DEEP DEEP snow track speed XP

[Original Tetonice]

No 2 motors are alike every motor has it's own sweet spot.....some run better at 8200, 8150, 8100, or 8000.

My bone stock XP ( except for the CRA clutch ) runs best at 8100 rpm

OT

 

[triple7]

I c. Just wondering if I am turning mine a bit tight. It seems to like 8350.

 

[Original Tetonice]

May be may be not what you read at the tach might be 200 rpm less at the motor depending on you gauge.

The 800R ( i assume thats your motor) peaks at 8200 rpm. Anything over 8200 and you lose track speed real fast

OT

 

[sledhead_24_7]

What do you mean about too much over shift with the CRA arms?

What I mean is too much over shift.
Rpm can drop from too much weight vs. altitude or the primary being shifted out to far and the arms are basically stuck in a higher sift pattern. then they wont shift back to a lower ratio. just like trying to drive your truck up a 10 -12 % grade in top gear, then wonder why you are having a hard time keeping rpm and mph. but if you down shift you get back rpm and some speed.

When climbing a hill or mountain what ever, the RPM's are taching just right 8200ish then about 3/4's the up the hill when the snow really starts to extra deep from the wind blowing over the top the r's just drop to 7500 or lower. not due to alititude.Get to the top open it back up rpm's just fine. go back to the bottom change clickers up a number or 2 and lose ground speed, belt heat goes up and no gain up the hill. But I would have less over shifting going on.

Now not every machine acts the same way with these CRA arms, which makes things more interesting. Out of the 6 in my group that have these arms mine was the worst on over shifting. most of the are having issues from day to day affecting clicker postiton.

then I put in the Russ Limpkie tra arms and solved my over shifting probelms and still kepp good track speeds. And throttle response

 

[winter brew]

What I mean is too much over shift.
Rpm can drop from too much weight vs. altitude or the primary being shifted out to far and the arms are basically stuck in a higher sift pattern. then they wont shift back to a lower ratio. just like trying to drive your truck up a 10 -12 % grade in top gear, then wonder why you are having a hard time keeping rpm and mph. but if you down shift you get back rpm and some speed.

When climbing a hill or mountain what ever, the RPM's are taching just right 8200ish then about 3/4's the up the hill when the snow really starts to extra deep from the wind blowing over the top the r's just drop to 7500 or lower. not due to alititude.Get to the top open it back up rpm's just fine. go back to the bottom change clickers up a number or 2 and lose ground speed, belt heat goes up and no gain up the hill. But I would have less over shifting going on.

Now not every machine acts the same way with these CRA arms, which makes things more interesting. Out of the 6 in my group that have these arms mine was the worst on over shifting. most of the are having issues from day to day affecting clicker postiton.

then I put in the Russ Limpkie tra arms and solved my over shifting probelms and still kepp good track speeds. And throttle response

I would place the job of maintaining RPM mostly on the secondary. Anytime you do something to the primary that upshifts faster, a change must be made to the secondary to counteract the primary....ie shallower helix.

 

[sledhead_24_7]

yea your right.
I was tired of changing springs and helixes and such. I would either lose track speed and ground speed or still have the over sifting going on. the problem is the CRA arms are just a little to sensitive on the up sift and not quit as good when stuck in a over shift situation. But they do respond to throttle inputs real well, like on and off the throttle.

 

[studboy]

I put the softer primary spring (blue/blue)in my 09 163 800, and a 43/47 helix, rode at 7000, 8000, ft and had to pull all the weight out of the primary to get it to hold revs. track speed was the same as two other stock xp's on same day. 40-45 mph depending on the hill.

 

[Original Tetonice]

What I mean is too much over shift.
Rpm can drop from too much weight vs. altitude or the primary being shifted out to far and the arms are basically stuck in a higher sift pattern. then they wont shift back to a lower ratio. just like trying to drive your truck up a 10 -12 % grade in top gear, then wonder why you are having a hard time keeping rpm and mph. but if you down shift you get back rpm and some speed.

When climbing a hill or mountain what ever, the RPM's are taching just right 8200ish then about 3/4's the up the hill when the snow really starts to extra deep from the wind blowing over the top the r's just drop to 7500 or lower. not due to alititude.Get to the top open it back up rpm's just fine. go back to the bottom change clickers up a number or 2 and lose ground speed, belt heat goes up and no gain up the hill. But I would have less over shifting going on.

