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enclosed trailer tips

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That keeps the exhaust fumes outside, but that also means that the inside air is a closed system - there is no fresh air being introduced to the trailer.

Is anyone worried about C0 poisoning?

I am putting a co2 alarm in mine, I think that should take care of it. With the furnace that I'LL WIN mentioned you basically would be the same as an RV out on the road.
 
Like AkSledHed said, I keep a few vents open all the time. Works best if you have at least one down low and at least one on the roof to prevent condenasation by keeping air moving.
 
The 2 side vents i'm talking about are used mostly for when your cruising down the road, keeps the air inside fresh and the gas smell down. The roof vent is manually cranked open and stays open anytime the heater is being used. Now i'm not sure if the side vents stay open all the time or only when running down the highway. Maybe someone with these type vents can chime in.
 
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That keeps the exhaust fumes outside, but that also means that the inside air is a closed system - there is no fresh air being introduced to the trailer.

Is anyone worried about C0 poisoning?

I don't think that an enclosed trailer not of unusually tight construction would need an outside air with a vented system, as long as the heater is not unusually oversized. Example being 34,000 btu atwood in a four place probably being max. That being said a CO sensor should be installed if anyone is ever planning on sleeping in the trailer, or just for a piece of mind. Just my 2 cents!:beer;:beer;
 
The 2 side vents i'm talking about are used mostly for when your cruising down the road, keeps the air inside fresh and the gas smell down. The roof vent is manually cranked open and stays open anytime the heater is being used. Now i'm not sure if the side vents stay open all the time or only when running down the highway. Maybe someone with these type vents can chime in.


They are intended to pull out fumes whil driving but I keep at least one and the roof vent partially open all the time. I do it to keep air moving and condensation down more than for CO2.
 
The ones I'm talking about are the flow through vents that you can open or close to scoop in air or draw air out as you drive. they alos work to vent when stationary. If your not familiar with them I'll take a pic later and show you what I mean.
 
We've got a trailer coming that has them, hopefully they are the same as yours that open and close manually. Pics would be great, thanks.
 
Anyone ever buy one of those units off of ebay? Most of the dealers want around $800 or more for the same thing you see on ebay for around $500.

Looking for one, so if anyone has a good source with good pricing, share the love.......;)
 
If your talking about an rv type furnace, keep an eye on Craigslist, I see them almost weekly up here. Saw one today actually that was priced under $300.
 
We've got a trailer coming that has them, hopefully they are the same as yours that open and close manually. Pics would be great, thanks.


Here are some vent pics. Pics are of my front one up near the roof. The rear one is down near the floor. They will open either way so they can function to scoop air in or draw it out. I keep the front one open as a scoop and the rear open the other way to draw air out when travelling. If I'm towing in the rain or snow I close then though because the pull in snow or water. In summer I close them for camping to keep the skeeters out. You can open them just a little and not fully as pictured.

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Why does everyone mount there furnaces horizontal like that they will work sideways.Look in your installation manuals.
 
i for one, do not want my furnace sticking into areas that will limit my movement in the trailer, if it was hanging vertical it would be in the way, thats all..
 
Will I need to get a converter to run one of these RV Furnaces? I've got a generator but those heaters run on 12v, right? So I'll either need a high priced converter or a battery?
 
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