FLAT-LAND switchback & rmk thread!!!

[TrailRebel]

Also will be adding scratchers...thinking of trying the cable type? anyone had experience with these good or bad?

I've heard the cable type just beats the crap out of the bottom of your sled. Everyone on here has good luck with the RSI or Holz's scratchers. Just remember to lift em before you hit the PERC!

Sent from my dinc using Tapatalk

 

[MORSNO]

Also will be adding scratchers...thinking of trying the cable type? anyone had experience with these good or bad?

I've been running Holz scratchers on my 07 D7 for 5 seasons, but I am putting Slidekicks on this year after having them on my 2010 RMK for the past 2 seasons. The Slidekicks have worked great, most people have issues if they aren't installed correctly. Seriously, I've seen them installed with the wrong end at the rail or not turned down far enough to scratch the snow properly. No more having to stop and raise/lower your scratchers with changing snow conditions and you can back up effortlessly. We have dry snow and very rarely ride on icy trails so they work fine for here in AK.

 

[river]

any one try different gearing on there switch? stock is 24/37 was going to try 22/41 any one try this or something close? if so what did you notice. thanks

 

[Goinboardin]

If these sleds use 9 tooth 2.52" pitch drivers...
With 22/41 your top speed would be 87.6mph @7600 RPM
With 24/37 your top speed would be 106mph @7600 RPM

The 24/37 obviously has a significantly higher top speed. The 22/41 would probably be alot snappier, but may be difficult to get a shorter track (especially without studs) to hook up to make use of the bottom end grunt associated with that gearing.

DISCLAIMER face-icon-small-ton): I don't have any experience with these gears, and have only ridden a nine a handful of times, and it was an RMK anyway.

 

[06 RMK 900]

I didn't have good luck with the cable scratchers. They didn't put enough down pressure on the really hard pack and the ice. This year the only mod for me is going to take off my a-arms and rails and attempt to paint those.

 

[SnowScooter]

What are your guys thoughts on the 719 helix for a basically stock 2005 900? Gearing is stock, No motor mods besides mounts and torque arms. It has a 1.5" X 121" ripsaw track that will eventually be studded, an SLP can, and will be putting heavier weights in to bring the rpm down a touch. Would that helix not work well with that track? I ride primarily trails btw. Im just confused, b/c every site I read info on this helix, people are back and forth whether its good or bad?...and I dont want to blow the cash if its not worth it, rather spend it on other areas of the sled.

 

[TrailRebel]

What are your guys thoughts on the 719 helix for a basically stock 2005 900? Gearing is stock, No motor mods besides mounts and torque arms. It has a 1.5" X 121" ripsaw track that will eventually be studded, an SLP can, and will be putting heavier weights in to bring the rpm down a touch. Would that helix not work well with that track? I ride primarily trails btw. Im just confused, b/c every site I read info on this helix, people are back and forth whether its good or bad?...and I dont want to blow the cash if its not worth it, rather spend it on other areas of the sled.

Basically you're just looking to get the first number between 64 - 68, the second number between 44 - 48, and the last number .46...It's a MAJOR improvement over stock(mileage skyrockets!) but it will bring your final RPM's up a hair. I think on mine, it brought final up to 7750, which is a hair too high, and I plan on finding heavier weights to fix that. These sleds with a stock engine should be clutched to 7600.

 

[SnowScooter]

Leave the springs alone or should I swap to a different spring too? Weights are a definite for me as I'm already too high, what do most people end up with? I ordered 11-76 weights...should I go heavier?

 

[Jerseyrider]

I have the wire scratchers on my 151 that I put a 144 skid and track for trail riding. The sled generally stays around 140F - 150F on the trail, even on the frozen lakes of MN. I have the Holtz scratchers on my other 151 and the temps are about the same. I like the wires better on the flat as we tend to go into reverse more than if you are in the deep and it is a pain to get off and pull up the scratchers...if you remember. I runined 2 wire scratchers last year and one already this year on my 151. Just forgot to put them up when in reverse.

 

[sno_mo_racer]

Leave the springs alone or should I swap to a different spring too? Weights are a definite for me as I'm already too high, what do most people end up with? I ordered 11-76 weights...should I go heavier?

that depends on how high are your rpms right now. think the 05 fusion was 10-74 stock weights as my 06 fusion was. 05 target should be about 7300 rpm and 06 7600. The 11 series weits 76 is the biggest they make. You can ge adjustable ones if you need heavier. I would prefer the daltons as you can change there weight with them still on the sled and no guess work like the slp where you will need to go heavire weight then your target,ie. if you want 76 gram weits thenyou will have to make them maybe 80 grams? Plus they are hammer rivets so a pita to change and tune in, would have to grindthe rivets off every time you aren't at target.

