If a guy drops the top gear from 20 to 19 will it raise or lower the rpm's at all?
Dropping a gear
- Thread starter Rudy198
- Start date
It'll change the "gear ratio", but it shouldn't change the RPM at all. I think the only thing that'll do that is changing the weights (and maybe the helix if you want to do that).
Rudy,
Think of the gear case as the rear end ratio of your truck. To go 60 mph with a tall rear end you can be in 3rd gear. If you have a shorter geared rear end you need to be in fourth or fifth for the same 60mph speed.
If you gear down-- for a given track speed you are in a taller "gear" in the clutches closer to 1:1 ratio and full shift out. Personally, I re gear my chaincases as low as possible, that way in the steep and deep I am shifted further out on the primary and the belt is less likely to slip in primary.
I have never noticed a need to go faster on the trail when I re gear my chaincase.
Think of the gear case as the rear end ratio of your truck. To go 60 mph with a tall rear end you can be in 3rd gear. If you have a shorter geared rear end you need to be in fourth or fifth for the same 60mph speed.
If you gear down-- for a given track speed you are in a taller "gear" in the clutches closer to 1:1 ratio and full shift out. Personally, I re gear my chaincases as low as possible, that way in the steep and deep I am shifted further out on the primary and the belt is less likely to slip in primary.
I have never noticed a need to go faster on the trail when I re gear my chaincase.
works awesome with no noticeable decline in trail top end speed. may even help.
X2 It did on my D8
murph
just my experience but you don't want it to low geared because you loose
track speed
for example i geared down to 19-42 and feel i lost something i will be testing and trying clutch changes but may go back to stock
this is on a pro 155
another example my buddy geared down his xp way down and that thing was a pyle after pulling his hair out for weeks he finally geared it back up and
boo ya new sled
now i know this is not apples to apples but i'm starting to think that we may just wanna pull as much gear as possible
anybody else chim in on this
just my experience but you don't want it to low geared because you loose
track speed
for example i geared down to 19-42 and feel i lost something i will be testing and trying clutch changes but may go back to stock
this is on a pro 155
another example my buddy geared down his xp way down and that thing was a pyle after pulling his hair out for weeks he finally geared it back up and
boo ya new sled
now i know this is not apples to apples but i'm starting to think that we may just wanna pull as much gear as possible
anybody else chim in on this
P
pura vida
Well-known member
as with everything there is a balancing point. to make gains on one side you loose it on the other. in general, you can drop your gearing and should have less belt slip and cooler temps but you loose track speed. gear up and you have faster track speed but shorter belt life. of course if you go too far either direction your results will fall off and you will end up with the worst of both. on my 11 i went from stock (20/42) to a lower ratio (19/43) and didn't notice much drop on the top end. then again, rarely am i ever running at my top speed. but it is hard for me to say how much less belt heat or longer life i noticed. in theory it should help but there are so many other factors that go into it from one day to the next it is extremely difficult to isolate one very specific change. you would have to go about it very scientifically. changing one item, i step at a time, the same day, on the same snow conditions. then do it again multiple other days on various snow conditions/temps/elevations etc. and who really wants to spend that much time wrenching on their damn sled rather than riding. honestly, i really don't think you will see much of a difference dropping on tooth over an entire riding season. but, i still did it last year...
pv
pv
I'm with Rudy on this one, take a sharpie and mark your clutch sheaves both of them from center to edge and take a rip up the steepest mountain you'll likely ever climb. Roll into the throttle slowly until you are on the steep so as to not wipe your marks on the flat. You want to get to a 1:1 ratio for effecentcy. If you don't gear down until you do.
When I was hill climbing my rule of thumb was to gear so I reached the maximum speed and a 1:1 ratio between the two furthestly spaced gates. With the new CFI engines clutching will now play a part in that equation too as if the engine isn't loaded enough in the midrange it will hit the det. If you gear down and make it to easy to accelerate you will need to add a few grams of weight to compensate. Hope that helps. If this is above your knowledge base either learn it or find a friend or shop that can help.
This is the way I have always geared my machines. Throw as much gearing at it as your motor will pull in a steep climb. I usually like to see the sharpie mark stay about 1" from the top of the primary. Improved belt life and better bottom end.
Probably the number one cause off mis reported "bog". In the Pro's.
And no, I don't drink Poo-laid.
