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drop and roll

Depends....

What clearance are you needing to achieve? Are you trying to fit a 2.5 or bigger paddle track? Are you just trying to get a flatter approach angle?
 
I have the vanamburg drop & roll in my 97 but un less you want to run a 2.5 lug i would not use this one it is a p.i.t.a. To get the foot pockets to clear the cluch and chain case
 
weigh the cost.

Will you gain enough to justify the time, materials, and frustrations to get this modification done?
 
My 2000 800 rmk has this mod. I'm going to do it to my 900/1140 this summer. It makes a big difference for climbing hills.
 
I am a believer...

I have done the last 3 of my sleds, I know it makes a difference, it is a lot of work to get done and not for everyone.
 
You cant beat a drop and roll performance wise in deeps snow. The sled I have now is the first one that I have had it on and it will be on every one there after. WELL worth the money.
 
After reading my post i just wanted to say i defently think u should do a drop and roll . just to use a less extreme move ment like the holtz or fast trax ones. cuz it sounds like i was aginst it lol.
 
different idea

I have this plan concocted in my head. I have an old Ultra chassis that has not been molested yet. I want to put a '98 RMK chaincase on it, but instead the usual drop n roll I want to modify the bulk head. My idea is to cut the area where the bulk head rolls down in front of the tunnel and re-weld it in a more forward position with a less steep angle so that I will gain clearance and the snow won't be jammed in that corner. Do you think that the structure will be compromised too much?
 
I have this plan concocted in my head. I have an old Ultra chassis that has not been molested yet. I want to put a '98 RMK chaincase on it, but instead the usual drop n roll I want to modify the bulk head. My idea is to cut the area where the bulk head rolls down in front of the tunnel and re-weld it in a more forward position with a less steep angle so that I will gain clearance and the snow won't be jammed in that corner. Do you think that the structure will be compromised too much?

It shouldnt be too bad. If you are worried about it you could always brace it with some thicker aluminum plates. That is a good idea though Id be curious to see how it would ride that way.
 
theory

I think it would keep the front end lighter feeling with more of the weight sitting on the track rather than the skis. Maybe next season I will have it together.
 
I ride a 2000 Rmk with a Tyson drop and roll chaincase 151 inch track. My buddy runs a 2001 Rmk with a 159 inch track and no drop and roll. Both sleds run very well and both have Polaris series 4 tracks.

We were riding on a hill that I couldn't top out on so I got on his sled thinking I would climb higher on his due to the longer track. Wrong I could never put his sled as high as mine even with it being geared slightly lower and a longer track. I believe this is due to the d&roll. Both sleds were pulling similar rpm's. I also like the extra ski pressure the d&roll gave my sled. Much better handling imho.

Good luck
 
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