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Fastrax Drop and Roll install tips

I'm completing my Fastrax drop and roll. It's my first one, and I thought I'd share some tips I learned and hopefully I can save someone else a little hassle.

1) timing hole: The directions say to tape off the holes on the mag side so debris doesn't get in. Great. I thought I did that. But, what I did not see, (it was blocked by my coolant hose) is the LARGE hole on top of the recoil housing with the timing mark. They probably wrote it in a way others would understand, but this rookie missed that detail. Perhaps my bad can save others the hassle of removing the cover to clean out junk. (not much, but better to check)


2) machine screws: on the right footwell, just behind the new rock guard, I think we are supposed to use rivets to attach all that stuff back together. I chose to use 3 nice machine screws and nuts with red loctite instead of rivets. When I went to put the rivets in, they didn't appear to have much bite. I feel more comfortable with screws at that location.


3) Brake rotor cut-out: I didn't like the idea of the opening around the brake rotor not being covered up. Maybe I'm a little conservative about this, but I wanted to reduce the amount of snow that could be pushed into the engine bay. I fabbed up a little hunk of aluminum, and riveted it in place, then used some RTV around the seam. Maybe it's not needed, but I feel better, and that's what really matters. I attached a pic. The first one is of the brake rotor cover.
Brakecover.jpg
[/IMG]
4) Jackshaft secondary side bearing cut-out: Similar to the above scenario, I didn't want snow pumped into my engine compartment, and in this case, I know it's a sealed bearing, but still, I feel better with it covered and sealed. I attached a pic, it's the second one.
jackshaftbearingcover.jpg
[/IMG]

Overall, I think the kit is great! Curt and Justin have been fantastic to deal with on the phone, and I'm grateful for their help.

Anyone else have any suggestions or ideas?

PE
 
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Just curious about how long it takes to do the drop and roll, and also do you move the skid back with the fastrax drop and roll.
 
time involved: that's hard to say. My mobility has been limited due to injury, and also had out of town company, so things took way longer than they normally would. I'm blessed to have a nice compliment of tools, so that's a big help. I think Fastrax estimates about 8 hrs to do it if you are familiar with tools, etc., and I would say that's fair. I bet my second one would be much faster.


Skid relocation: yes, it does move the skid a bit. It comes with new backing plates for the front mount which moves the mount both down, and to the rear. The rear mount is moved simply backwards, and the skid is re-drilled. When I think about it, the rails stay pretty well where they were, but the suspension linkage is what is moved. Does that make sense?
 
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time involved: that's hard to say. My mobility has been limited, so things took way longer than they normally would. I'm blessed to have a nice compliment of tools, so that's a big help. I think Fastrax estimates about 8 hrs to do it if you are familiar with tools, etc., and I would say that's fair. I bet my second one would be much faster.


Skid relocation: yes, it does move the skid a bit. It comes with new backing plates for the front mount which moves the mount both down, and to the rear. The rear mount is moved simply backwards, and the skid is re-drilled. When I think about it, the rails stay pretty well where they were, but the suspension linkage is what is moved. Does that make sense?

polar, it moves both the arms back in the tunnel and the rails back on the arms..so yes the skid goes rearward......
 
:)I have made exactly the same thing this summer!!
I made block of plates for all holes ....
Have you looked on the back side of the mag housing...
Its all vented and you dont want any debris there...
Ed
 
How about belts, does it take the same belt. does the center to center on the clutches stay close to the same with moving the jackshaft down.
 
AKSNOWRIDER - thanks for the correction, with all that my mind got jumbled up (easy to do)

IQ? / Ed, - yes, I know the recoil housing is vented. I popped mine off after my install, as I listed and I noticed the inside was smeared with a thin film of (what looks like) graphite grease. From what I have gathered, this is how they come, but can anyone tell me why? I left mine alone, but really wanted to clean it up.


Cascadesnowjunky - it is my understanding that the belt remains the same. I dug up an old thread a couple days ago with regards to what choice for a belt, and I've decided to go with the 115 that is OE on the D8. I know its more $, but from the majority of the reviews, it holds up better, to the point where it is more cost effective than the cheaper 080 belt. (I know and read there are objections to this, but that's my choice)

oh, and the best price I have found so far, is the dirtcheapsnow.com for the belt. They are advertising $147 each for that belt. Anyone got it cheaper? I'd like to know before I buy 2.
 
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AKSNOWRIDER - thanks for the correction, with all that my mind got jumbled up (easy to do)

IQ? / Ed, - yes, I know the recoil housing is vented. I popped mine off after my install, as I listed and I noticed the inside was smeared with a thin film of (what looks like) graphite grease. From what I have gathered, this is how they come, but can anyone tell me why? I left mine alone, but really wanted to clean it up.


Cascadesnowjunky - it is my understanding that the belt remains the same. I dug up an old thread a couple days ago with regards to what choice for a belt, and I've decided to go with the 115 that is OE on the D8. I know its more $, but from the majority of the reviews, it holds up better, to the point where it is more cost effective than the cheaper 080 belt. (I know and read there are objections to this, but that's my choice)

oh, and the best price I have found so far, is the dirtcheapsnow.com for the belt. They are advertising $147 each for that belt. Anyone got it cheaper? I'd like to know before I buy 2.

hey polar, when you get your belts..wash/scrub them really good with hot soapy water(I actually throw mine in the dishwasher..but I am a single parent so I dont have to worry about the little lady complaining)..it does make a difference in how well the belts hold up...
 
