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You could have balanced all of them with the time it took you to type that I had the $30 balance job. Works great. Watched him do it, took a whole 5 minutes.
Just to add to the clutch balancing confusion.......do you balance the belt? Since the belt is rotating on approximatly 1/2 or less of the clutch sheave surface (all on one side of the clutch), how does this effect balancing when in operation? If you could throw a clutch with a belt on the balancer, what would you see???
Can someone please explain to me how solid pieces of aluminum and steel become "out of balance"? I can spin a round aluminum disk on my desk for the next fifty years and nothing is going to happen to it to make the metal flow to where it would be out of balance, correct? I understand if the weights wear into the spider that that would cut away aluminum, but other than that, balance your weights and rebuild your clutch as necessary.....If your spider is worn you really need a new clutch anyway as that is a stress scribe for fractures, and I don't think I want to risk my leg and berries over a clutch coming apart at 8000 rpm. Come on guys. I'm as much a stickler for clutch maintenance as anybody. But, please, explain to me how my sheaves, spider, and cover become "unbalanced" from normal use. FYI we just hung an old, shot, filthy primary on our bubble balancer in the shop and it came out perfect. For shlits and grins we changed one of the weights and hung it again with 2 grams more on one leg. Guess what? Perfect balance again. Threw some nuts and bolts on it...same thing...perfect. A clutch is not big enough in diameter for a bubble balancer made for a tire. A rotating tire balancer also is NOT accurate enough to read something this small in diameter correctly. For all you that still want this done....Send me your clutches, I'll drill a couple holes in them, you can come look at them hanging perfectly on my bubble balancer, and you can give me $20......And guys that are charging for this "service" in the real world, what kind of machine are you using?
The question seems to be...shops that charge our loyal snowest forum friends should not be afraid to tell us what machines they use to balance the clutches we send to them...I have PM'd and called some.
If an empty clutch is balanced on this when new, how does it change? Can a small speed shop afford the proper equipment to do this with more accuracy than the manufacturer?
If it is an out of balance problem from shimming, then it is the techs fault...ps why are you shimming for belt clearance?
Spider Indexing
NOTE: Spider indexing effects belt to sheave
clearance and clutch balance. Please read all
procedures before proceeding.
1. Remove and disassemble clutch
2. Add or remove spider washers as required to achieve
desired belt to sheave clearance. Make sure that the stepped
washer (A) is on the bottom of the spacer stack (B). For
example: If belt to sheave clearance is .020″ too large,
removing one .020″ shim will position the movable sheave
closer to the fixed sheave reducing belt to sheave clearance
by .020″.
3. Place the correct number of spacer washers (B) beneath the
spider. The following washers are available for fine tuning:
• 5210752 - .020″ (.51mm)
• 5242981 - .025″ (.63mm)
• 5210753 - .032″ (.81mm)
• 5210754 - .050″ (1.27mm)
• Clutch Spacer - .130″ (3.3mm)
4. Install spider washer(s) and spider aligning the “X” with the
moveable sheave’s “X”. Notice as the spider seat location
is changed, the sheave marks made before disassembly no
longer align (C). There are two ways to bring the sheave
marks into alignment.
Vary the amount and thickness of spacer washers (washer
thickness may vary slightly). Re-index marked spider leg to
another tower. This can be done because spider has little effect
on overall clutch balance.
Re-indexing the spider 1/3 turn clockwise, or 1 leg, will allow
the realignment of the moveable and stationary sheaves as
previously marked (D). For EXAMPLE: 0.020" or 0.032" (0.5
- 0.8mm) washer removed - re-index spider clockwise 1/3 turn.
NOTE: Alignment marks on the sheaves should be
with in 1" (25.4mm) after final assembly and
torquing
This can be done because spider has little effect on overall clutch balance.
there are better ways to set neuteral side clearance that don't reduce shift/side force
..when some one questions the norm with fact they will be bashed....even by the super moderator
If the clutch is out of balance from wear, the main core is probably junk anyway...ie sharp cuts from weights in the spider or grooved sheaves....
I'll throw in a dumb question.....since we don't operate without a belt, how does the belt affect this? I'm struggling to come up with a good analogy, but could it be compared to trying to balance your truck tire/wheel assembly with a tire that is constantly rotating and changing position on the wheel?? I'm all for a balanced clutch but we also have the primary spring resonating and the belt tugging and pulling and also becoming a MAJOR force in the rotating mass.....so it seems that no matter what it will never be perfectly balanced (or even close) when in operation.....except for those riding without a belt.
If it was possible to measure the "balance" while in operation on the sled, what would we see??
Or am I completely off my rocker....again