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Cr500 Thermostat Options?

Yes it's true,Chris. Sealing up the bleed hole in the stat made it harder to get rid of the air in the system.But I believe the consistency it gave me
was easily worth it.
 
Also ensure you have enough air. Last year i had a outerwear's cover i made for my airbox top. I then also had a plate deflector on the back side of my airbox (keep the TS from shooting snow all over the filter) with the bottom of the airbag cut out all the way around. I thought i had a jetting issue. After scratching my head i removed the deflector and exposed the entire filter and removed the outerware cover. The bike instantly ran perfect ever since. The Pulse requires a lot of air !
I think this is why I am running like crap, no changes other than went to the TSS intake pod, and it isn't giving me enough air. Haven't tested enough to prove it though.
 
My riding partner who also has a KX500 ran an intake similar to the Timbersled early last season. We found that it would accumulate too much snow around it in the deep and would choke the motor. My intake didn't seem to have that issue so we made another one. Its a longer intake that draws air from further back and higher up, out of the way of the massive amount of snow that gets packed in near the motor.

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My riding partner who also has a KX500 ran an intake similar to the Timbersled early last season. We found that it would accumulate too much snow around it in the deep and would choke the motor. My intake didn't seem to have that issue so we made another one. Its a longer intake that draws air from further back and higher up, out of the way of the massive amount of snow that gets packed in near the motor.

16044392329_5b7f8a556b_k.jpg


16204599956_491639501f_k.jpg

Interesting, didn't have any issues on the 500 with running extra rich, or seeming like it is cutting off flow?
 
Has anyone tried using the skidoo bypass thermostat that people were using on the pro rmk's? I think it's lower then 130 and cheaper if I remember correctly.
 
You mean, did I see those issues with this intake? Nope, its 2.5" intake tubing and tons of surface area for the intake screen. Flows a heck of a lot more than the stock air box, especially when running a stock foam filter.

If you think the Timbersled intake is causing running issues because it doesn't flow enough by itself, that's probably not what's going on. As long as it doesn't have a bunch of snow packed onto the pre-filter, it should flow plenty for the 500. If you're saying that it ran better without it, maybe its causing some sort of turbulence near the venturis or something.
 
You mean, did I see those issues with this intake? Nope, its 2.5" intake tubing and tons of surface area for the intake screen. Flows a heck of a lot more than the stock air box, especially when running a stock foam filter.

If you think the Timbersled intake is causing running issues because it doesn't flow enough by itself, that's probably not what's going on. As long as it doesn't have a bunch of snow packed onto the pre-filter, it should flow plenty for the 500. If you're saying that it ran better without it, maybe its causing some sort of turbulence near the venturis or something.

The only change made was the intake and it started running extremely rich. I'm going to do some testing tonight, pull the sock off. Maybe something else is going on, see if I can figure it out.

I was expecting more flow out of a prefilter set up too.. So it is odd to me.
 
The only change made was the intake and it started running extremely rich. I'm going to do some testing tonight, pull the sock off. Maybe something else is going on, see if I can figure it out.

I was expecting more flow out of a prefilter set up too.. So it is odd to me.


The other thing you can do is put a bigger predicted over the one it has... That way it wrinkles a bit and moves a little to shake the snow off... Or it can be removed and shook out and place back on... I found this avoids the ice buildup ...


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Thermostat

Just in the middle of my snow bike build of a Service Honda CR500AF. So I haven't had any time in the seat yet, but wanted to throw some ideas out here. If your stock cooling system works at the dunes in the heat of the summer, then if set up right, wouldn't it work in much cooler temps in the winter? The CR500 has two 15mm coolant lines right off the head. If you only opt for the one Thermostat bypass with a carb heater in coolant line 1 while leaving coolant line 2 open to the other radiator, most likely will never reach your coolant temp to open the T-stat, resulting in not reaching your desired 135F, and the carb heater not doing its job. And by manually valving the 2nd line, you cut the cooling capacity by half. Yes, I can see this upping your temps but as soon as you get back onto the trail or out of the powder your having to stop and open her up again.