For a flatland helix try the 66-44-.46 or 70-46-.46or something in that range. 140-260 secondary spring, pirmary is based on what your rpms are and how hig of an engagement is. I have tried the 140 and 165 start weights in the primary springs which are great for racing and holeshot but for trail riding it is a pain to run at lower rpms, would always have to be riding at higher rpms with those springs.

 

[SnowScooter]

The highest RPM I hit has been 7800, but its usually around 7600. I would like to go with dalton weights but they are a bit pricey...is there a cheaper alternative?

 

[ttreewalkerr]

25/37 to 24/37

I gained in launch, and top speed... My delay running thru 90 mph has been eliminated.
MPG has remained same.

Clutch is now moving like it should.. Clutch is all stock, with stock older springs. WOT hangs at 7400 then drops to 7350 at 100mph... i let off at 100.... it has more to go but i don't like going over 100 on trail,,, No lakes froze solid in Mich. yet.

 

[Newfusion900]

I gained in launch, and top speed... My delay running thru 90 mph has been eliminated.
MPG has remained same.

Clutch is now moving like it should.. Clutch is all stock, with stock older springs. WOT hangs at 7400 then drops to 7350 at 100mph... i let off at 100.... it has more to go but i don't like going over 100 on trail,,, No lakes froze solid in Mich. yet.

So all you did is dropped a tooth on the top gear? I may have to do this when I change out my chaincase cover.

 

[TriumphoverU]

Basically you're just looking to get the first number between 64 - 68, the second number between 44 - 48, and the last number .46...It's a MAJOR improvement over stock(mileage skyrockets!) but it will bring your final RPM's up a hair. I think on mine, it brought final up to 7750, which is a hair too high, and I plan on finding heavier weights to fix that. These sleds with a stock engine should be clutched to 7600.

Why does the last number have to be .46? I see you have a range for the first two numbers, but not for the last number. The famous 719 helix's last number is .42

What effect will the .42 have vs. the .46?

Anyone want to try to educate me on this?

 

[sno_mo_racer]

Why does the last number have to be .46? I see you have a range for the first two numbers, but not for the last number. The famous 719 helix's last number is .42

What effect will the .42 have vs. the .46?

Anyone want to try to educate me on this?

On the 719 66-44-42-E (.46/.25/.25) & 70-46-42-E (.46/.25/.25) it has 3 angles and in brackets are the distance in inches of each angle. On the stock helix the finish angle is same as the fusions 42*(not sure about sb or rmk's) which I found out was still too low but the starts helped the bottom/mid range.

And the other helixes with just 2 angles say for example 66-44-.46 the first is 66* angle for bottom end, 44* angle for full shift out, and the .46 is how far the first angle travels before it reaches the other angle. So for flatland you would want around 66-44-.46 to 70-46-.46. For in the steep and deep maybe a lower start angle so would help so won't trench as bad.

 

[ttreewalkerr]

So all you did is dropped a tooth on the top gear? I may have to do this when I change out my chaincase cover.

Yes, top,,, from stock 25 to 24.. Same chain.

20 bucks !

 

[TriumphoverU]

On the 719 66-44-42-E (.46/.25/.25) & 70-46-42-E (.46/.25/.25) it has 3 angles and in brackets are the distance in inches of each angle. On the stock helix the finish angle is same as the fusions 42*(not sure about sb or rmk's) which I found out was still too low but the starts helped the bottom/mid range.

And the other helixes with just 2 angles say for example 66-44-.46 the first is 66* angle for bottom end, 44* angle for full shift out, and the .46 is how far the first angle travels before it reaches the other angle. So for flatland you would want around 66-44-.46 to 70-46-.46. For in the steep and deep maybe a lower start angle so would help so won't trench as bad.

Thanks for clearing that up. I finally understand now. I didnt realize that we were comparing a 2 angle helix to a 3 angle helix. Appreciate the help bud!

 

[Newfusion900]

Yes, top,,, from stock 25 to 24.. Same chain.

20 bucks !

Where did you get yours at?

 

[ttreewalkerr]

Where did you get yours at?

Ebay..

it was like 17.00 bucks plus 7.00 shipping.

Everyone plays with gears so much there are all kinds sizes.

Hyvo

 

[river]

I have the 900 switchback and was wanting to try dif gearing stock is 24/37 I've tried the 39 bottom gear and it was more snappy but lost top end by 10 mph has any one tried the 25t gear on the switchback with the 37 or the 39 if so did you like it thanks