Failed?....Torque Link Mount (rubber bushing)

[Murph]

^^^^^^
I had the same thought..... But then figured the engineers mystery of had the same thought also. For some reason they didn't built it that way-- vibration maybe?

Don't want to fix one thing-- motor twisting-- and cause a new issue--crank breaking.

 

[mountainhorse]

Some Questions for ya???

Murph,

Did you ever break a mount bolt last season?

Can you confirm that the bolts that mount the motor mount straps to the bulkhead are tight and not broken? (#13)

Did you actually pull out the torque arm... put a drift pin in the hole in the rubber and flex it to look for tears in the rubber or cracks in the arm?

Are the brackets on the bulkhead tight? (#2, 3, 5, 6,

Did you inspect the actual rubber motor mounts? (#11, 15, 20)

Is #9 securely bolted to the case and not cracked at all? (#7)

Is #3/5 securely bolted to the chassis?

Is the Jackshaft bearing in good shape? (IMO... replace that non-greasable suckker and have the peace of mind that goes with it.)

Did you disassemble the secondary and check for smooth operation and put in a new spring (you should have 2 brand new springs in there this season on the Pri and Sec)?

When the belt went at 900 miles... how did it "go"? (violent on a climb or on the trail etc)



BTW.. with that many miles and looking for another good season did you
Replace the pistons/rings?
New fuel filter?
Clean injectors?
Clean exhaust valves?
Replace oil filter on injection line?

2012 PRO RMK ENGINE MOUNTING​

.

 

[Murph]

Murph,

Did you ever break a mount bolt last season? No

Can you confirm that the bolts that mount the motor mount straps to the bulkhead are tight and not broken? (#13) No, not yet

Did you actually pull out the torque arm... put a drift pin in the hole in the rubber and flex it to look for tears in the rubber or cracks in the arm?No, just ordered a new one after watching the primary bolt shift rearward under load

Are the brackets on the bulkhead tight? (#2, 3, 5, 6, Need to confirm

Did you inspect the actual rubber motor mounts? (#11, 15, 20) Replaced with 2012 update, original 2011 were deformed from load

Is #9 securely bolted to the case and not cracked at all? (#7) Need to confirm

Is #3/5 securely bolted to the chassis? Need to confirm

Is the Jackshaft bearing in good shape? (IMO... replace that non-greasable suckker and have the peace of mind that goes with it.)No idea, need to confirm

Did you disassemble the secondary and check for smooth operation and put in a new spring (you should have 2 brand new springs in there this season on the Pri and Sec)?Primary completely rebuilt re machined by Carl's, will check secondary-- are you checking "smoothness" with spring removed?there are currently three delrins installed, will remove two

When the belt went at 900 miles... how did it "go"? (violent on a climb or on the trail etc)Not a catastrophic failure at all. Pulled cord out of side of belt. All other belt failures were same mode. All 115's. No catastrophic failures, just insane amounts of heat and pulled cords in shorter and shorter number of miles



BTW.. with that many miles and looking for another good season did you
Replace the pistons/rings? No, need to reinspect piston skirts and when cleaning exhaust valves
New fuel filter?Yes at 1500 miles
Clean injectors? No
Clean exhaust valves?Yes, four or five times, will do it again
Replace oil filter on injection line? Yes, funny looking little plastic filter


Need to reinstall primary on 2012 and fire it up and compare 2011 movement to 2012 movement

 

[FTXMOTORSPORTS]

I think the main objective of an engine plate is being missed:

an engine plate allows all 4 (or 6 in our case) engine mounts to work together no matter what direction the engine tries to shift--think about it a minute. With your stock separated straps, 2 mounts on each end of the engine are linked together which means that each end of that engine can move somewhat independantly of the other whether it be radial, vertical or horizontal. There is also substantial twisting of the case between the straps that will eventually cause issues with case and/or crank.
Not only does our plate allow all of the engine mounts to help in all directions, but we have also added a vertical "push bumper" under the mag front ear to eliminate the diving this corner of the assembly is subject to. (this was the cause of the dreaded broken mag bolt many experienced).

Long story short: with all the mounts working together, the loads on each mount are greatly reduced along with the movement each is subjected to which results in mounts that live and last without having to be huge or made of hard durometers. Clutch and belt life increase (unless your calibration or maintenance is substandard) and crank/case life is extended.

