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Engine Temps / TRS Kit

beamslayer

Well-known member
Premium Member
I am just wondering what people are seeing for temps with the TRS $28 upgrade? Granted the temp was a little cooler than normal here low 20s to the teens usually it is 20s to the 30s . I could not get my sled over 114 deg all day riding in powder and it would drop to 86 deg after sitting for a beer break . It takes for ever to hit 100 while idling .
I just installed new rings and am running extra oil in the tank 1 qt . Plus I have my fuel controller set up to a rich setting for break in . So I guess I am wondering if this is normal temps ?
 
I was seeing 95-100 in snowy flatland fields with my terra alps setup (pretty much the same as the TRS kit).


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I am just wondering what people are seeing for temps with the TRS $28 upgrade? Granted the temp was a little cooler than normal here low 20s to the teens usually it is 20s to the 30s . I could not get my sled over 114 deg all day riding in powder and it would drop to 86 deg after sitting for a beer break . It takes for ever to hit 100 while idling .
I just installed new rings and am running extra oil in the tank 1 qt . Plus I have my fuel controller set up to a rich setting for break in . So I guess I am wondering if this is normal temps ?

Those are good numbers,Jim. No heat soak after beer break, awesome. It's working as designed.
 
It's the "$28 upgrade". There is a thread named that. Basically a remote mount thermostat like the ski doo xp used. I run the terra alps kit which is the same setup with a different housing/tstat.


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I was running into what I think was a small issue...running an SLP stage 4 and the mapping is increasing fuel in the 4000 to 5250 rpm range. Apparantly there is a warm up mode which when the pipe temps are cold and the enging temp falls below 90? degrees the engine retarts timing and dumps more fuel in to warm up the sled and pipe? It kept flooding everything out and running terrible. I was running at Cooke in deep powder and temps were running between 102 and 112. I cut down what the programmer was adding from 4000 to 5250 and it seemed to get alot better. I can probably take out more but with out running an auto tune or something to see where it is at I do not want to take a chance of hurting anything by running to lean.

Anybody else have this problem?
 
I thought the exhaust resistor in the kit took care of pipe sensor and 102 is not 90 degrees so,,, maybe the resistor is loose (I needed to solder on some better connectors on mine).

I did my own STG 4 and use the resistor to help with cold pipe in the trees, add fuel in that range to pull the clutching and extra air, TRS's BRP thermo, run 105 to 120, no issues.
 
Thanks I was a little concerned because I start rolling at 95 deg if I waited till it hit 100 I would be wanting another beer .
Thanks TRS for a great upgrade .
 
When my temps would get down to around 90 degrees it would start running rich again. It would not come out of that until it warmed up to around 110 for a bit and finally able to get enought rpm's to clear out the extra fuel. When it was burbling I would unhook the PCV and it would run fine...hook it back up again it would run to rich. That was what led me to the PCV program. It was much better when I changed the programming in that rpm range.

I have been running the Stage 4 for a year. Just put the by pass thermostat on last ride last April when it was warm already. I did not see any problem then. Even had a ride or 2 on it this winter before this showed up. Was thinking it ws a faulty sensor but after changing the program it got better. Acted like it was fouling plugs while it was flooding also.
 
Some others have reported getting into the 90's after the mod. On mine once it's over 100 it stay's there (usually around 105 to 114). If I do any pulls it never goes down.

That's the part that I don't understand. If the thermostat is working, how can you get below that temp unless it is stuck open.

I do know our doo dealer (pretty good parts guys) keeps them in stock because they move a few every year. Service dept. likes them.

When I started the season with the fresh top end, I started the sled in the shop (55 degrees) and it took 14 min. to get to thermo opening (104ish on my gauge-sender) at idle. In the field I let the temps get stable then put around for a bit til it comes up to temp. Little quicker I think lol.
 
