 2" lug fit in the switchback tunnel? i will NOT be studding the new track! im thinking i'll probably leave it the full 2" initially, but wind up trimming the tips of the lugs off making it a 1.75"
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TrailRebel
Well-known member
Another little trick...
I blew up a shock and front swing arm last year. Rather than replacing the stock Fox PS-5, I found a Walker Evans out of a 900 Fusion. Although the lengths appear different on paper, when the shock is mounted in the top hole on the swing arm with the limiter straps all the way out (bottom hole), there is still more shock travel than there is swing arm travel(with limiters, obviously).
I always found the valving on the PS-5 too soft, and the WE has a 16 click adjustment on the reservoir. Even at the lightest compression adjustment, the shock is slightly stiffer than the stock PS-5.
Last weekend, I played around with the settings, and found my perfect spot to be either #2 or #3 on the reservoir.
FYI
I blew up a shock and front swing arm last year. Rather than replacing the stock Fox PS-5, I found a Walker Evans out of a 900 Fusion. Although the lengths appear different on paper, when the shock is mounted in the top hole on the swing arm with the limiter straps all the way out (bottom hole), there is still more shock travel than there is swing arm travel(with limiters, obviously).
I always found the valving on the PS-5 too soft, and the WE has a 16 click adjustment on the reservoir. Even at the lightest compression adjustment, the shock is slightly stiffer than the stock PS-5.
Last weekend, I played around with the settings, and found my perfect spot to be either #2 or #3 on the reservoir.
FYI
S
sno_mo_racer
Well-known member
I hate the PPS shocks also, they are designed to with a sleeve in the shock body with little holes so when the shock is travellin in the middle of stroke it really softens the shock to make it feel soft. Designed for groomed trails only IMO.
on the XC's we were able to braze the holes closed and get rid of it to make it like a zo pro shock. But on the PS5 that is not possible. So what I did was get a shock body the same size without the bypass valves and made a zero pro. Valved to my weight and riding, then got a rezzy from Frank @ Shock Tec with hi/low speed compression for adjustability. Now prefer it over the walker needle clicker.
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TrailRebel
Well-known member
So, I finally got around to a little bit of clutching work. I found a used set of 10-76's on ebay, so I snatched them up. As of right now, I'm still not happy with my setup.
10-76
Polaris Blue 120 - 300
66-44-42
TEAM Black/White 160 - 260
115 Belt
24/40 gearing
171 Golddiggers, steel backers, stock 1.25 Ripsaw
The sled pulls harder than it did before, I gained a little more top end (109 from 103) but rpms pop from 7650 to 7700 while accelerating. When boondocking, recall on the tach is always 7800. Clutches and the belt are always cool.
Does the sled not like the gearing? Would too stiff of a secondary spring do this? More flyweight? Less final rate primary spring? Which way should I turn?
10-76
Polaris Blue 120 - 300
66-44-42
TEAM Black/White 160 - 260
115 Belt
24/40 gearing
171 Golddiggers, steel backers, stock 1.25 Ripsaw
The sled pulls harder than it did before, I gained a little more top end (109 from 103) but rpms pop from 7650 to 7700 while accelerating. When boondocking, recall on the tach is always 7800. Clutches and the belt are always cool.
Does the sled not like the gearing? Would too stiff of a secondary spring do this? More flyweight? Less final rate primary spring? Which way should I turn?
Yes a secondary spring with too.much finish pressure will raise rpms. You might try something like red/black Polaris 140/240 I would guess rpms.drop 100 from your 260 finish spring
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TrailRebel
Well-known member
Kirk, thanks for your help. I put the black/white spring in because I heard that the red/black spring didn't have enough belt squeeze. I'll try the red/black spring this weekend.
I appreciate your help!
Tap'd from my GNex
I appreciate your help!
Tap'd from my GNex
I think your primary spring needs more finish. Those heavy weights are overcoming the spring too early. I would say an SLP blue/pink (140/340) or black/pink (120/340) depending on your engagement preference.
T
TrailRebel
Well-known member
I thought that a lighter finish rate on the primary has the same effect as heavier flyweights. So wouldn't a higher finishing rate spring bring up RPM's?
Tap'd from my GNex
ttt
Needing some help for gearing and clutching on an 05 900 Switchback... I want to see the max I can get out of my 900 switchback.... Do you guys have any suggestions to weights, springs, helixes and gearing I should be running to get the most out of it on a hard packed surface?
I'm familiar with 600's and 700's but the 900 is a fairly new animal to me so any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
I'm familiar with 600's and 700's but the 900 is a fairly new animal to me so any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Came across this thread and having problems with the belt getting hung up on the secondary and not disengaging so I figured I'd start there going through the clutching on my Fusion. There's a Team Helix with 56-40-F-ER & 420488 numbers on it. And it has a red/black spring on the secondary. I was reading the black/white spring is a good one to go with so I was thinking of going with that. Anyone have any recommendations? Mods are...
06 Fusion HTG 975, 136" track, HTG exhaust, Boondocker fuel controller, dual EGT's, gutted intake, being trail ridden in Wisconsin. Those are the major mods anyway. I know the nitrous will require different clutching but that'll come later. I don't plan on using that for anything but radar runs.
06 Fusion HTG 975, 136" track, HTG exhaust, Boondocker fuel controller, dual EGT's, gutted intake, being trail ridden in Wisconsin. Those are the major mods anyway. I know the nitrous will require different clutching but that'll come later. I don't plan on using that for anything but radar runs.
Your clutch is hanging up? Take it apart and make sure there are delrin washers between the spring and clutch sheave.... If there isn't order a couple up and place them between the spring and sheave so that it moves freely
Tried that, still doing it... mostly in reverse. I think I'm going to put a different spring in it.
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