But how long would that failure take to appear, 150k mi? We never see that mileage on bikes that we are talking about here. SOme street bikes are actually designed to go that far before read down, but my bike has a tear down schedule of 100 hours!
Engine Oils
- Thread starter sorsy1
- Start date
even though Rekluse NOW says they don't feel the need for the heavy wedges, I was getting slippage in the winter with Amsoil 0-40 but it did start better, Then put heavy wedges in and no more slippage, I do use Rotella all summer long but really want to stay with a 0 weight to get it started as the KTM's don't have a Kicker,,, this season I got a good deal on ski doo XPS thats 0-40 full syn for the Can Am spyder that is wet clutch rated, was cheap enough so I will try that this season dealer has it bulk!
How hard you are really running something, conditions, rider habits, and even the type of bike you have all can play a part on what oil you can use and how often it needs changed. I've tried using the Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic oil in my quads (as many people do) and it only makes it 3hr before the transmissions start getting cranky on me. Even in my '09 race quad that has the transmission polished I can tell a difference. It sees pretty hard use though: big guy riding Pro-am level motocross. Amsoil makes it 5-6hr under the same conditions in the '09 and about 8hr in my '08 (different motor types). Took a couple hundred hours to wear out the transmission in my '08 that lived on Amsoil. Judging by what I could feel in the shift lever I don't think it would have made it as long with the Rotella. Just my experiences.
I agree with RacinStation that clean oil is important. My 3 KTMs don't like heavy oil to start when it's cold either. I'd definitely be looking at a 0-5W initial number if possible.
I agree with RacinStation that clean oil is important. My 3 KTMs don't like heavy oil to start when it's cold either. I'd definitely be looking at a 0-5W initial number if possible.
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K
kell8071
Well-known member
A couple things come to mind. Rotella T6 is not a "car" oil, it's a diesel specific formulation. Diesels don't use catalytic converters. It is jaso MA certified for wet clutches as far as I know.
Use whatever you want but a good low cost 5w-40 like that sounds like an awesome alternative to motorex or another expensive oil.
Use whatever you want but a good low cost 5w-40 like that sounds like an awesome alternative to motorex or another expensive oil.
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I've been running Amsoil in my KTM 530 EXC for 5000mi, and in my Husqvarna FE501 for 1400 and it has worked perfectly. Both motors are spotless inside, run perfect. I run Amsoil synthetics in everything I own with excellent results.
If it has a JASO spec that matches the oem spec you should be alright. If I'm remembering the JASO spec on the motorex is pretty relaxed so most JASO oils would surpass it. But check for yourself. There are a plethora of websites out there that can explain oil specs. Some have mentioned bobstheoilguy, he knows his oil.
Remember that your clutch needs friction modifiers in the oil if you have a combined sump. Guys with the split system can get away with a non JASO oil in the engine side but that doesn't make it a good call. Small engine oils and in particular dirt bike oils are expensive because of the additional modifiers not found in conventional passenger car oils and diesel oil.
As some have said oil is a controversial subject. Don't be lured by people telling you what they have run claiming that because they ran it its OK. Thats a fallacy. Oil specs are made to standards and those standards are there because every engine configuration has minimum demands.
With that said I personally would consider the Maxima line of oils if your looking for a more budget option.
Remember that your clutch needs friction modifiers in the oil if you have a combined sump. Guys with the split system can get away with a non JASO oil in the engine side but that doesn't make it a good call. Small engine oils and in particular dirt bike oils are expensive because of the additional modifiers not found in conventional passenger car oils and diesel oil.
As some have said oil is a controversial subject. Don't be lured by people telling you what they have run claiming that because they ran it its OK. Thats a fallacy. Oil specs are made to standards and those standards are there because every engine configuration has minimum demands.
With that said I personally would consider the Maxima line of oils if your looking for a more budget option.
I ran ams 0 40 in my husky 450 last year. Had a rekluse. 48 hrs no problems. I was amazed at how much better the bike worked with it. Seemed to start easier and shift much better.
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Can you give me recomendations, what oil will be better for snowbike:
MOTUL 300V 4T OFF ROAD 5W-40
or
Eni i-Ride moto2 5w-40
MOTUL 300V 4T OFF ROAD 5W-40
or
Eni i-Ride moto2 5w-40
Glad I found this thread I've been running rotella 5w40 and have really bad clutch slippage issues. So much so that I've gone through 3 clutches. I'm hoping it's just the oil that's my problem. Anyone else have this issue with rotella t6 5w40?
I ran it in 4 snowbikes for 2 winters with zero issues. (Over 30 oil changes)
2 2014 450 Yamahas, 2 2016 450 KTM’s
Did you run the 15w40 rotella or the 5w40? And apparently they changed their oil a couple years ago. Some guys on street bike forums are saying they are having slippage with the 5w40 rotella on their bikes. A track would mean even more slippage. I'm out of ideas for what's causing my slippage and clutch issues so this is my only idea now
Wish I could help you with your clutch issues. All I can say is I doubt it is the oil. Many of us have run Rotello for hundreds of hours and never replace the clutch. I do run at 7 to 10,000 feet though. 5w 40
Just to clarify this was in a 16 and a 17 YZ. I have since made the switch to the mobile one euro but not noticed any difference.I don’t abuse the clutch but I use it when I need it.
Quick read up on the standards that rotella meets you can see that it does not meet the JASO MA standard which is meant for one oil systems such as in motorcycles, that means it lacks needed additives to limit clutch fade/break, although many are using it without problems it does not mean that the oil is not your problem, maybe you are slipping your clutch more than others or your clutch simply needs the MA2 standard oils, I always look for the MA2 mark on oils I use for my bikes but that’s just my two cents [emoji6]?
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