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When I watch my temps going down a powdery trail I am usually at 111 degrees F. When climbing I see 110-120 in good snow. When going down a long hill without much throttle it will cool down to the 105 range. In some conditions when it was below 20 degrees ambient and I was above 6000 feet it feels like the sled starts idling rich at when temps are at or below 105. It doesn't seem to have any affect on the performance and once I get in the throttle the temps go back to 110+. If I shut down and chat for a few minutes after a restart the temps will start at 140 ish and then drop below 100 as I let it idle and put my gloves and helmet on. I don't think I have ever seen it below 90 after one of these breaks. Take off and it always runs good.
 
That's the part that I don't understand. If the thermostat is working, how can you get below that temp unless it is stuck open.


It takes time for the tstat to respond, when you are rapidly cooling the tstat does not close quick enough.



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It takes time for the tstat to respond, when you are rapidly cooling the tstat does not close quick enough.



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Is the t-stat close to the exhaust? Has it distorted from heat. Working correctly they close very quickly.
 
For the few that are having problems, please post pictures of your installs.
I have thousands of miles on my kit, and have not witnessed any of these issues. On the turbo and NA sled.
 
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Is the t-stat close to the exhaust? Has it distorted from heat. Working correctly they close very quickly.


They do mount close to the exhaust.

I have no problems with mine, just cooler running :)


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TRS what are you seeing for temps ? I run alot of venting on my sled so much I have to but a cover over my muff pot to make it heat . I also see 140 at start up but drops to high 80s quick .
 
TRS what are you seeing for temps ? I run alot of venting on my sled so much I have to but a cover over my muff pot to make it heat . I also see 140 at start up but drops to high 80s quick .

They run from 109-117*. Start up temps are a moving target, it is dependent on down time. Mine will max around 130*. In the stock configuration, 160-170* was the norm. My turbo sled has a lot of venting also.

The $28 upgrade thread has had an impact on PRO owners. They are now monitoring their running temps. Most PRO riders never gave it a second thought, prior to the thread.
 
When my temps would get down to around 90 degrees it would start running rich again. It would not come out of that until it warmed up to around 110 for a bit and finally able to get enought rpm's to clear out the extra fuel. When it was burbling I would unhook the PCV and it would run fine...hook it back up again it would run to rich. That was what led me to the PCV program. It was much better when I changed the programming in that rpm range.

I have been running the Stage 4 for a year. Just put the by pass thermostat on last ride last April when it was warm already. I did not see any problem then. Even had a ride or 2 on it this winter before this showed up. Was thinking it ws a faulty sensor but after changing the program it got better. Acted like it was fouling plugs while it was flooding also.

You are correct the stock mapping doesn't like temps below 98*F. My concern is how your temps are dropping so low. Thermo opens at 99*F.
 
You are correct the stock mapping doesn't like temps below 98*F. My concern is how your temps are dropping so low. Thermo opens at 99*F.

Sled only gets below 104 or so when stopping and shutting it off talking for a short time. If shut duwn for maybe 10 minutes then starting it will drop to the high 80's. and work up again. It does not necessarily happen with just that because when I start it it will run fine warming up again...but if only mid throttle for a few minutes I think with that particular mapping it was just dumping to much fuel. Would take quite a bit of pinned throttle to get it cleared out. That is what the tech at SLP was thinking. As I said when it does blubber I can unhook the power commander and it will run fine. Do not to run it much that way or very hard cause it will be too lean than. It basically happened in Cooke...temps were cold and alot of deep powder. When it cleaned out it would run like a raped ape. I do not want to change it I think I just need to find a way to fine tune the map with the lower temps. Probably have to go with an auto tune. First few times out this season temps were warm and never noticed the problem much. Cold temps seem to amplify it. 4 of the 5 days in Cooke it would run terrible the first 15 minutes in the morning...after that was flawless the rest of the day. The last day it was worse but I think part of that was plug caps cause it never quit missing and finally went back to town and changed plugs and caps had lots of carbon on the plugs so I changed them as well then all was good. At 10200 feet it woud pull the EPI 62's to 8350 rpm's on the hill.
 
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