Fastrax D&R with a Timbersled 153" question

[iowarmk]

Ok...here is where I am at now. I have my D&R all done. Now I need to mount my new skid into tunnel. Directions for the D&R say to move the hole in the rails for the back pivot arm 5/8" I would follow directions if I still had stock skid and rails...but I have a timbersled suspension with 153" ice age rails. So...what should I move and how should I do it? I am posting a picture of where the new holes would be in the rails. My concern is that they will not be that strong if I drill them in the location according to the directions. Also...does the front pivot hole move in the rails or just the back? Do I move both lower shock holes as well? I think the FSTX D&R is like a total of 1.25". I will move the mounting holes on the tunnel back 5/8" like directions say...but what about skid....any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!

 

[iowarmk]

Here are the pics of the rails marked up for the new hole locations.

 

[Jkinzer]

to the best of my knowledge you and i are the first to run this exact combo. i am leaving my suspension set up like it came from timbersled. not moving any of the holes. i am moving the mounting points back in the tunnel as stated. i plan on running it this way, see if it feels off at all and then go from there. it wouldnt hurt to call Allen or Budd at T-sled and get their opinion on the matter either 208-255-5644

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I run the holz skid and when I did my drop and roll Curt and I decided to move just the tunnel mount on mine instead of the rail mount...so I moved the rear tunnel mount 1 1/4 inches total...Mine rides and handles even better then it did before the D&R, especially as far as over transfering...

 

[iowarmk]

So did you move the front hole and back hole on tunnel 1.25"? How did you go about moving the back hole that far?

 

[mountainhorse]

You WILL have big problems with your skid working properly...The location of the rear pivot arm on the skid and the shock position are critical and VERY VERY sensitive to even minute changes in location.

You best call up Allen Mangum, owner of Timbersled to chat about this one.

What you really need is the proper rails made for the setback.

 

[mountainhorse]

IMO... you will be missing the mark on the performance of your sled with all the upgrades you've added.

Everything needs to work as a system...

 

[Jkinzer]

i'll talk to allen in the morning and get his opinion and report back

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

So did you move the front hole and back hole on tunnel 1.25"? How did you go about moving the back hole that far?

I made my own tunnel with rear mounts.....and I agree with eric(MH)..talk to the man who built your suspension..I talked to both mark(holz) and Curt(fastrack) before doing what I did on mine...

 

[Jkinzer]

just got off the phone with allen and he said that it shouldnt really matter on the suspension. just be extra careful making sure that you drill the rear hole perfectly so the front and rear mounts are moved back exactly the same amount. So i'm just leaving my skid setup the way it is and moving the the mounts back in the tunnel as the FTX directions say to do so

 

[IQ?]

I have had the same issue with mine
I have D/R on My 163" turbo with
Timbersled before d/r sled was nimble
And handling was great.after D/R
Sled felt heavy and suspension was too soft.
I have tried different setups but i think
I have to move dropbrackets further
Back/new dropb.
But please post if you find à solution
Edvard

 

[iowarmk]

JKinzer

So are you saying you only moved tunnel holes 5/8" and used the FTX template for the front? And never moved anything on the skid??? Was you able to tighten the track up ok??

Thanks!!!

 

[Jkinzer]

i'm still waiting on my new rails so i havent been able to finish the install yet. but after talking with allen i'm using the front mounting hole template (already have it installed with new hole drilled) and will be moving the rear hole back just as the direction say and bolting the suspension into place with out moving the skid on the rails. since everything is getting moved back the same, i dont see why there would be any issue as far as tightening up the track. i should see my rails this week and have it possibly put back together this weekend. when it comes time i will take pics and post back again.

 

[mountainhorse]

Just to be clear here.... Justin is talking about the tunnel and brackets ONLY... NO new holes in the rails NOR moving shock positions.

Lots of geometry going on here.... Kinzer... IMO, make a "truth stick" for your drill guide so that your measurements are exactly the same on both sides... a piece of 3/4" wide steel flat stock by the dimension, center to center, bolt it in the front location... then use it as your drill or bolt guide for the rear location and DO NOT Cheeze out on the drop brackets... get new ones made if you have any doubt... do it right the first time and you wont find yourself stranded in the backcountry after taking a nice drop.

MY 2 cents.

Kinzer: just got off the phone with allen and he said that it shouldnt really matter on the suspension. just be extra careful making sure that you drill the rear hole perfectly so the front and rear mounts are moved back exactly the same amount. So i'm just leaving my skid setup the way it is and moving the the mounts back in the tunnel as the FTX directions say to do so

 

[iowarmk]

After talking to Curt today on the phone....Kinzer is on the right track. Only thing is that you need to move the back hole back and down the same as the front hole. Directions say I think just straight back. Of course they are for a stock skid. I am working on new brackets as we speak. In order to get the hole in the back drop bracket back and down...it ends up being on that rib in the bracket. I will get some pics up as soon as I determine how to redo/make new rear drop bracket.....and I am not going to change anything on the rails or suspension...and do agree MH...truth stick is a smart choice.

 

[mountainhorse]

IMO....

What you need to do is to email a bunch of photos to Allen with the description of just what was done... not "I put in a FTX" D&R.... give him the dimensions of the D&R... some pix of your install and what you have for track, rails, skid, drivers etc....

Then include your phone number so he can call you back and not have to type you a novel for a reply.

I think that Justin is going about it in a much better way... moving the drop brackets or better yet, have some new ones made and pony up the money for them.... IMO, money VERY well spent.

 

[iowarmk]

This is what I am doing as well. I did talk to Allen about the issue. Same story...suspension would be fine leaving as is...just make sure your tunnel holes both move the same amount and maintain the center dimension of those holes. So...like I had said earlier....new rear drop brackets with all the hole moves to the tunnel....nothing with the suspension. I have designed a new rear drop bracket up tonight that gives me the same amount of move as the front does. I will put the new bracket in cad tomorrow and cut it on the laser. I am also going to cut a truth stick like MH said to maintain my center dimension for the two tunnel holes. This away I can assure complete accuracy and alignment of holes on both side when installing new brackets. My new bracket design will mount to exsiting brackets. Will send pics of prototype brackets to Allen and Curt and see what they think. Once it works...I will post some pics up here of the new brackets as well. Thanks!!

 

[IQ?]

I might be intrested in a set of Dropbrackets/Or relocation.
Please keep us updated.
Ed

 

[iowarmk]

Sweet!!!!! I finally got my new suspension all mounted up. Thanks to great customer support from Fastrax and Timbersled!!! Awsome guys!! Anyway...long story short....I did it just like you would a custom built sled. Everything worked well and looks awsome. I made some custom adapter brackets for the back. They so far worked great for new hole location and did not have to change the stock drop brackets. Modify original a little....and bolt on the new and you are ready to go. Looks pretty good as well. Also can't belive how much better the sled rebounds back to its tall suspension after you compress it. Huge differance from the factory stuff. Anyway...I will be posting some pics soon of my build, I still need to button up the final details and get it all back together....now just need some snow!!!

 

[Jkinzer]

sweet! now lets see those pics!