:)I have made exactly the same thing this summer!!
I made block of plates for all holes ....
Have you looked on the back side of the mag housing...
Its all vented and you dont want any debris there...
Ed

Those are pretty large. Might just have to make a good excuse to pull the motor for this job?

Did you change tracks Polar E??
 
the belt stays the same, on the skid movement, the front arm goes back 1 1/4, and the rear arm assembly goes forward 5/8 on the rails and the mounting location on the drop bracket goes back 5/8 so you get the benefit of the chaincase roll but retain enough transfer to make the sled handle.
 
I think Fastrax estimates about 8 hrs to do it if you are familiar with tools, etc., and I would say that's fair. I bet my second one would be much faster.

Don't tell my wife it takes 8 hours or she will wonder why I spent all summer in the garage last year. :D
 
DiamondDave,

Yes, I am changing tracks to the 163 CH-EX track. I'm going with the factory 2.86 pitch, with Avid 8-tooth drivers. Mostly, I wanted that track, and I felt the D&R was the best way to get the clearance for it. I know I could have gone with the 7-tooth, 3.0 pitch, for even more room, but I didn't think I needed it, and wanted as large dia. driver as I could run, with enough clearance.
 
Handling??

PE

I would love know your feeedback on this kit after you get some seat time. I have an 08 D7 I am thinking about doing the same mods to. Please post your thoughts as to the pros and cons.

Thanks
 
Signdude,

I'll be happy to post what I think after some seat time. But, please know, I have never ridden a dragon before, so I won't have a baseline to compare to. I'm coming off of a 162 M7.

So far, the biggest reason I did the D&R was to clear room for the Ch-Ex track. The factory 5.1 has signs of rubbing on the top of the tunnel towards the front, specifically on the bottoms of the cooler extrusions. The Ch-Ex track is marketed as .1 inch longer paddles. I'm not sure if either are marketed as a 1-ply or 2-ply, and I really don't care. Side by side in my garage, they look about the same. But, I did just go in there and measure from the underside of the track to the end of the paddles on each, and the Ch-Ex measures ~2.625 on my vernier caliper, and the 5.1 measures ~2.5. So, by doing the drop and roll, I have a net gain of track to tunnel clearance.

The drop and roll does make removing the drive axle a little harder, or just more complicated. (I love the DD design on the 'cats) I am so deep into this project, I decided to go ahead and install the AVID products drivers at the same time. I heard from others varying degrees of problems with ice build-up in the gaps of the stock assembly. Coming from 'cat, I like the extrovert feature of the Avid drivers, and they have a reputation of fantastic customer support. (my experience thus far confirms that reputation) I am currently waiting for the arrival of some drivers, so I can only go on hearsay that the chaincase has to be unbolted to get the axle in with the Avid drivers, as they are mounted much wider than the OE design. It certainly appears that is the case. I'm not looking forward to that process. :mad: At this point, that's the only con I can think of. The axle DOES go in and out with the chaincase tight with the stock driver setup though.

Others that have done this tell me the skid must be compressed a bit to get the skid mounting holes to line up, and the right size turnbuckle with hooks is a nifty way to do that, and save a lot of aggravation. I plan on trying that trick.

My sled was purchased used, and the former owner included a new set of rails, (old ones damaged) and I have access to a neighbor who powdercoats. I decided to have all the non coated skid items coated, so I'll have a fully black skid, (less the shocks) that will shed some snow, and look faster too. :D (I think that is good for at least 10 hp, right?)
 
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block off plate template

Oh, and I found my cutout template for that block off plate I took pics of in the beginning of the thread. It's for the brake rotor cutout with the lightweight rotor shape. if you want, send me a pm, with a fax #, and I'll send you a fax with the cutout tracing, and that will get you started. If you're doing your own D&R, you're probably smart enough to figure it out, but hey, I've done the work if you don't want to take the time. ;)
 
Polar,

Seeing as how you're in Marysville, maybe we can hook up for some testing. I'm gonna run the 5.1 this year so it would be cool to compare. I've debated going with the 156 Camo and 7 tooth's this season, but time isn't on my side. I'm very curious to see how your set-up works.

I do know that in our area withour conditions, the 5.1 sucks most of the time. I think I might end up doing F-Bombs track mod and riding it this year.
 
Diamond, I'm in, love to ride and compare, seeing as how I did all this without a baseline, I'd like to see if all this effort is actually worth it.

I considered the mod F-bomb detailed, but chose against it. I'm not saying it's a bad mod, I just had a couple reasons that had higher importance to me: one, I have always sold my take offs, and I figured that the mod would reduce the value, and two: I can remember shooting studs out of tires when spinning out on the studded snow tires, I didn't like the idea of screws going into the paddles, and and having a track potentially rotating that fast. I don't know if the screws actually would come out, but I'm not comfortable with that potential.

Now all we need is snow.
 
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