Curt

 

[mountainhorse]

Did you inspect the actual rubber motor mounts? (#11, 15, 20) Replaced with 2012 update, original 2011 were deformed from load

Have a look at the engine mounting diagram again...

#11, 15 & 20... Those do not come in the update kit and one or more could possibly be damaged.

Did you remove the engine and replace these 4 mounts?

As a note.

In the 2012 chassis... number 11 (1ea) MOUNT-ENGINE,PTO REAR (3022286)

and number 15(2ea, MOUNT-ENGINE (3022236) Mag side front & Rear

were changed from 2011 to 2012

The PTO front remained the same.

 

[mountainhorse]

Did you inspect the actual rubber motor mounts? (#11, 15, 20) Replaced with 2012 update, original 2011 were deformed from load

Have a look at the engine mounting diagram again...

#11, 15 & 20... Those do not come in the update kit and one or more could possibly be damaged.

Did you remove the engine and replace these 4 mounts?

As a note.

In the 2012 chassis... number 11 (1ea) MOUNT-ENGINE,PTO REAR (3022286)

and number 15(2ea, MOUNT-ENGINE (3022236) Mag side front & Rear

were changed from 2011 to 2012

The PTO front remained the same.






.

 

[Snodawg]

Hey Curt, not trying to argue with you here, but would just like a little more clarification. Aren't the two mount bars #10, fixed rigidly to the engine cases? Wouldn't this make it act like a solid plate? Or do the cases themselves have that much flex in them? Just curious.

I think the main objective of an engine plate is being missed:

an engine plate allows all 4 (or 6 in our case) engine mounts to work together no matter what direction the engine tries to shift--think about it a minute. With your stock separated straps, 2 mounts on each end of the engine are linked together which means that each end of that engine can move somewhat independantly of the other whether it be radial, vertical or horizontal. There is also substantial twisting of the case between the straps that will eventually cause issues with case and/or crank.
Not only does our plate allow all of the engine mounts to help in all directions, but we have also added a vertical "push bumper" under the mag front ear to eliminate the diving this corner of the assembly is subject to. (this was the cause of the dreaded broken mag bolt many experienced).

Long story short: with all the mounts working together, the loads on each mount are greatly reduced along with the movement each is subjected to which results in mounts that live and last without having to be huge or made of hard durometers. Clutch and belt life increase (unless your calibration or maintenance is substandard) and crank/case life is extended.

Curt

 

[mountainhorse]

I'm sure Curt will chime in here..

Just like the old days, two individual straps can act to induce "twist" into the block and take main-bearing line-bores out of alignment... this can cause other problems.

The plate allows everything to be tied together and not rely on a small casting to hold back 150+ HP (say 220 in a turbo). The mounting plate is more rigid than the stock straps and does not rely on the case to tie the loads together.






.

 

[FTXMOTORSPORTS]

Yep, MH said it correct. the case flexes since its only supported on each end (stock) and the case alone is not enough beef to keep each end from moving independently from each other.
The result can be fretted, loose bearing fits that take miles off the life of the crank and case.

This is nothing new guys, its a battle we've been fighting for many years to help these bottom ends live a longer life!

Curt

 

[Snodawg]

Thanks for explanation Eric and Curt.

That makes sense.

 

[mountainhorse]

Murph,

Whats the word??

 

[Murph]

In laws......

They are gone now. No snow in Tahoe (2012 has no miles).

2011 is in Santa Cruz with me. My 2012 replacement rubbers seem to fit pretty loose in the sleeves. Wondering if the sleeve inserts are worn out. You can see motor move up and down and the rubbers move inside the sleeves.

The PTO rear sleeve is located here:

13 1017942 ASM-BRACE LOWER LH | [Requires Adhesive][Incl. Sleeve] $36.89

Would rather wrap a long feeler gauge around the rubber and re insert versus deal with heating adhesive and re installing.

Also found what appeared to be a crack in that ASM-Brace lower LH-- my mechanical engineer GF tells me I'm paranoid and it is a casting seam. Any one else's have a seam there? Below primary, maybe 1-1.5 inches behind crank.

Wondering about warranty?.....

Keep you posted....