Now not every machine acts the same way with these CRA arms, which makes things more interesting. Out of the 6 in my group that have these arms mine was the worst on over shifting. most of the are having issues from day to day affecting clicker postiton.

then I put in the Russ Limpkie tra arms and solved my over shifting probelms and still kepp good track speeds. And throttle response

How much weight are you running with the CRA arms ? It sounds to me that you have to much causing you issues. Also check all other parts that can also drag your rpm down

The beauty of the CRA's or similar arms is the speed of the upshift which results in fast track speed. When climbing a it's ALL ABOUT TRACK SPEED as well as the tuners ability to harness the weight in order to maintain proper rpm.

A simple formula to follow Maintain RPM = TrackSpeed.

Another simple formula to follow is not every motors peak rpm is the same. Knowing at whitch rpm (8200,8150,8100,8050,8000,7900) your motor runs best at is the key to improving clutch performance. You also mention the CRA being sensative which in my opinion is a good thing. I like to refer it as FLEXABLE and with flexability you get tunabilty....After all when you purchase the CRA's or ThunderShifters your buying a kit that gives you all the nuts & bolts needed for maximum flexable tuning.

And brew is also correct on the secondary, What helix are you running ? Also which CRA ramp are you running and at what altitude ?

OT

 

[Original Tetonice]

yea your right.
I was tired of changing springs and helixes and such. I would either lose track speed and ground speed or still have the over sifting going on. the problem is the CRA arms are just a little to sensitive on the up sift and not quit as good when stuck in a over shift situation. But they do respond to throttle inputs real well, like on and off the throttle.

You really need to focus on the direction in the CRA kit using any other spring is a NO NO. The baseline setup in the instruction are pretty close i suggest you follow them

Which spring came with your CRA kit ?

On your other post you state they don't respond real well ( drive truck up 10% to 12% grade ) and on this post you say they respond to throttle input real well....Explain what you mean.



OT

 

[jehay]

mine 85-90 miles oh i thought this was a yamaha post

 

[sledhead_24_7]

You really need to focus on the direction in the CRA kit using any other spring is a NO NO. The baseline setup in the instruction are pretty close i suggest you follow them

Which spring came with your CRA kit ?

On your other post you state they don't respond real well ( drive truck up 10% to 12% grade ) and on this post you say they respond to throttle input real well....Explain what you mean.



OT

if you don't let out of the throttle they don't like to back shift very well.
if you let out of the throttle then they seem to respond well.

as far as different CRA ramps I ran the first 3 versions from no weight to 4 grams. tried different locations etc. all had the same affect on my sled. others running the same set up in the primary and secondary were having different results, Just mine was the most drastic. not saying that the CRA's are junk just that my sled did not like them at all.

I ran the reverse angle 43/47 no likey, a straight 42, straight 44, and a 44/33 .
I am now running a 46/42 with the RLE arms and no problems, also ran the straight 44 like them both, might be putting the straight 44 back in.

Altitude rages from 7500 -10500 almost all up hill.

 

[SylvanLaker]

08 xp 154
19t top gear
130-320 primary spring
stock ramps (413) .9 gram weights
50lb stiffer secondary spring (hyperlight Yellow.)
377 belt

65km/hr is super deep snow. = 40mph

 

[Original Tetonice]

if you don't let out of the throttle they don't like to back shift very well.
if you let out of the throttle then they seem to respond well.

as far as different CRA ramps I ran the first 3 versions from no weight to 4 grams. tried different locations etc. all had the same affect on my sled. others running the same set up in the primary and secondary were having different results, Just mine was the most drastic. not saying that the CRA's are junk just that my sled did not like them at all.

I ran the reverse angle 43/47 no likey, a straight 42, straight 44, and a 44/33 .
I am now running a 46/42 with the RLE arms and no problems, also ran the straight 44 like them both, might be putting the straight 44 back in.

Altitude rages from 7500 -10500 almost all up hill.

From 8000' to 10,000' each barm should weigh between 51 grams and 53.5 grams. The weigh of the arm with zero weight is 48 grams.

OT