One more comment regarding the close tolerance bushing is that it works just fine with the stock clutch with a stock cover. If the stock clutch is balanced correctly the combination works great. So basically anyone can benefit. On a side note it is important to balance the clutch with a close tolerate bushing. If a clutch is balanced without it, then its subject to being correction drilled for what could no more than centerline correction.
Does anyone produce a tighter tolerance Clutch bolt bushing for the P85?
- Thread starter LoudHandle
- Start date
Hey guys, I talked with Dave this morning and he said we would consider making them from 7068 Aluminum if that's what we (the market) would prefer. Both of us agreed that Titanium didn't make as much sense in this application due to cost and machining time.
So if you'd prefer an Aluminum version shoot them an email letting them know: Email: sales@happyfacepp.com
If you were making an aluminum bushing for yourself... you will need an more durable washer than aluminum that also stays centered ... I really would not want steel (or TI) bolt on aluminum-washer.
For me... I would still prefer the SS bush AND washer as it will be more durable and the weight difference at 0.01-lbs (0.21-oz) wont make a diff to me with typical weight of my sled.
My vote would be to keep it the way it is currently.
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For me... I would still prefer the SS bush AND washer as it will be more durable and the weight difference at 0.01-lbs (0.21-oz) wont make a diff to me with typical weight of my sled.
My vote would be to keep it the way it is currently.
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LH...
Are you running the Lightweight crank in your sleds and lightening the flywheel? ... that is 2.5 - 3.0 lbs (1100+ grams) of weight you could cut... rotating mass at a fair distance from the centerline ... and they seem to have held up last year for those that were running it.
Are you running the Lightweight crank in your sleds and lightening the flywheel? ... that is 2.5 - 3.0 lbs (1100+ grams) of weight you could cut... rotating mass at a fair distance from the centerline ... and they seem to have held up last year for those that were running it.
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For those considering a Titanium Primary bolt
Alt's TI Primary Bolt it comes with a drilled TI Washer (TI clutch Bolt set comes with both the Primary and secondary bolt and drilled TI washers for both, for $98).
I can not speak to what PCC provides with their primary bolt for the extra $87 (listed price of $185).
And I will keep my SW protectionism and favoritism thoughts and comments to myself.
I have not had Indy Dan long rod one for me yet but that is the plan. Who is doing the Flywheel litening?
As I found out 4 1/2" hours ago I was downsized due to low oil prices; It may be a while before any of this come to fruition. : (
It will be a tightrope of issues about lightening things up on the engine rotating mass...all the theory in the world can go out the window when it comes to vibration, bearing life and pulse-damping effects (which can greatly alter clutch life and function). Trial and error, minimizing strange variables by blueprinting, is the only way to find out though. Just ask Dan what he thinks of a porkchop crank on ANY engine.
Any decent machine shop can lighten the flywheel... and then you need to get it balanced again. Balancing it anyway seems to make some sense.
PES makes the recoil basket bolts in Ti.
If you want to drop weight and grams are making difference... get rid of your grip heaters, headlights and related wiring... and unwind the stator lighting/heating/charging coils... then slice off the poles themselves.
You could also lighten up your sled by removing the oil pump... modding the cases for pre-mix to the bearings... remove the oil tank, lines and pump... build an injector carrier in front of the reeds and run pre-mix.... tune with a fuel controller.. then remove that with your numbers, and use a B-D0g flash to do that without the weight of a controller.... Happier reed life and sealing, and better overall lubrication for the engine.
Any decent machine shop can lighten the flywheel... and then you need to get it balanced again. Balancing it anyway seems to make some sense.
PES makes the recoil basket bolts in Ti.
If you want to drop weight and grams are making difference... get rid of your grip heaters, headlights and related wiring... and unwind the stator lighting/heating/charging coils... then slice off the poles themselves.
You could also lighten up your sled by removing the oil pump... modding the cases for pre-mix to the bearings... remove the oil tank, lines and pump... build an injector carrier in front of the reeds and run pre-mix.... tune with a fuel controller.. then remove that with your numbers, and use a B-D0g flash to do that without the weight of a controller.... Happier reed life and sealing, and better overall lubrication for the engine.
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Any info on this? I was just talking with LH earlier today wondering how much we can get away with on the flywheel
we posted at the same time... see answer above.
PES... I didn't know that you offered a Ti clutch bolt... cant find it on your website??
I didn't know that Dan had a Ti clutch bolt... the price is great in comparison... Does it use the stock bushing?
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I guess I was wondering if you had any pictures of ones that have been successfully lightened
I don't currently, but I am trying to work out a deal to sell Dan's on my site. I don't like to compete with anyone already offering a product especially if I can't significantly improve on it.
It is a way better deal and the washers are a work of art, excellent machining work. It uses the stock bushing.
Heck... the Flywheels are almost identical to those used on the massive crank'd, 80mm stroke, 900-RMK's...weighed the comparison of some 900 flywheels to the 2013 that I have here... within 15 grams of each other (the 800 cfi-2 was the one that was a "hair" heavier)
I can't believe that they need to be as heavy as they are on the 800-CFi-2's in the PRO-Ride and AXYS mtn sleds??
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I can't believe that they need to be as heavy as they are on the 800-CFi-2's in the PRO-Ride and AXYS mtn sleds??
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The PRO-RIDE 800 Mountain sleds ran the same flywheel as the 600 PRO-RIDE Mountain sleds (as do the 600/800 AXYS) ... ironic that they should be so "generic" even though they have much different rotating mass and much different stroke (62mm compared to 70mm)...
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This is exactly what I point to when people get worried about "changing the harmonics" of the engine with a lighter clutch cover, etc...
If it was that sensitive that flywheel wouldn't work on basically every Polaris motor for the 10+ years
But I do believe that it will be MORE sensitive on a crank that weighs 2.5 lbs less than previous models... Would a lightened flywheel make a difference on the 2.5-lb lighter AXYS crank... ????
Real world testing will only tell.
But...in the same vein of reasoning... the years-old "heavy" flywheel did not need to be changed on the light crank used in the AXYS 800's.
A light "porkchop" crank, to run smooth and have good bearing life... proper clutch operation... and lack of "numb feet/hands" .... will need the benefits of adequate flywheel weight.
Real world testing will only tell.
But...in the same vein of reasoning... the years-old "heavy" flywheel did not need to be changed on the light crank used in the AXYS 800's.
A light "porkchop" crank, to run smooth and have good bearing life... proper clutch operation... and lack of "numb feet/hands" .... will need the benefits of adequate flywheel weight.
The flywheel is installed close to the engine... the clutch... no so much... and that clutch moves and "bangs" like a slide-hammer.
Distance out from the mass-center, shaft sizes/taper...location of the mass etc etc will affect harmonics... it really is a crap shoot to see how it will turn out.
There is a point where making things lighter has too much of a cost that is not countered by a benefit.
Yes his kit uses the stock bushing with the drilled TI washer to replace the stock steel bolt and steel washer.
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