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Bypass valve - came off during pipe removal.... orientation?

T

TheBreeze

Well-known member
Polaris
Have the pipe off to install bumper. The bypess valve fell off, and is not longer attached to the square drive end of the servo motor. How should it be oriented during reinstalation? It appears like it should mount right up, but that has the bypass valve open. Am I over thinking this? Also, what fun that lower y pipe spring is to remove. Installation should be infinitely more difficult.
 
Have the pipe off to install bumper. The bypess valve fell off, and is not longer attached to the square drive end of the servo motor. How should it be oriented during reinstalation? It appears like it should mount right up, but that has the bypass valve open. Am I over thinking this? Also, what fun that lower y pipe spring is to remove. Installation should be infinitely more difficult.
Bypass valve is in the open position
 
I would have assumed it was closed at idle as well, but this bypass valve setup is new to me. All of my past knowledge stems around aftermarket setups without the pipe dump bypass valve. The bypass valve is pre loaded with a spring that defaults to the open position. It appears as though the servo motor (or whatever it is called) is there to provide the force to close the bypass valve, and the spring returns it to open. Does the valve close when the sled is started? Does it close at a certain RPM? I would sure think you would want it closed until desired pipe pressure is reached.

If anyone has a better understanding of the fine details of the system, I would love to hear more about it.
 
I’m having issues with mine. I’ve got a check engine code P1021 telling me it’s not going through its learning process. Thinking like the exhaust vale’s go through a 1-2-3 position check on start up. My wastegate is in the open position when the motor is off.

Can anyone check to see if these wastegate valves also go through a 2 or 3 position check right when you start the motor like the exhaust valves? You would look at the silver cable looking deal that goes from the servo actuator to the wastegate valve and see if it turns to a few positions then rest at the starting point. You’d have to have the side panel off when you start it to watch that cable for movement. Really curious to know about this. Thanks…


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I’m having issues with mine. I’ve got a check engine code P1021 telling me it’s not going through its learning process. Thinking like the exhaust vale’s go through a 1-2-3 position check on start up. My wastegate is in the open position when the motor is off.

Can anyone check to see if these wastegate valves also go through a 2 or 3 position check right when you start the motor like the exhaust valves? You would look at the silver cable looking deal that goes from the servo actuator to the wastegate valve and see if it turns to a few positions then rest at the starting point. You’d have to have the side panel off when you start it to watch that cable for movement. Really curious to know about this. Thanks…


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Did you remove the bypass valve at one point?
 
Yes. When I put my aftermarket bumper on you have to take off the pipe and wastegate deal. The valve was in the open position. I had the wastegate check engine code on prior to putting on the new bumper.

If someone is thinking you need to relearn the wastegate like the exhaust valves I don’t think that’s the case. I know when you mess with the exhaust valves for example they may need to be “relearned”. Not seeing how this same idea would have effected my wastegate issue as the wastgate assembly simply slides on and off the square end of the silver cable deal. It’ll actually surprise you when taking it off the pipe that it just falls off the square cable deal by itself. And that’s when you wonder what position it was in before it slid off the square end of the cable.


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I’m having issues with mine. I’ve got a check engine code P1021 telling me it’s not going through its learning process. Thinking like the exhaust vale’s go through a 1-2-3 position check on start up. My wastegate is in the open position when the motor is off.

Can anyone check to see if these wastegate valves also go through a 2 or 3 position check right when you start the motor like the exhaust valves? You would look at the silver cable looking deal that goes from the servo actuator to the wastegate valve and see if it turns to a few positions then rest at the starting point. You’d have to have the side panel off when you start it to watch that cable for movement. Really curious to know about this. Thanks…


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Mine is in the open position when started and doesn't not move unless I give it throttle. There are no codes indicating a learning process nor does it appear to go through one. Something about it is not right though, the exhaust seems a little louder and even though the display shows boost I can not feel it or hear the waste gate opening, It's like the boost is non existent. That is part of why I question if it is supposed to be closed. Closing it seems like a bad idea though if it's not supposed to be that way. Couldn't that blow the motor?
 
