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CR500 Budget build and all things Cr500

Should have looked last night, I'll see when I get home today. According the TS website it does say that stock is 13 16 - so I'm thinking that unless the guy I bought it from switched it, then it's a 16. And if it is, switching that to a 17 could potentially get it where it needs to be for sure as a 14 17 setup. Keeping fingers crossed here...
 
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one thing we noticed on my kx5 is that power drops off quickly as coolant temp goes up. i would imagine its the same for a CR. theres likely better cooling around the ex side of the cylinder than the kawi, but the iron vs nicasil sleeve probably makes that even.

I haven't noticed that as a problem on my CR500, temp doesn't seem to affect the power.


M5

FWIW I run 14 16 gearing on my bike with the LT kit. Chain fits perfect. I have a 17 gear if you need one.
 
I haven't noticed that as a problem on my CR500, temp doesn't seem to affect the power.


M5

FWIW I run 14 16 gearing on my bike with the LT kit. Chain fits perfect. I have a 17 gear if you need one.

If I get up in the 190's or above I lose power

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How often do you see 190? My thermostat should be fully open at 130, so I hope I'm not getting that hot any more.

I got rid of the thermostat now and added a switch.... so I will see the difference... I think they way I had to plumb the Stat it messed with the flow to much on my 500...Riding steep stuff... slow it stays warm..

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It's the 16T sprocket. So going 14 68/17 may work. I'll order the half-links since they're cheap, and if I don't use them I'll keep them for what they are - a repair kit.

Just ordered a 15t sprocket to try as well. One way or another I'm gonna get this thing in the snow soon I hope!
 
Sorry to post info about my KX500 in the CR thread!
But this applies.
I run 14-16-18-19 gearing on the KX.
(You could run this too, Summit Boy if that CR made a
little more torque! hehehe.):face-icon-small-win
But with my 2 1/2 inch track the chain deflection hit
the paddles. So I tried a D.O.C. chain tensioner.
Voila! No more clearance problem.
I have about 20hrs on the tensioner and so far so good.
Hope this is helpful.
Sorry for the jab, Chris.
 
Lol i know whos motor makes torque. I ran a half link before. I changed it out after a while. The best 1/2 link i found was Tsubaki. U have to use it with their chain. I think dealers US side get them from Parts Unlimited. I never broke one.

Not sure why u lose power at 190. Thats not that hot. Maybe its that port job LOL. Also the Pulse i run runs cooler than a stock machine as far as cyl temps go. That why u need a hotter plug with it.
 
How often do you see 190? My thermostat should be fully open at 130, so I hope I'm not getting that hot any more.

I got rid of the thermostat now and added a switch.... so I will see the difference... I think they way I had to plumb the Stat it messed with the flow to much on my 500...Riding steep stuff... slow it stays warm..


I don't know my ktm 300 looses power once you start climbing above 190 compared to 130... I think it is pretty normal.. heat= hp loss... the difference with the ktm is the fan kicks on at 190 ..

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Now I'm really torn. Have my bike apart, cylinder ready to be bored. Found forks with triples that will fit with a bearing kit, and I'm getting pressure to do a full on AF conversion with a rolling chassis. Really tempting could have a sweet dirt bike in the summer as well, and could sell my 450, rather than keep one snow bike and one dirt bike. dunno what to do. Haven't found a rolling chassis yet.
 
OK here's my take on it. For a snow bike and dunes bike, change out the forks and ride the steely. For an all out monster dirt bike that you are honestly going to ride on a daily basis do a conversion, BUT, I personally would use a KTM cro mo frame over an alu Honda frame as it's an easier conversion and it'll damp the vibes better as well. The alu frames don't actually save much weight they just give you modern geometry. JMO and I've been wrong before, come to think of it, many times, LOL.

M5
 
I do a bit of desert riding, and hill climbing. ridge riding technical stuff. I mean how far off is the geometry on the older 500s? I would think forks alone would be a huge deal over my conventional forks, dunno if I could get the rear suspension sufficient to ride it hard and fast, the sag was adjusted so the spring was all the way at the top, sat so low, wouldn't want to put money into a stiffer spring. but I temporarily moved the sag position till I get it back together and adjust it again.

You are probably right about a KTM conversion, but tougher to get a hold of. I picked up this bike 4 years ago or so with the intention of doing a conversion, but never had the chance to put effort into it, but realized it was a perfect use of it for a snow bike even without that extra work.

I'll keep looking at rolling chassis, haven't found anything yet, but after working on it a bit more forks just seem so easy. I could also pick up a roller in the future, I could possibly snag a 85 motor and rebuild it, its just sitting, and do that conversion, but then run out of garage space.
I basically bought my wife two four wheelers and a 50 for the family and she still wants a couch...
I like your build though, and would be perfectly happy with it that way for the snow, just want an SX kit, and a tunnel cooler. I'm probably going without lights and grip warmers for a while, add on for later. Did you install heavier clutch springs? this bike has a device on it that supposedly makes the clutch pull easier, it is pretty easy, but that was another thing I was considering, I think that the clutch has been replaced in the past.
 
Now I'm really torn. Have my bike apart, cylinder ready to be bored. Found forks with triples that will fit with a bearing kit, and I'm getting pressure to do a full on AF conversion with a rolling chassis. Really tempting could have a sweet dirt bike in the summer as well, and could sell my 450, rather than keep one snow bike and one dirt bike. dunno what to do. Haven't found a rolling chassis yet.

I should be able to let you know next weekend should be riding my steelie with an lt along with an af with a sx...I should see the difference ....

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From what I can tell It doesn't look like the aluminum frame conversion is any tougher to build than a steely. Aluminum is as easy to weld than chromoly. And the aluminum frames are a dime a dozen. Please keep us updated on how your steely does against the A/F. I'd think the A/F would be more agile. But I may be mistaken.
I'm still tossed up if I should use my crf frame or or my 500 frame!
 
I should be able to let you know next weekend should be riding my steelie with an lt along with an af with a sx...I should see the difference ....

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Well one will be LT one SX, I think that would be the most siginificant factor, although I am curious about the vibrations on the aluminum frame.
 
I haven't noticed that as a problem on my CR500, temp doesn't seem to affect the power.


M5

i didnt think so either but i happen to have a buddy w a dyno. first run on cold cases is always the best on any 2 stroke. usualy a couple better. but the kx seems to drop off lots more. bet its the same with the CR

all i'm saying is its food for thought. a big dollar engine job could get you less to the sprocket than just running at the proper temp, which i think is about 90F.

i see lots of you fellas are ditching t-stats. i knew you'd all smarten up. haha!

Maybe i should sell a T-stat delete for $300 on here and get guys to buy them??
 
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