Also make sure that the thick part of the ski rubber faces forward. Don't ask. 
Fighting the front ski
- Thread starter h2orider
- Start date
H
Okay, I moved the clamps back. I used some previously drilled holes. They may be a bit too far back, but hopefully it's better then where I had them.
I'm crossing my fingers that I'll finally be able to enjoy a ride!
Thanks again for your advice!
I'm crossing my fingers that I'll finally be able to enjoy a ride!
Thanks again for your advice!
Nothing will fix it like the new ski and center keel.
D
I would agree with you but I think your overlooking one major thing the OP talked about. Hes not only having trouble on the trail hes fighting in the deep stuff also, that screams bad set up.
I've seen it where the lower most part of the ski bracket is installed backwards, perhaps that's the case here?
Take a pic and post it up of the way your ski/spindle looks from the side
Jon
Take a pic and post it up of the way your ski/spindle looks from the side
Jon
D
X
Isn't that a gen II Ski
The Gen II is a hand full I still have one on 1 of our 2011 MH.
The new T/S ski is better than the gen II all situations except going across pavement and low snow base conditions.
Until you get the new T/S ski on the trail try letting the bike lean to the out side of the corner and let it ride on the center carbide and out side angle iron.
I agree your's could use more trail. I made plates for mine with standard forks when I increased the trail on the 2011 Spindle. 2012+ added material to the ears for more rotation.
The Gen II is a hand full I still have one on 1 of our 2011 MH.
The new T/S ski is better than the gen II all situations except going across pavement and low snow base conditions.
Until you get the new T/S ski on the trail try letting the bike lean to the out side of the corner and let it ride on the center carbide and out side angle iron.
I agree your's could use more trail. I made plates for mine with standard forks when I increased the trail on the 2011 Spindle. 2012+ added material to the ears for more rotation.
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H
UPDATE:
I moved the spindle to 1/8" and also got the new ski from TS.
Wow - what a difference. That did the trick. I can't believe how hard it was to ride and with those few adjustments I feel like I'm on a cloud.
Thanks to all for your advice!
I moved the spindle to 1/8" and also got the new ski from TS.
Wow - what a difference. That did the trick. I can't believe how hard it was to ride and with those few adjustments I feel like I'm on a cloud.
Thanks to all for your advice!
H
Yes, moved the spindle as you suggested. Then bought the new ski. I feel like I'm riding on a cloud now - what a difference.
Thanks for the suggestions - that did the trick. I'm having a blast now.
I just read through the Timbersled instructions and I too am a bit confused.
"For proper placement rotate the spindle until the back of the fork clamp is between flush and 1/4" to the back edge of the spindle".
The further back the ski is located, the better the trail ride quality.
The further forward the ski is located better the off trail handling.
However, wouldn't a larger gap between the fork tube and spindle move the ski forward and a smaller move the ski to the rear for a better trail ride?
How does 1/8" work compared to 1/4"?
"For proper placement rotate the spindle until the back of the fork clamp is between flush and 1/4" to the back edge of the spindle".
The further back the ski is located, the better the trail ride quality.
The further forward the ski is located better the off trail handling.
However, wouldn't a larger gap between the fork tube and spindle move the ski forward and a smaller move the ski to the rear for a better trail ride?
How does 1/8" work compared to 1/4"?
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Here's a mind teaser , So has the bike kit changed it's design to compensate for the lift the new ski height has on a level surface ? Compared to what the old ski had ? Are the forks readjusted in the clamps ?
Now that's getting dialed in , better get the tape measure out
Now that's getting dialed in , better get the tape measure out
T
Here's a mind teaser , So has the bike kit changed it's design to compensate for the lift the new ski height has on a level surface ? Compared to what the old ski had ? Are the forks readjusted in the clamps ?
Now that's getting dialed in , better get the tape measure out
It's not really a factor in snow. The center keel sinks into the snow.
True , what would make the difference is the approach angle of the track and since the approach angle has been changed so does the way the suspension perform . Simple things like ski pressure , floatation , loading and even how well the suspension travels . That's getting pretty darn finicky .
You know there's only two kinds of racers.... Cheaters and Loosers
You know there's only two kinds of racers.... Cheaters and Loosers
S
ski set
if you put a quarter inch there on a ktm 450 exc the bottom ski bolt will be a head of the fork axel not the trailing that timbersled talks about mine jumps around on the trail or in ruts a lot in the snow its fine. I slid mine back so the clamp is even with back and i could only get about half inch of trailing
if you put a quarter inch there on a ktm 450 exc the bottom ski bolt will be a head of the fork axel not the trailing that timbersled talks about mine jumps around on the trail or in ruts a lot in the snow its fine. I slid mine back so the clamp is even with back and i could only get about half inch of trailing
