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economical performance for 600 rmk

R

rjkoll

Member
cheap performance for 600 rmk

Hey all...I have been reading the forums on the 600's and hearing what everyone has been recommending for performance upgrades on the 600's...My question is, for a limited budget, what would be the best bang for the buck (say around 500 bucks). I have read that 58-38-46 springs is a good clutch setup to run. would people recommend doing an slp pipe and silencer? I have been thinking about doing just a can for now to save some weight but is anyone noticing a bog/decrease in performance in using just a can? I am running the 144x2 track. I wish I could spend more money and really do it right but I just can't swing it right now so any recommendations as to upgrades that can get me some more grunt for not too much cost?... thanks in advance
 
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i would say that either a solid clutch kit or the slp exhaust set up would be your best bet. im not the one to ask about a clutch set up(im sure someone who does know something will chime in) but i can tell you that my buddy put the slp pipe and can on his 09 shift 136 600 along with the slp recommended clutch change which included mtx weights and spring changes....stock helix. and there was a noticable gain in performance. you could deff feel it when you hopped on the gas.

if you run just the can you will mostly lose weight and sound good doing it.i dont think that if ended up running just the can you would lose any power. SLP stuff is very well tuned and work hand-n-hand with polaris.

down the road if your pockets are deeper and you are looking for more punch when you squeeze the loud handle the carls cycle 660 and 685 get RAVE reviews

good luck!
 
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Hey all...I have been reading the forums on the 600's and hearing what everyone has been recommending for performance upgrades on the 600's...My question is, for a limited budget, what would be the best bang for the buck (say around 500 bucks). I have read that 58-38-46 springs is a good clutch setup to run. would people recommend doing an slp pipe and silencer? I have been thinking about doing just a can for now to save some weight but is anyone noticing a bog/decrease in performance in using just a can? I am running the 144x2 track. I wish I could spend more money and really do it right but I just can't swing it right now so any recommendations as to upgrades that can get me some more grunt for not too much cost?... thanks in advance

One thing for sure about the team twin track helix is that with 58-38-46 and the 58-40-46 you can go to the steeper angle when at lower elevation. this is by far the best helix to put in the stock 600 and it will also work very well with a pipe on it to. you will get allot more out of this little motor if replace the helix!!!! piped or not.
 
One thing for sure about the team twin track helix is that with 58-38-46 and the 58-40-46 you can go to the steeper angle when at lower elevation. this is by far the best helix to put in the stock 600 and it will also work very well with a pipe on it to. you will get allot more out of this little motor if replace the helix!!!! piped or not.

agree 100%

same with my 800. when i added the slp set up there was a big gain....but it really woke up when i played with the clutching/helix
 
okay thanks for the tips guys...does everyone else agree that the can alone will not rob power of any kind? I do not expect it to give me any gains but I definitely don't want to develop a bog or anything just for the sake of some good sound (even though i would really like to have it sound nice). I have noticed especially in the M series forums that a lot of people running cans are noticing poor performance/bogging due to the can. any input?
 
The clutching is key. I also was just wondering if it is EFI or Carb? if carbed, the polaris jet charts seem to be on the rich side. I had a 06 600 with SLP set up and at 8-10K feet they told I should be running 300 mains. It felt strogest with 270s and down to 260s in the spring. just thought i would throw that out there since jets are about $5 a pair.
 
One thing for sure about the team twin track helix is that with 58-38-46 and the 58-40-46 you can go to the steeper angle when at lower elevation. this is by far the best helix to put in the stock 600 and it will also work very well with a pipe on it to. you will get allot more out of this little motor if replace the helix!!!! piped or not.

What kind of performance increase could I expect with this helix? Currently I run the stock helix which is 56/42/36 on a 2010 600 CFI with a 144 track. I was pretty happy with the performance last spring when I got the sled. RPM seemed to be right on and backshift was good. I ride from 5 to 7000 feet. That is quite a difference from what you recommend. Are there changes to the primary required also? How about secondary spring change?
 
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mine is carburated so I will definitely look into the jetting issues. Thanks for pointing that out. any input on the can from anyone?
 
IMO a can is for wieght loss. Not going to gain much power from just the can. Maybe 1-2hp. As for the can-pipe combo your looking at 10. I could tell with my 600 when the pipe was put on. I would also recommend gutting the air box. Not only will breathe a little better but I did it mainly for putting the air box back in. There a really pain in the arss. You can then get your hand down insinde the box and help line in it up better with the carb boots.
 
What kind of performance increase could I expect with this helix? Currently I run the stock helix which is 56/42/36 on a 2010 600 CFI with a 144 track. I was pretty happy with the performance last spring when I got the sled. RPM seemed to be right on and backshift was good. I ride from 5 to 7000 feet. That is quite a difference from what you recommend. Are there changes to the primary required also? How about secondary spring change?

One thing for sure about the team twin track helix is that with 58-38-46 and the 58-40-46 you can go to the steeper angle when at lower elevation. this is by far the best helix to put in the stock 600 and it will also work very well with a pipe on it to. you will get allot more out of this little motor if replace the helix!!!! piped or not.

also wondering about what springs to run and is the 58-38-46/58-40-46 recomended upgrade for 0 to 1000 ft?
 
That is a popular helix i have used that in my 800s ,910 and now my 1200 tripple watercraft motor with full porting so the springs you use are going to make or break you.
 
I have a guy who just said he has a 58-42-46 that he could sell me. What does the middle number mean and would this helix work similarly to the ones listed above?
 
The higher the number the faster the clutches will upshift. This is a 3 angle helix with the first number being the first part of the helix used after engagement and the last being used somewhere closer to full shift of the clutches. Conversely the lower the number the quicker the helix will allow the clutches to backshift. The angle also has an effect on engine operating rpm. Basically the higher the angle the lower the rpm because the clutches put more of a load on the engine thereby reducing the rpm a little bit. There are other variables thrown in also such as clutch weights and springs.
 
okay, I am thinking that this helix will work then because the middle number (42) is a little steeper angle than was recommended to me, however I am in the upper peninsula of michigan so the lower elevation should be able to compensate for that slightly steeper angle... am I correct?
 
I might be wrong but it's not a 3 angle helix that last number is the length of one of the angles
 
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