Coupled non-coupled limiter strap quandary

[mikesnick]

Can anyone explain how/why TS has moved on from the adjustments of the coupled skid and limiter strap and the benefits these design features provided for various riding conditions? I have had my kits setup so I could make these adjustment during the day without tools.

I have a fair understanding of these adjustments but what has TS done to replace them. I have run the TSS and played with it but I don't see it as replacing coupling.

I need someone with a higher pay grade than me to explain it.

 

[teal_210]

I don't know why they've been removed. However I am considering adding a limiter strap to my ARO for deep snow days.
The ability to couple the skid was nice on the hero snow days when you want to go straight up the steep stuff.

 

[eric82930]

This question keeps me up many nights pondering the depths of the perfect setup.

My best answer is there is no perfect setup for all conditions and I can attain the best setup for each condition by adjusting spring preload, fork height and strut rod so my opinion is the limiter and couplers really aren't necessary.

FWIW I have the old TS with the h beam rear arm and the couplers always made it handle like crap. I always prefer to just add rear spring for deep pow days and soften it for hard snow and more of a bike feel.

The camso and MTX esentially only have one central spring on the skid so they need coupling and limiting to achieve the same tuning results.

 

[mikesnick]

Thanks for the input. As you mentioned there is no perfect setup plus snow and terrain constantly change during the course of the day.

Once you set the forks and a rigid strut your committed for the day. That is one reason I liked my no tools set for limiter strap and coupling.
As you mentioned adjusting the shock springs is part of the equation.

The newer kits work pretty good. I don't have a handle on how they were able to replace the coupling and strap flexibility. Is it a full replacement or just a reasonable middle of the road best for most conditions solution?

It is kind of like once you do your fork springs and use the strut rod to get the track angle set all you have left that you can adjust on the fly is adjustiong the springs.

I have used a TSS and a RRS and have mixed feeling regarding the results.

I like to get a really good ride on those nasty trails going in then be able to adjust for off road deep powder or hard snow spring riding.

There may not be an answer or it may be too complicated to address here but just looking for experienced input.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Thanks for the input. As you mentioned there is no perfect setup plus snow and terrain constantly change during the course of the day.

Once you set the forks and a rigid strut your committed for the day. That is one reason I liked my no tools set for limiter strap and coupling.
As you mentioned adjusting the shock springs is part of the equation.

The newer kits work pretty good. I don't have a handle on how they were able to replace the coupling and strap flexibility. Is it a full replacement or just a reasonable middle of the road best for most conditions solution?

It is kind of like once you do your fork springs and use the strut rod to get the track angle set all you have left that you can adjust on the fly is adjustiong the springs.

I have used a TSS and a RRS and have mixed feeling regarding the results.

I like to get a really good ride on those nasty trails going in then be able to adjust for off road deep powder or hard snow spring riding.

There may not be an answer or it may be too complicated to address here but just looking for experienced input.

The aro skid reacts very much like the pro rmk skid.
Rear spring preload affects weight transfer a lot with small adjustments. Lighter is less ski pressure and more transfer.

Front spring affects trail ride and anti bottoming(stiffer) vs float in powder (softer) similarly. Spring adjustments will greatly change the characteristics.

Don’t be afraid to put a 1/4 turn on either end if you desire different handling or floatation.
It may seem “too simple “ to say “just adjust it” but the holz/ poo geometry really works.

(No tools needed)

(No limiting devices really required for stock power) iE couplers or limiter straps.

Obviously big power would need coupling..........