Cr500 tunnel cooler

[summitboy]

If your running two rads and no cooler you don't need a stat. It won't do anything. Your trail temps will rise most likely though. Bikes run fine at 90F.

Only reason to run a stat with a cooler is to try and get the temps up in the deep which isn't really necessary then LOL.

On the trail the temps get high and the stat won't do much because it will be full open. The cooler is what helps here.

 

[SEOINAGE]

If your running two rads and no cooler you don't need a stat. It won't do anything. Your trail temps will rise most likely though. Bikes run fine at 90F.

Only reason to run a stat with a cooler is to try and get the temps up in the deep which isn't really necessary then LOL.

On the trail the temps get high and the stat won't do much because it will be full open. The cooler is what helps here.

What is your opinion on running my left rad route through the carb then to the left rad? so it can warm the carb, yet still goes through the rad all the time. I thought I might need some valves and extra lines so I could turn off heat to the carb, but would it be a problem to always run it?

 

[egesledder]

I ran my carb heater all season last year, I didn't have any valves to turn it on or off. I never saw an issue and carb will never get THAT hot. Even with a good fit for the heater on the carb, you won't ever get it up to the same temp as the coolant just due to air/snow dust cooling. A warm carb is always better than a frozen carb.

 

[summitboy]

The way i ran my coolant to the flange was by tapping the rear of the cylinder. In the late model Crs there is a flat spot on the back of the cylinder. The old Crs used to plumb the coolant from water pump to the cylinder here. I drilled and tapped a 1/8NPT. Run a brass fitting to the flange and then back to my left rad bottom.

This year i may run my bypass line from tstat to flange and then back to right rad with a valve. Kill two birds with one stone etc. If the small bypass is too much then i will nix it and continue to use the rear of cyl to flange and then back to right rad.

My only concern is cooling up the trail however id like to see a super stable temp all around.

 

[needpowder]

OK. After today I'm changing my tune a little bit. Today was really deep,really light, and really cold. I could not hold temperatures at all. I dropped down to as low as 60° and had trouble getting back up above 80 or 90 in the deep snow. Not only that my bike ran like chit. The carb heater could not keep up. It just iced over and didn't stay warm enough. I had a wicked bog that would go away at the very top end but was there consistently when my temps were low and my carb was covered with snow and ice.
I have the neoprene carb Cover from avid. I'm gonna try it out this weekend when I can ride again. Though I don't see how I can possibly fit it over my carb--things are a bit tight in there! Hopefully I find a way. I'm also going to build some shrouds. Hopefully this helps.

 

[summitboy]

Hard to tell but where is your heat flange picking up its coolant from ?

 

[egesledder]

With engine covers, my kx seems to hold temps even on the deepest, handlebar deep days just fine. What's also nice is that it holds temps when you stop in the woods and help a buddy get unstuck. Otherwise, snow would just pack around the motor and cool it down while it sits there.

 

[ravenous]

Hey Needpower!
Do you have a bleedhole in your T-stat? If so it
needs to be sealed. I had to epoxy mine and it was a key to the systems success. Did you run your bypass from the stat directly to your carb heater? If so it should kill the carb ice,as long as your coolant is warm enough. 140deg should do it.
Think Moto GP when the two strokes ruled. The pinnacle of 2 cycle development. They ran much hotter than this and made twice the power per cc
than we ever will!

My old KX 500 runs in the 140 range in all conditions with no carb ice ever.
Thats good enough for me

 

[wwillf01]

OK. After today I'm changing my tune a little bit. Today was really deep,really light, and really cold. I could not hold temperatures at all. I dropped down to as low as 60° and had trouble getting back up above 80 or 90 in the deep snow. Not only that my bike ran like chit. The carb heater could not keep up. It just iced over and didn't stay warm enough. I had a wicked bog that would go away at the very top end but was there consistently when my temps were low and my carb was covered with snow and ice.

I have the neoprene carb Cover from avid. I'm gonna try it out this weekend when I can ride again. Though I don't see how I can possibly fit it over my carb--things are a bit tight in there! Hopefully I find a way. I'm also going to build some shrouds. Hopefully this helps.

Yes I would make sure the weep holes are sealed on the stat... The neoprene does not fit on mine.. But the heater keeps up ? It was deep yesterday !


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[wwillf01]

If your running two rads and no cooler you don't need a stat. It won't do anything. Your trail temps will rise most likely though. Bikes run fine at 90F.



Only reason to run a stat with a cooler is to try and get the temps up in the deep which isn't really necessary then LOL.



On the trail the temps get high and the stat won't do much because it will be full open. The cooler is what helps here.

