Driven Clutch Set-Up Question

[cokingcat]

I had my sled parked with the break on. Some stranger lost control of his sled and hit mine (05 King Cat). He bent the stationary sleeve on the driven clutch. I replace both sleeves, used the same spring (and setting), helix, and washers (for the gap). Everything is stock on the clutch.

Now for some reason I have more low end power then before, but now and only when I am off the trail in the powered with full power the belt slips out at a really high rpm?

I am going to take it off again Friday night and check the following per the service manual-
I am going to make sure that the dots/mfg are lined up, I am not going to tighen the helix screws up until the end like it says, and be sure the key matchs to the drive cluch

What else can I check, do, change or test?

Any thoughts are welcome.

 

[Idcatman1]

There are five different holes that the spring can go in on the cover plate. Did you maybe put the tab on the spring in a different one when you put it all back together?

 

[cokingcat]

Thanks, but I used the same middle hole as before. Can you put the wrong end in on the plate of the spring? I haven't check to see if the length before the first bend is different yet?

I wish I knew what each change would do in performance when changing a driven clutch set up-

Ff I did move the spring to a whole to the right or left, what would that do?

What would happens if I increased the angle on the helix up or down in %

What would happen if I changed the spring to a stiffer one, what does that do?

If I add a shim or take one out what does that do?


Knowing some of this would help me trouble shoot quicker.

I am also going to look and see how loose my track is. I keep it loose but I wonder after the hit it's way loose now.

 

[ccpowder]

powered with full power the belt slips out at a really high rpm?

What exactly do you mean??

 

[cokingcat]

I am just curious what each configuration does on the driven clutch to the performace of the sled.

 

[Idcatman1]

Ff I did move the spring to a whole to the right or left, what would that do?
Tightening the spring gives more rpm, that is moving it 1 or 2 holes to the right.

What would happens if I increased the angle on the helix up or down in %
A lower number on the helix tightens the spring more as the clutch opens giving more rpm. Each 2 degrees or so makes about 200 rpm difference on the top end.

What would happen if I changed the spring to a stiffer one, what does that do?
A stiffer spring would also make the engine turn more rpm if nothing else changes.

If I add a shim or take one out what does that do?
I assume you mean the shims between the clutch halves, they adjust how tight the drive belt is. Too tight and the belt will squeal and the sled will try to creep at idle plus it will make the engine hard to start because you will be trying to move the whole sled with the starter rope. Too loose and it the clutches won't shift right.

Hope this helps, It is just a crash course. There are plenty of guys out there with more knowledge.

 

[cokingcat]

idcatman1, thanks. That's what I wanted to know. Now I just have to get it to start. For some reason it started and when I ent to pull it out, it died and never came back

Got fuel
Got air
Got maybe no spark at the plug (but the tac/spedo lights up)

 

[Idcatman1]

Tach and speedo get their power from different windings on the stator than the ignition does. Try unplugging the four prong plug that connects the engine to the chassis wiring harness. It has two yellow, one brown and one purple wire.
That will disconnect the key and kill switch. If it runs but dies when you plug it back in, then your problem is in the chassis wiring somewhere. Good luck.

 

[cokingcat]

I gave that a shot already and had no luck. I also tried diffrent spark plugs, plug wires, caps and ingintion coil and had no luck. Is there anything else worth trying before I say is the stator like:

Ignition Timing Sensor?

 

[Idcatman1]

I guess make sure everything else is plugged in correctly. The jolt you got when the guy hit your sled may have knocked something loose. I once had two wires switched on the three individual ones that come out of the stator next to the white plug. Took a long time to find out why it had no spark. I know that is probably not your trouble here since you likely haven't been into it. I have never had a stator go out except the ones that got pieces in them when the recoil came apart. Have had one CDI go out I think because the ground wire that goes back to the engine broke. Also had one timing sensor go bad. I have seen a couple coils and spark plug caps go out also. That has been the extent of the electrical problems I have seen that weren't self inflicted.