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COOL NEW TOOL!!

In another thread they said you drill a hole in the fiberglass rod to weaken it, before using the tool. In the lower photo it looks like the drill guide in the upper round rod of the tool? Just a guess on my part.
 
It would no doubt work well. You would be best to drill the rod though first. We have discussed this in detail. I am not ready to be the gunei pig to try it yet though.

Here is my fear. you drill the rod and break it and it leaves a sharp edge on the rod and the rod wears throught the rubber. I guess the same worry I have for the track ski doo is selling as well.

Anyone know what the dia of the rod is?
 
crazy talk PJ...thats like saying high rise seats are going to be out and low seats will be popular.

:face-icon-small-con

Seats?? I only use mine to eat a sammich.


LOL, I just saw the same comment on BCR 20 seconds ago. Lets attack bar risers now. And maybe a Lefty throttle or something.
 
Ya really give it that long?

That's about as long as the ported tracks craze lasted before reverting back. I think the theory is there but the science isn't.

As far as DYI flex-edge I have serious doubts. The flex edge track is designed that way. With the tool you really are breaking your solid track that wasn't designed to flex. I see a whole lot of guys replacing $800 tracks.
 
That's about as long as the ported tracks craze lasted before reverting back. I think the theory is there but the science isn't.

As far as DYI flex-edge I have serious doubts. The flex edge track is designed that way. With the tool you really are breaking your solid track that wasn't designed to flex. I see a whole lot of guys replacing $800 tracks.

What does FIBERGLASS do when it breaks? Well the fibers and glass turn to dust, there for it actually will act as a lubricant and not allow any stands(if there are) that are pressent to puncture. look at what graphite does.

Jared
Between the Lines Designs
 
What does FIBERGLASS do when it breaks? Well the fibers and glass turn to dust, there for it actually will act as a lubricant and not allow any stands

well tell that to all the splinters that i have to pull out of my hands with pliers moving tubs and shower stalls with no gloves..

if it turned into a lubricant i would be wacking off more at work instead of being in pain...
 
What does FIBERGLASS do when it breaks? Well the fibers and glass turn to dust, there for it actually will act as a lubricant and not allow any stands(if there are) that are pressent to puncture. look at what graphite does.

Jared
Between the Lines Designs

You are wrong. Go break a fiberglass trail marker or fence rod and see what happens. It splinters. The force required to turn fiberglass into dust is much greater than a hand tool can apply.

M8 is correct.

DO NOT GET ME WRONG. I am not trying to bag on your product. I wish you the best. I just don't trust it yet and until I see proof on the snow and real world testing I am not willing to possibly destroy a $900 track
 
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What does FIBERGLASS do when it breaks? Well the fibers and glass turn to dust, there for it actually will act as a lubricant and not allow any stands(if there are) that are pressent to puncture. look at what graphite does.

Jared
Between the Lines Designs

I am extremely interested. I will give er a try. I want to hear more about the process.
 
So I was talking to a friend about this last night. He made the comment that alot of guys are talking about how easy it is to pull the new flex edge over on the XM sitting on a hard surface. So to replicate what that may feel like on any other sled that does not have the flex edge would be to cut a 11 inch wide 3/4" thick plywood and place it under your sled and this should give you a feel of what it is like on a hard surface had your sled have the flex edge. I have yet to do it but I beleive it would pull up much easier. In true pow pow powder you probally won't feel a bit of difference but I imagine anything else that even is slightly setup will show great results. In great powder pulling it over in never a issue.
 
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Just thinking out loud here: you can therefore achieve the same results by trimming a shallow tapered wedge off the tips of the outside paddles from zero at the clips to 3/4" +- at the edge and not have any track integrity issues. Seems like a better alternative to me. I think the thicker shorter paddle at the edge would cut into and grab better in the hard packed snow when you really need it to and be less likely to wash out like a flexible full paddle would likely do. In theory you really shouldn't lose any traction in loose snow and on hard pack riding flat you really shouldn't need the full 15-16 inches touching.
 
Just thinking out loud here: you can therefore achieve the same results by trimming a shallow tapered wedge off the tips of the outside paddles from zero at the clips to 3/4" +- at the edge and not have any track integrity issues. Seems like a better alternative to me. I think the thicker shorter paddle at the edge would cut into and grab better in the hard packed snow when you really need it to and be less likely to wash out like a flexible full paddle would likely do. In theory you really shouldn't lose any traction in loose snow and on hard pack riding flat you really shouldn't need the full 15-16 inches touching.

Somewhat true if On literally concrete. But likely the paddle is always going to cut into the snow. So that throws that idea out, Good idea though. I had to think of a reason why it wouldn't work. Otherwise I would assume they would have gone that route.
 
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