I would say another reason to have a stat if you have a tunnel cooler is it takes forever to heat up because of all the additional coolant.... It really speeds up the process


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[needpowder]

Thanks for all the responses guys! Summit boy I'm running from the bypass straight into my carb heater. I did however have to plug one hole and use the one where coolant only runs halfway around it instead of three quarters. This could be part of my problem and I might need to re-tap if that's the case. I kind of forgot I did that. I figured at the time that it would be fine but maybe not.

Ravenous, I am running the avid thermostat. I think the bleed Hole came sealed but maybe I'm mistaken? Pretty sure though because I covered the bleed hole with my thumb and blew into it and didn't seem like any air went through. I bet my carb heater would be fine if I could run 140°. The problem is my temperatures drop down so much that the coolant running through the carb is much cooler than that.

Eggsledder, I am hoping some engine covers will keep my engine running hotter. That might solve my problem.

wwillf01, I remember you said you had to plug and re-tap your carb heater. Was this so you could get it to flow three quarters of the way around? Where is the Bleed hole exactly in the thermostat? I'm wondering if there's anyway I can check it without pulling the thing off and having to drain all my coolant.

Again, thanks for all your help fellas.

 

[M5-]

I ran shrouds for one day last year and halfway thru the day I ripped them off cause the bike was too hot in the deep. I have the exact same setup as SB because we did them together last season. With two rads I'm usually between 130 and 140 in the deep if I'm on the pipe. Our carb heaters are much more compact than the Avid version so they lose less heat to the collar itself and they also circulate heat 360 degrees around the carb throat. The smaller the better for the collar then all the heat goes into the carb not the flange. As I'm sure you know aluminum is a massive heat sink which is why they use it in the first place for cooling electronics and why it takes a fair amount of power to weld it.

M5

 

[needpowder]

Ya. I've been pretty jealous of those carb heaters ever since I saw them. You guys ought to make me one!

 

[SEOINAGE]

Ya. I've been pretty jealous of those carb heaters ever since I saw them. You guys ought to make me one!

Sign me up.

 

[ravenous]

Here is a drawing and a photo of the heater.
Now you need your favourite machinist to build
you one. I have made these for myself and
friends and they work perfect.

 

[summitboy]

Here is a couple pics of the Yeti cooler setup on my steel frame 500. I took the time to make things as simple as possible. I am going to change the bypass around a little. I will plug the bypass and run the carb heat from the back of the cylinder like i had it last year. M5 help me bend the rad support on the left side. Turned out nice. I will make a bag to fit it in the near future.

 

[ravenous]

It looks like a beautiful job!
What is the covering on the hoses?

 

[summitboy]

Its called Insultherm. Good for 1200F. Doesnt burn with a torch. Abrasion proof. Its expensive but i found out Mopac in Calgary rebrands it under the Performance World brand. I think normally its like 100-125 bucks for 25' of the 1". Mopac sells 6ft pieces. 1" was around 37 bucks. I got a couple different sizes etc. I just used some shrink wrap on the ends to finish it off. The hoses underneath are silicone heater hoses from HPS. Thats spendy stuff !

 

[mountainhorse]

Summitboy, In the other thread, you said the cooler was part of the Yeti kit, I could not find the Tunnel Cooler kit on the Yeti site... can you give a link for this?

Is this Yeti cooler an "owner installed" item, or is it installed at the Yeti factory?

Is your kit the first to get the Yeti tunnel cooler?

Great lead on the TechFlex-Insultherm... I need something like this for work projects... and it comes in colors, in the small sizes too.... lots of online dealers.
https://www.techflex.com/land_hitemp.asp

I've used www.wirecare.com for other stuff like connectors and Gates heat shrink hose clamps.





Thank you for taking time to post up the photos and descriptions.


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[needpowder]

Summitboy, that bike is looking awesome!!
I'm really happy with my cr500 TS LT. I might trade you though if your interested?

So, i just wanted to update on my situation. I wasn't holding temps at all in super deep blower snow and carb heater couldn't keep up. I managed to get the avid neoprene carb jacket installed and tried the next day. It was slightly better but 70 degree coolant just doesn't cut it. So...i built a full shroud. Enclosed as much as i could including the pipe and...bingo. 120 to 140 again and bike ran awesome!! Had a blast riding the best conditions i've ridden in years. I had to take a few days off because of stupid xmas. During the break the snow consolidated quite a bit and the wind blew a touch. Still good riding conditions but not epic. I thought maybe the bike would get hot but my tunnel cooler kept up great. I never even opened the valve to use my right radiater. 130 to 140. I think i can run these shrouds in any halfway decent conditions and be fine.