C3 setup comes with a 195 stat. Not enough time on them to give good review, but they are much warmer than electric. Not too hot. I didn't notice a difference when stat opened. Center of bars warm on c3. Right side a bit warmer than left. Coolant goes to right side first and exits from left. Fwiw.
Coolant Heated handlebars
- Thread starter Sheetmetalfab
- Start date
C3 setup comes with a 195 stat. Not enough time on them to give good review, but they are much warmer than electric. Not too hot. I didn't notice a difference when stat opened. Center of bars warm on c3. Right side a bit warmer than left. Coolant goes to right side first and exits from left. Fwiw.
I made my own coolant heated bars last year using info from the forum, Thanks to all who posted. I love them and I have found 2 unexpected benefits, the first is I can always tell if my rads are iced up because the bars are too hot to hold and second is that I never have to worry about the throttle freezing because its always toasty warm. As someone else mentioned, best snowbike mod ever!!!
Generally, if you see a bit of thread just under the hex of the fitting when tight, this indicates the NPT = tapered thread, which gets tighter when screwed in more. The other style is a straight thread often used with a sealing ring. Then there's the other British tapered thread = so may cooks in the kitchen back then. All are virtually interchangeable in a pinch but not always ideally so. I've often run a known tap size, a little deeper, through the existing thread to be sure of a good thread engagement.
https://www.ralstoninst.com/news/story/the-difference-between-npt-bspp-and-bspt-seals
oh that feeling
thanks for all the posts that showed me the way to make my hands warm. Good posts about added benefits, another benefit I realize is how much heat it puts back into your body riding all day. Been out on some flat light colder snowy days, stopped to nip my Powerade and eat some cheese and cooled right off and man does it feel good to get back on the bike and turn up the bar heat.
I run big Giant Loop handguards, so with the heat I can wear light winter mx gloves and the back of my hands rarely get wet. If I lay my googles on top of my throttle/brake even when snowing my googles will dry out in a 10 minute stop.
thanks for all the posts that showed me the way to make my hands warm. Good posts about added benefits, another benefit I realize is how much heat it puts back into your body riding all day. Been out on some flat light colder snowy days, stopped to nip my Powerade and eat some cheese and cooled right off and man does it feel good to get back on the bike and turn up the bar heat.
I run big Giant Loop handguards, so with the heat I can wear light winter mx gloves and the back of my hands rarely get wet. If I lay my googles on top of my throttle/brake even when snowing my googles will dry out in a 10 minute stop.
Just an FYI. NPT threads are 27 pitch and BSP are 28. Guys jam them in there and interchange them but they aren't the same. Once you screw a 28 into a 27 there's no going back. Bigger chance for leaks. They are 2 different specs.
M5
M5
The tee is a 1/8th NPT 3 x female tee with a short 1/8th NPT nipple for the Thermo bob side. The bypass is a 1/8th NPT to 3/8 barb and the bars are fed with a 1/8th NPT to 1/4" barb. As for the valves I have a valve on both my bar inlet and outlet as well as one on my 3/8th bypass so that way I can control everything. As for the ball valves they are just 1/4 in valves my buddy picked them up
M5
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0443044
I have a ball valve on my feed to my bars and one on the bypass. Not required on the return from the bars. With these two valves you can have 100% bypass, 100% to bars, or a blend as required.
I have a ball valve on my feed to my bars and one on the bypass. Not required on the return from the bars. With these two valves you can have 100% bypass, 100% to bars, or a blend as required.
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Grainger used to have a mini ball valve with both male and female 1/8NPT listed as:
BRASS MINI BALL VALVE FNPTXMNPT 1/8
but it's seems like it's discontinued now. You should be able to get a 1/8NPT valve like it from Fastenal or others. It will be less bulky than the 1/4NPT size.
BRASS MINI BALL VALVE FNPTXMNPT 1/8
but it's seems like it's discontinued now. You should be able to get a 1/8NPT valve like it from Fastenal or others. It will be less bulky than the 1/4NPT size.
The reason I added a valve on the return is in the event of ripping off a line on a tree or something going wrong with the bars I can just isolate the bars and keep riding without the heat. That's all, you don't need the return valve for heat control. I've had branches get into places I never thought possible.
M5
Maybe this is the one?
Also.is the bypass fitting on the Thermobob 1/4npt or 1/8npt?
EDIT: 1/4NPT, comes with 1/4barb, i needed a 1/2 barb...
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Air Bubbles?
Where has everyone put their return for their custom coolant heated bars?
I have a thermobob t-stat using a tee off the bypass line as input to the bars, then return from the bars goes to the return line from the right rad where it tees into the return from the left rad then into the water pump...
I have clear lines and I can see a good amount of bubbles even after I've done my best to bleed the system. And I'm now realizing it's because the return line goes straight back into the water pump bringing the air bubbles from the bars with it.
I know this isn't a serious issue and they'll work their way out over time, but wanted to see where everyone else plumbed in their return.
EDIT: took some creative bleeding but I was able to get rid of 90% of my bubbles by bleeding off the bar-end.
Some pics:
Where has everyone put their return for their custom coolant heated bars?
I have a thermobob t-stat using a tee off the bypass line as input to the bars, then return from the bars goes to the return line from the right rad where it tees into the return from the left rad then into the water pump...
I have clear lines and I can see a good amount of bubbles even after I've done my best to bleed the system. And I'm now realizing it's because the return line goes straight back into the water pump bringing the air bubbles from the bars with it.
I know this isn't a serious issue and they'll work their way out over time, but wanted to see where everyone else plumbed in their return.
EDIT: took some creative bleeding but I was able to get rid of 90% of my bubbles by bleeding off the bar-end.
Some pics:
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