So I will do this for a trial and error, because I have yet to read about someone with the same set up I plan to do. Not saying it will work, but to me it is sound.
Go the expensive route without having to add an extra cooler to see if I have any issues. If I don't have any issues hopefully it will help someone who might be on the fence of actually spending the money in fear that it is completely overboard.

Throw down for a Lectron high velocity Carb (no jetting issues), two Avid 135F T-stats (so that all coolant is metered between the two radiators),with carb heater, neoprene carb jacket(keep the heat in), TTO temp gauge, and an intake from Powersportstech that is large enough intake for the 500. I will also run a pipe guard. While running all stock cooling features for a CR500.
I will post as soon as I can actually get the bike out of the garage and into the powder. Open to any ideas anybody might have. BRAAAAAAP!
 
OK. After today I'm changing my tune a little bit. Today was really deep,really light, and really cold. I could not hold temperatures at all. I dropped down to as low as 60° and had trouble getting back up above 80 or 90 in the deep snow. Not only that my bike ran like chit. The carb heater could not keep up. It just iced over and didn't stay warm enough. I had a wicked bog that would go away at the very top end but was there consistently when my temps were low and my carb was covered with snow and ice.
I have the neoprene carb Cover from avid. I'm gonna try it out this weekend when I can ride again. Though I don't see how I can possibly fit it over my carb--things are a bit tight in there! Hopefully I find a way. I'm also going to build some shrouds. Hopefully this helps.

on deep powder days not a chance in hell i could keep my cr5 temps up without a thermostat. and i have lots of shrouding
 
on deep powder days not a chance in hell i could keep my cr5 temps up without a thermostat. and i have lots of shrouding

Sorry. Thought i mentioned it somewhere. I have the avid t-stat with the bypass going to my carb heater.
 
Thanks for the pictures they help a bunch, could you send a few pictures of where you ended up putting the t-stat and how you deleted the left radiator. Appreciate all your help, haven't been able to ride it much with overheating so bad. I'm running a 525 kit, porting and 40mm smart carb
 
Sorry. Thought i mentioned it somewhere. I have the avid t-stat with the bypass going to my carb heater.

thermostat stuck open? i just have an old ktm single in single out tstat from a 2stroke and in in deep cold fluff my temps never go below 120. back before i ran a stat my bike wouldnt run for **** when the temps dropped below 80
 
I actually deleted both radiators and I'm just running a cap assembly from some other arctic cat sled, I did a little write up here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391181

Here are a couple more pics that might help:

16012028328_54131f8cf8_k.jpg


Here's where my ktm thermostat is. I'm running the bypass straight to the carb heater and back into the return line from the tunnel cooler:

15579697443_179faa942f_k.jpg
 
The only change made was the intake and it started running extremely rich. I'm going to do some testing tonight, pull the sock off. Maybe something else is going on, see if I can figure it out.

I was expecting more flow out of a prefilter set up too.. So it is odd to me.


Pretty sure I figured it out. It seems like there is plenty of flow through the prefilter. I took the needle out to adjust jetting, the clip was smashed down to the bottom most position or further, not sure how it happened. But problem there solved.

But then I still ended up running a bit rich in the deep stuff. If I stopped and cleaned the snow away from the vent lines it started working well again for a brief time. Doubt I have any icing on the inside of the carb, but changing the routing of my vent tubes plus having them enclosed with a carb heater would likely solve the problem.

Also my jetting seemed all over the place, seemed awfully lean on the roads and had to turn in my air screw and move the clip on the needle. Still seems rich on main jet, probably drop it one more step.

Ideally I want a new carb, just not quite in the budget yet since I'm thinking airstryker with pulse induction plus a dual thermostat set up with avid.

I need to come up with a temporary/permanent solution for the vent tubes getting packed with snow though. And then if I keep having issues with this PJ carb jetting, replace it. Right now I think it is lean on roads because I come off the throttle and it goes ding ding ding ding, then drops back to normal idle.
 
One other thing to check is to make sure your gas cap vent is not jamming up and reducing the fuel ... On mine it jammed up and I could not even get fuel to the carb... I end up going to a no toil vented cap... I doubt that is what it is but worth noting


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Thanls for the info again! When you deleted the radiators did you do anything to Suport the front of the tank or just led the two front rank bolts only ?
 
So I put a rod across to support the plastic put see pick this works fine
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