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Cr500 tunnel cooler

It is a much bigger load on the engine .... Mine has a good bit of engine work so that does not help with the heat either ... But I road with a stock one and he had similar issues... I would have thought the same but after a season it loves getting hot in the steep trees when your moving slow and the road when it is not dipping in the snow... I don't think there is often with wheels you are staying at 7 grand for minutes at a time


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I had a chance to visit Yeti today and they have a great cooler setup. The tunnel is all ready to accept their cooler for those who seek a factory type setup. I think it will be enough to nix the stock left hand rad.

I think the cooler is really the best way to do a 500. Stock stock the bike works very good in the deep snow. Thermostat is not needed as some believe. In the deep the bikes run at 85-120F depending on the carb setup. Some run hotter than others. On the trail its a different story. With a fully fuelled and loaded 500 you get up into that 210-240F temps. The bikes don't get enough speed and the cooling isn't quite there with the rads.

I personally would nix the left rad and run a cooler with a Thermobob 130F stat with bypass. When done right you will have a very stable 130F +/- 5F which would be ideal imo. If i could just have 90F all day long thats what i would do LOL. I just don't like the higher temps on the trail. I'm sure in the sand that is almost normal LOL !
 
When I ran the kx500 if you removed the front fender it eliminated the cooling issues. Just something you could try for free. It really blocks a lot of air flow
 
When I ran the kx500 if you removed the front fender it eliminated the cooling issues. Just something you could try for free. It really blocks a lot of air flow

Some of us are much slower, or live in warmer places, or something. I've gone from cold to >250f in less than 2 minutes with the radiators only.

Clearly radiators are working for some folks, but they won't cut it for everone.
 
Could you add a fan to the radiator and just turn on when needed? I suppose you would need a battery for your bike too. http://www.trailtech.net/electrical/digital-fankit/732-fna1
There are cheaper fans but this link is just an example.
Now that I think about it, maybe the fan would get iced up.
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I have one on my 300 and it works great.... For myself the cr500 is winter only so the tunnel cooler was an easier route to go because of getting a high powered stater is pricey.... If it was a year around ride I would invest more into it with a fan...


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Only way to run a fan on the mighty 500 is with a eline stator. Even then its a stretch. Plus they are 1000 dollars !
 
Thought i would show Yeti's offerings as far as a sweet cooler setup goes ! Totally integrated and compact ! Will sure make for a simple clean coolant line setup. Keep the weight down and the lines short ! Very nice setup !



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That Yeti cooler looks sweet! Seems kinda small but if it's in the right place it probably will work awesome. I just got one off an old arctic cat 580. It's about 8 inches wide by 20 inches long. I hope i can figure out a way to make it work on my 16 timbersled. Should get my kit in about a week i sounds like.

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I'm going to run a 04-07 doo cooler full length on a 15 kit. It's going to be excessive overkill for cooling but it fits perfect in the tunnel. No rads as I've seen dhdey's 500 run perfect temp wise last season with no rads and a burp bottle. After nuking a engine due to a unknown coolant leak I want to be able to monitor coolant level all the time .


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Had someone ask about some pictures of my routing set up so here goes.
It goes left hose out of head to t-stat. Out of t-stat (red hose) around the right side of bike to tunnel cooler
The return hose from cooler is visible in the bottom of the photo and goes into the bottom of the right radiater. Left rad is deleted this way and right rad is still the reservior.
Right hose out of head goes to top of right radiater like usual however i added a valve in there to close it off-- which is how i run most of the time. I have turned it on during hard pack trail sessions and it helps.
Also run avid carb heat with valve in it.
My setup is working great for me.

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Here's the picture of the valve out of the right hose out of the head going to the top of the right rad. It's kind of a scary valve I have to turn it in five or six times to get it to close but I don't use it very much and so it's not really an issue. It's also nice and out of my way right there yet I can still access it with my gloves on

image.jpg
 
I had a chance to visit Yeti today and they have a great cooler setup. The tunnel is all ready to accept their cooler for those who seek a factory type setup. I think it will be enough to nix the stock left hand rad.

I think the cooler is really the best way to do a 500. Stock stock the bike works very good in the deep snow. Thermostat is not needed as some believe. In the deep the bikes run at 85-120F depending on the carb setup. Some run hotter than others. On the trail its a different story. With a fully fuelled and loaded 500 you get up into that 210-240F temps. The bikes don't get enough speed and the cooling isn't quite there with the rads.

I personally would nix the left rad and run a cooler with a Thermobob 130F stat with bypass. When done right you will have a very stable 130F +/- 5F which would be ideal imo. If i could just have 90F all day long thats what i would do LOL. I just don't like the higher temps on the trail. I'm sure in the sand that is almost normal LOL !

K that is why I asked. I don't really want to run a 130f thermostat, when I am keeping my temps under that most of the time. not sure if I will go tunnel route yet, but need to figure out a new carb and carb heat still.

My bike runs just fine at 90 deg.
 
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