Coasting

[Kestrel2126]

So my new Pro has over 150 miles on it, and my biggest complaint is the way it coasts. In other words, if I let off the throttle completely, it almost feels like the brake is slightly engaged. I understand that there is going to be a bit of rolling resistance, but I haven't had a sled act like this before. I tightened the track to spec after I got it loosened up during break in, and am wondering if that is maybe a bit too tight. I also thought that maybe I had a brake pad dragging, but I see no evidence of that. Is anyone else noticing this issue? It is really not cool when jumping. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[AndrettiDog]

Others have mentioned issues with the brake not releasing. I have 240 miles and have not see this issue yet. Lightly apply pressure on the break while moving slowly to make sure it is wearing evenly.

otherwise, don't let off of the throttle!

 

[ndC7M8]

even with my sled on the lift it seems like the brake is dragging a little on it. secondary doesnt spin very easily by hand.....we will see

 

[Kestrel2126]

I think I'm going to check my caliper/pads again, and if they are not causing the issue, I'll open up the chaincase and see if there is a problem there.

 

[mountainhorse]

Kestrel... lift the rear off the ground in your shop... compare the resisance with the brake caliper in and the brake caliper out of the sled (easy to pull)

Then check for driveline drag in the case etc..

On the 155's... I believe that the factory prescribed tension method could use some refinement compared to the kicked up rails of the 2011 163" or the previous years methods... some of that could be related .

I hope to have an thread on this in the next couple of days after getting some more insight on the topic.

 

[Old Scud-doo]

Not sure if what I've experienced is what you speak of or not. I've noticed that if you are cruising down the trail or open area and lightly let off the throttle is feels like you have applied the brake and the motor makes a sound like it is applying a jake brake. That's about as good as I can explain it. Add a little throttle and as long as the motor is pulling and not coasting, everything is fine.

Anybody else notice this? Not saying there's a problem, it's just weird.

 

[goforbroke]

I noticed my clutch stays engaged, and I never really "coast'. kinda like the atv with engine braking. Only 75 miles on mine. Where did all that soft snow from thanksgiving weekend go?

 

[Kestrel2126]

Not sure if what I've experienced is what you speak of or not. I've noticed that if you are cruising down the trail or open area and lightly let off the throttle is feels like you have applied the brake and the motor makes a sound like it is applying a jake brake. That's about as good as I can explain it. Add a little throttle and as long as the motor is pulling and not coasting, everything is fine.

Anybody else notice this? Not saying there's a problem, it's just weird.

Lol, new from Polaris, the jake brake option!
I'm gonna see if I can find an airhorn to go with!

Seriously though, that does seem similar to my issue

 

[Daggerboat]

This de-celleration is from the style of secondary clutch. I prefer the old button clutches.

 

[polaris dude]

well, at least going down rather large hills this might be useful

 

[dub]

I have a huge brake dragging problem that won't go away, I have taken the entire assy apart added new brake fluid and the whole works. Still drags bad!!

Dealer has a call in to Polaris to see if they heard of anything... Don't want to run it down to them for fear that they will never see it, it doesn't happen until it gets very hot.

 

[RACER212]

there is a issue with the pads draggin it always makes noise weather your on the brake or not i ran about a mile and coasted to a stop and touched the brake rotor and if was pretty warm i am going to try putting springs to space the pads out to see if that helps

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I have a huge brake dragging problem that won't go away, I have taken the entire assy apart added new brake fluid and the whole works. Still drags bad!!

Dealer has a call in to Polaris to see if they heard of anything... Don't want to run it down to them for fear that they will never see it, it doesn't happen until it gets very hot.

Dub, check the lever on the mastercylinder..if it keeps the piston from coming completely out to the snapring..it will drag the brakes when it gets hot....I have seen this many times when people replace a mastercylinder on their car/truck and the rod from the booster holds the piston off the snapring...you need just a slight amount of freeplay on the lever before it engages the piston...

 

[Murph]

This may or may not help your situation. Easy to test.

My parking brake took way too much effort to engage. My solution was to dremel out some material where the lever engages the brake master cylinder piston.

Not only does it allow you to engage the parking brake easier, it gives you some much needed free play.

With the rear of the sled elevated, spin the track and engage the brake to heat up the pads, caliper, and disk. Shut off the sled and spin the track by hand. Then pull the snap ring that holds the brake lever pivot in place and remove the pivot pin and brake lever. See if the drag is reduced, when brakes are hot.

If the drag is reduced, you know you don't have enough free play and you just need to remove some material from the brake lever where it engages the caliper piston.

May or may not help your issue but worth a shot.

 

[dub]

Dub, check the lever on the mastercylinder..if it keeps the piston from coming completely out to the snapring..it will drag the brakes when it gets hot....I have seen this many times when people replace a mastercylinder on their car/truck and the rod from the booster holds the piston off the snapring...you need just a slight amount of freeplay on the lever before it engages the piston...

I am sure this is my problem, when I hit the brakes it goes away for a few seconds but adjusts itself tight again. What is the fix, to grind some off as Murph says?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I am sure this is my problem, when I hit the brakes it goes away for a few seconds but adjusts itself tight again. What is the fix, to grind some off as Murph says?

I havent looked at the master on my pro..it could be adjustable..other wise you need to grind it a bit or take it to the dealer...

 

[IceCap]

My brake lever is also very hard to set.

I have not looked yet but is there no adjustment?

Murph did you grind the brake lever at the caliper?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

My brake lever is also very hard to set.

I have not looked yet but is there no adjustment?

Murph did you grind the brake lever at the caliper?

it would be the handle on the mastercylinder..it should have a very small amount of freeplay before it moves the piston in the mastercylinder..I havent looked at mine to see if it is adjustable....

 

[Murph]

the lever is not adjustable.

I removed material from the lever itself where it actuates the piston in the master cylinder--not the caliper.

The lever is nylon-- go easy with the grinder, wheel, file, etc....

 

[Murph]

This de-celleration is from the style of secondary clutch. I prefer the old button clutches.

I noticed this today descending from some small hill climbs. Hand off the throttle completely and the motor stays at around 4,000 rpm.

In the past, my other sled would drop back to idle on descent when the throttle was released and the clutch would disengage.

If I apply the brake (even momentarily), the motor will drop right back to idle.

Is this a characteristic of the clutch? I'm not complaining, just curious.