changing tracks with diamond drive????Info
- Thread starter Heater15
- Start date
done 07renegade and 08 crossfire this year and cat was much easier and less messy.
the older ones with out reverse was even more simple. Should check diamond drive
while ya got it out.
the older ones with out reverse was even more simple. Should check diamond drive
while ya got it out.
Slediot is bang on. Never had it easier, Pull the big through bolt in the middle of the brake side of the shaft, remove the nuts in the tunnel for the brake caliper mount, losen the track tension off, drop the skid out of the way, and work the drive shaft out of the back of the DD, and keep it going with the caliper and all, till the driver gets up against the inside of the tunnel. Then if you get the track at the same angle as the drive shaft, it'll slip right out. Just gotta be careful not to damage the seal when re and re'n the driveshaft from the DD. Remember when bolting the skid back up, to release the spring tension, weather it be torsion springs, or air from the float to get the rear holes lined up easily. And be careful the shock shaft doesnt pivot down and sit against the bottom of the track, its easy to miss till it busts stuff up.
i use a ratchet strap, 07 M8, ran from top rear shock mount to the bottom of the rear shock mount to keep the suspension compressed. set the tension before you pull the rear skid and it will mount right back into the holes. those torsion springs can really suck to take off and put back in the rails.
yeah, my first sleds were M7s and I just went Dragon. Wow, I was spoiled with the ease of the DD vs Chaincase. Very easy, Slediot and Coxy are right on.
I agree with everybody else, DO NOT PULL THE DIAMON DRIVE. Anybody that tells you to pull the diamond drive does not know the fastest way to swap tracks. If you do a search you will find a lot of info about how to do this. I swapped tracks proably 7 times last winter and I have it down to an hour from start to finish. The biggest pain in the azz is getting the front skid bolts back in, other then that its a piece of cake. Also some will tell you to replace the funny nut that holds the caliper on, don't listen to them it is not necessary.
Your first time will be a learning experience I think it took me 6 hours cause I had no clue what I was doing. I hope this info cuts your time in half.
Your first time will be a learning experience I think it took me 6 hours cause I had no clue what I was doing. I hope this info cuts your time in half.
TIP IT ON ITS SIDE!!! don't let gravity kill you.
this is a thread that i wrote a while back. just copied and pasted it here
you don't even need to remove the diamond drive.
1.take the left side suspension bolts out.
2.tip the sled on its left side.
3.take the right side bolts out.
4.loosen the bolts that hold your rear bogie wheels on a little bit.
5.loosen the track tensioner bolts to give the track some slack.
6.pull the suspension out. at this point you can do a couple of things. either
buy or make a tool to grab the pigtail end of the rear suspension spring and take it off the spring adjuster block. or you can remove the blocks that the spring slides through down on the rails. this collapses the suspension and makes putting the suspension back in a snap.
7.remove the nut on the driveshaft.
8.remove the brake caliper assy.
9.pull the rotor off the shaft.
10.take the long bolt that is inside the center of the driveshaft out.
11.take the 5 bolts that hold the brake assy out.
12.lift the drive shaft up until it clears the diamond drive.
13.tilt it at an angle and drop it down and out of the sled.
14.remove your track.
15.install new track.
16.reverse the steps taken to remove the track to install the new one. when you get to putting in the suspension bolts, a second set of hands really helps. install and bolt the whole suspension in on its side. it is 10 times easier to move the shaft around and get the hole lined up when its on its side.
once you get the suspension in and everything bolted back down. you can set the sled back down on the track. hold the back of the sled up off the ground and make sure that the bottom of the rear shock doesn't rotate forward. you will get it all ready to go and the bottom of the shock will rub on the track. your suspension won't travel properly either.
no kidding, 2 guys, parts that aren't rusted and stuck together, 20 minutes.
this is a thread that i wrote a while back. just copied and pasted it here
you don't even need to remove the diamond drive.
1.take the left side suspension bolts out.
2.tip the sled on its left side.
3.take the right side bolts out.
4.loosen the bolts that hold your rear bogie wheels on a little bit.
5.loosen the track tensioner bolts to give the track some slack.
6.pull the suspension out. at this point you can do a couple of things. either
buy or make a tool to grab the pigtail end of the rear suspension spring and take it off the spring adjuster block. or you can remove the blocks that the spring slides through down on the rails. this collapses the suspension and makes putting the suspension back in a snap.
7.remove the nut on the driveshaft.
8.remove the brake caliper assy.
9.pull the rotor off the shaft.
10.take the long bolt that is inside the center of the driveshaft out.
11.take the 5 bolts that hold the brake assy out.
12.lift the drive shaft up until it clears the diamond drive.
13.tilt it at an angle and drop it down and out of the sled.
14.remove your track.
15.install new track.
16.reverse the steps taken to remove the track to install the new one. when you get to putting in the suspension bolts, a second set of hands really helps. install and bolt the whole suspension in on its side. it is 10 times easier to move the shaft around and get the hole lined up when its on its side.
once you get the suspension in and everything bolted back down. you can set the sled back down on the track. hold the back of the sled up off the ground and make sure that the bottom of the rear shock doesn't rotate forward. you will get it all ready to go and the bottom of the shock will rub on the track. your suspension won't travel properly either.
no kidding, 2 guys, parts that aren't rusted and stuck together, 20 minutes.
H
hatchers
Well-known member
Ive had a few skidoo sleds and the revs are a pain in the butt to remove and replace the track vs. the M sleds
as said before you can either pull the DD or the brake.....they both seem to take the same time for me.....i tend to pull the DD as it needs to be serviced alot!!
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