Interesting on the wastegate cable not turning to its different positions right at start up. You might have the same issue as mine. Like the servo motor isn’t working to open and close the wastgate valve.

My sled runs “pretty” good but I’m sure it isn’t getting full power. I can barely hear any blow off noise like is so easy to hear in videos of guys riding the boosts. I’ve gotta be full on it under load and if I chop the throttle I’ll hear just a little blowoff. My boost gauge on the display does indicate some boost but I’m not convinced that gauge is all that accurate. I’m sure my wastegate is not closing under heavy throttle. I’m also only getting maybe 8,100 rpm. Not seeing 8,400 to 8,500 like most boosts.


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Interesting on the wastegate cable not turning to its different positions right at start up. You might have the same issue as mine. Like the servo motor isn’t working to open and close the wastgate valve.

My sled runs “pretty” good but I’m sure it isn’t getting full power. I can barely hear any blow off noise like is so easy to hear in videos of guys riding the boosts. I’ve gotta be full on it under load and if I chop the throttle I’ll hear just a little blowoff. My boost gauge on the display does indicate some boost but I’m not convinced that gauge is all that accurate. I’m sure my wastegate is not closing under heavy throttle. I’m also only getting maybe 8,100 rpm. Not seeing 8,400 to 8,500 like most boosts.


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Everything was fine until you took it apart and that damn thing fell off? I thought mine was ok but now I'm looking back at the last couple rides and wondering if maybe it had been fading already? Until I figure out if that is in the wrong position I am little worried about taking it in to the mechanic. Either way I guess there has to be more going on than just the position it was put in there. If it self checks it should be throwing a code for me if it's wrong.
 
To clarify. Mine wasn’t building full boost from before I installed my new front bumper. Check engine light was on from the first time I started it and it was bone stock. I put my front bumper on at about 100 miles. That’s when I took the pipe off and noted the wastegate valve in the open position. I’d assume the open position is the default position if the actuator fails as it’s not going to build as much boost while open. When it closes it sends all the exhaust past it and directly to the turbo and therefore builds maximum boost. I’m not a mechanic so I’m making some what seems to be obvious guesses looking at the system.


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To clarify. Mine wasn’t building full boost from before I installed my new front bumper. Check engine light was on from the first time I started it and it was bone stock. I put my front bumper on at about 100 miles. That’s when I took the pipe off and noted the wastegate valve in the open position. I’d assume the open position is the default position if the actuator fails as it’s not going to build as much boost while open. When it closes it sends all the exhaust past it and directly to the turbo and therefore builds maximum boost. I’m not a mechanic so I’m making some what seems to be obvious guesses looking at the system.


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Did you ever figure out why your check engine light was on and you weren't making full power?
 
The shop is still working on it. Thinking it’s a bad ecu. My ecu would not cycle the wastgate valve so it was staying in the open position. They tried a different ecu off another boost and the wastegate went through its cycle. Now I need to get a new ecu in my sled.


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The shop is still working on it. Thinking it’s a bad ecu. My ecu would not cycle the wastgate valve so it was staying in the open position. They tried a different ecu off another boost and the wastegate went through its cycle. Now I need to get a new ecu in my sled.


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I want to make sure I am understanding this correctly because the shop has told me unless there is a check engine light and something is broken they will not cover diagnosing a problem unless something is proven to be a warranty issue. Is the wastegate valve supposed to cycle at start up? As soon I start the sled nothing happens until i give it throttle and then the wastegate works. That seems normal to me but it sounds like maybe it's supposed to cycle first and do a test? Normally I wouldn't think too much about it but I rarely hear anything from the turbo and it is much quieter than before. I have had people even comment to me about not hearing it at all.

Just trying to figure it out since the shop doesn't seem to know much more than me. Maybe my turbo is a stealth addition and I am such a bad as that all that extra power isn't even noticeable to me anymore, but I highly doubt it.
 
Mine had a check engine light on and a code # P1021 for watergate learning malfunction. Sorry… Not sure what to say about your situation?


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