chain case glue

[kawi119]

Does anyone know why the chain case is glued to the frame on a sba and do you have to reglue It back on. That glue makes it a big pain the butt for someone that changes their track or gearing often

 

[poliguy]

for structure support and another head ache to deal with.

 

[LoudHandle]

There has been no need to pull the chaincase since they quit using the four drivers in the mid nintey's. On the ones that have little track clearance between the tunnel and lug tip, I use a piece of thin plastic ( like the kids sleds you can buy for a$1-2) to allow the track to slip past the driver and then roll it out and stab the spline into the case. For what it is worth.

 

[kawi119]

I don't know if you changed a track on a sba but the driveshaft is huge i don't know how you could change it without removing the chain case

 

[LoudHandle]

That is why they made the hole extra big in the PTO side of the tunnel.

All you have to do to change gears is tip it on the PTO side and level the sled so you don't lose the oil. Should all be in the sump and below the bearing height.

For changing the track, you remove the belt and the driven clutch, pull the four rear suspension bolts, tip it to the PTO side and level the sled, remove the rear suspension, pull the chain case cover, remove the bottom gear retaining bolt, remove the three fasteners on the big steel PTO side bearing retainer plate, slide the shaft towards the ground and let it angle away from the tunnel, lift the track out, put the new track in the tunnel and around the drive shaft, if the clearance is tight between the paddles and the tunnel ( I throw a piece of cardboard or a thin stiff piece of plastic in between the track and the driver), slide the shaft up and start it into the seal and chain case bearing, rotate the plastic out and bolt up the bottom gear, re-install the three fasteners on the large steel plate, set chain tension and install cover, re-install the rear suspension and bolts, flop back flat on the skis. re-install driven clutch and belt, align track and ride!

I can do this almost as fast as I can type this, with some practice so will you. Drive shaft diameter makes no difference, as you will find out. I little finesse is required so you don't roach the seal but defiantly doable.

 

[kawi119]

Thanks for the help you think i have to reglue the back of the chain case

 

[LoudHandle]

It is ultimately your call, most of the '11's came unglued and that year there was a larger occurrence of tunnels being kinked in that area. So all years since have been glued. If it were my sled it would get re-glued. Mountain Horse has a sticky in the Pro section for a more economical option for obtaining the Lords glue than the Polaris dealer retail cost.

 

[High Velocity]

A friend and I just put 3" tracks in our '12's and the stock setup came out very easy. Absolutely no need to remove the chaincase unless you're going to a 3" track. If you do remove the chaincase, you definitely want to reassemble with the proper adhesive to maintain the structural integrity of the chassis.


Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.