Do you need a special "Tool" to service The PRO exhaust valves?
- Thread starter Ken Climb
- Start date
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
? I took mine out 1st try with a pretty normal socket wrench and a couple different extensions. Unbolt the steering column bushing on the clutch side is a must (2 bolts). Gotta fiddle with the bars and the skis to get the post just out of the way enough but easy. Once they're out, there's really not much too them...sooo not sure what he would be talking about?
G
geo
Well-known member
You can get by without a tool if your very careful.
The locktight they use is VERY heat resistant. I got the nut off the first one but it took enough heat to get the bellows smoking. Then the stud (2 different size threads, that I couldn't match up with anything in my nut drawer, with a "hat" as they call it in between) needs to come out to remove the valve from the body.
I wrapped the "hat" with a hose clamp and applied mucho heat and finally got it free turning it with some channels lock pliers. I believe the tool clamps this "hat" in a vise and you turn the valve.
On the second one (and the reason I say you need to be very careful lol) I applied lots of heat and it still wouldn't loosen. So I got it to the point I thought the bellows were going to melt and gave it a bit more push and snap lol. Dang. I used the hose clamp method to get the rest of the stud out of the valve.
No one around here knew of the design so no parts around and ordered it but I didn't want to be out of a ride. So I chucked up the nut and drilled through the broken stud and easy-outed it with way too much heat for the bellows. Then chucked up the rest of the stud and trued the broken edge, drilled and tapped for 6mm and reinstalled with a short head allen screw of the proper length through the original nut.
Still there and just fine with the new part in the drawer for next time lol.
I don't know why Poo thought this needs to be so "secure". My old Doo's were just fine with a plastic nut. You need to take this nut off before you even need the special tool.
I posted my experience cause if it saves one person from this grief on a Fri. night it will have been worth it. If I had done it once before, I would suggest just decoke the valve carefully, wash it well in solvent then quickly in hot soapy water and blow dry without taking it apart.
The locktight they use is VERY heat resistant. I got the nut off the first one but it took enough heat to get the bellows smoking. Then the stud (2 different size threads, that I couldn't match up with anything in my nut drawer, with a "hat" as they call it in between) needs to come out to remove the valve from the body.
I wrapped the "hat" with a hose clamp and applied mucho heat and finally got it free turning it with some channels lock pliers. I believe the tool clamps this "hat" in a vise and you turn the valve.
On the second one (and the reason I say you need to be very careful lol) I applied lots of heat and it still wouldn't loosen. So I got it to the point I thought the bellows were going to melt and gave it a bit more push and snap lol. Dang. I used the hose clamp method to get the rest of the stud out of the valve.
No one around here knew of the design so no parts around and ordered it but I didn't want to be out of a ride. So I chucked up the nut and drilled through the broken stud and easy-outed it with way too much heat for the bellows. Then chucked up the rest of the stud and trued the broken edge, drilled and tapped for 6mm and reinstalled with a short head allen screw of the proper length through the original nut.
Still there and just fine with the new part in the drawer for next time lol.
I don't know why Poo thought this needs to be so "secure". My old Doo's were just fine with a plastic nut. You need to take this nut off before you even need the special tool.
I posted my experience cause if it saves one person from this grief on a Fri. night it will have been worth it. If I had done it once before, I would suggest just decoke the valve carefully, wash it well in solvent then quickly in hot soapy water and blow dry without taking it apart.
I just use brake clean and shop rags I never pull the hat off unless something is in need of repair. The hat and bellows moves enough to clean and I spray the blade with brake clean and take it to a wire wheel than spray every thing down than blow off with air. Spread some oil on the blade and back together with a new gasket. 1/4 drive 10mm socket with extension and a swivel .
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
Same here.
I find if you warm your engine up real good, by real good I mean hot.
Wear some leather gloves and it seems to make everything clean up and come apart easier. I didn't have to apply heat for the guillotine to come apart. Just wrapped a thick towel around it and stuck it in a bench vice.
I try not to use brake cleaner or any solvents on the bellows because it can prematurely damage the rubber.
I love these power valves on the pro over my old cat with those darned cables!
Good Luck!
Wear some leather gloves and it seems to make everything clean up and come apart easier. I didn't have to apply heat for the guillotine to come apart. Just wrapped a thick towel around it and stuck it in a bench vice.
I try not to use brake cleaner or any solvents on the bellows because it can prematurely damage the rubber.
I love these power valves on the pro over my old cat with those darned cables!
Good Luck!
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