Selkirk Engine Armor

[Chadx]

I kind of guessed it would take some patience and adjustments being an early adopter. These were out there last year, but not in enough numbers to develop a knowledge base. Plus Marc was still making changes, even as they were going out the door this year. He was learning from more bike and kit combinations being out in the field and pulling improvements into the runs as improvements were identified, which was great. I'm very happy with my setup. The $675 that I spent was barely more than the skidplate, pipe guards and/or pipe wrap and silicone spray, engine blanket,front snow shield, radiator shields, etc. that I would have had to buy and install for my new build and I think the Selkirk looks better and plus has the heat exchanger which, to me, is a big part of the value. Now that it's installed and adjusted to my bike and my liking, it is maintenance free.

By next year, I think it will be even more refined and there will be even more bike and kit specific changes and improvements.

If I was starting all over again tomorrow, I'd buy another Selkirk kit. That should sum up my positive opinion.

 

[wwillf01]

These things seem like a lot of work for what you pay for....

Once plumbing was figured out on the ktm 450sxf I have not touched a thing... nothing has melted, burned, airfilter stays dry no matter the depth of the snow (using k and n pod instead of cage because it was worth 2hp on the dyno). I get a full 10 actual engine hours before changing oil/filter full syn and most likely could go longer. To me it cut much of the hassle of temp control out. If there is a foot or more or if it is snowing everything goes on. If not the covers come off... this takes 30 seconds at most. I have hit all types of trees and it has stayed solid... for me it's worth every penny...since buying this stuff separate your really at the same cost. Keeping the engine in the right range affords you so much more hp.... can you go and build something of of whatever for a lot cheaper ... I am sure but I rather be riding..... I want something to be installed and work and move on..

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[AllHatNoCattle]

People keep mentioning weight and the selkirk together. I just want to note that when wearing an engine blanket my bike would accumulate a large amount of ice every ride. It would be all around the engine area/skid plate etc. Dangling off the little ball bungies that held the engine blanket on.

Now with the selkirk I dont accumulate anything. There is usually water dripping out of the bottom from the warmth of the heat exchanger. I would say that in real world riding, the selkirk does not add much if any weight to the bike.

 

[wwillf01]

Also gives you a much smoother front to go through the powder without the sharp edges...

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[RmK8oo]

I'm running the Selkirk kit with a 194*F C3 thermostat on my 18 Husky FE501. The kit has functioned flawlessly. Bike runs consistent temps of 175*F-200*F off trail (powder panel installed) and 180*F-200*F on trail (powder panel removed). I have not had to remove either side panel yet. Like other's have mentioned, there is virtually no snow/ice buildup no matter how deep the powder is. Water is usually dripping from the skid plate when stopped due to the heat exchanger. The Selkirk kit looks amazing and functions just as well! It was worth every penny in my opinion!

 

[byeatts]

People keep mentioning weight and the selkirk together. I just want to note that when wearing an engine blanket my bike would accumulate a large amount of ice every ride. It would be all around the engine area/skid plate etc. Dangling off the little ball bungies that held the engine blanket on.

Now with the selkirk I dont accumulate anything. There is usually water dripping out of the bottom from the warmth of the heat exchanger. I would say that in real world riding, the selkirk does not add much if any weight to the bike.

Interesting Where is this snow buildup? my engine is completely covered and its hot . There is zero snow buildup, Not sure what covers ewe were using? I had the Selkirt kit in the shop and on the scale . The weight is is a reality and achieves the same temps as a proper setup soft cover kit. We spend $100 per pound adding light weight components to all snow sport vehicles , We are floating on snow and every lbs matters. If Selkirk achieved better results than a properly setup soft system then a little extra weight would be worth it however the result is the same with no weight penalty .

 

[wwillf01]

I would get ice under the skid plate, back of the engine and some other places... seemed like with a soft cover I was always messing and fixing trips and burns... sxs plastic kit all types of melting points and ice build up. I would take carbon fiber in a heart beat... that being said I have hot all types of crap and this thing stays tru....

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[AllHatNoCattle]

Interesting Where is this snow buildup? my engine is completely covered and its hot . There is zero snow buildup, Not sure what covers ewe were using? I had the Selkirt kit in the shop and on the scale . The weight is is a reality and achieves the same temps as a proper setup soft cover kit. We spend $100 per pound adding light weight components to all snow sport vehicles , We are floating on snow and every lbs matters. If Selkirk achieved better results than a properly setup soft system then a little extra weight would be worth it however the result is the same with no weight penalty .

I was using a PST engine blanket and stock plastic skid plate. It was set up exactly as it should have been and it would accumulate ice and packed snow all around the bottom of the motor. My temps would drop down to 130 once I hit the powder and my bike would start to act wierd because it was cold. My particular bike didn't like to idle, so I had to hold the throttle open to keep it running. Super annoying.

I dont pay $100 per pound to lose weight on my snowbike. In fact my tools weigh a lot more than the selkirk ever could. If you are really worried about 3 extra pounds then lay off the beer for a month and you will lose 20 lbs haha

Nobody is trying to convince you that you should run out and buy a selkirk today. If you are happy with your setup then stick with it. For those who want to know more about Selkirk setup and owners experience, that is what this thread is for.

 

[Chadx]

Chadx...Are you using a plastic hose reducer to take the stock radiator hose down to the 3/8 hose to the
heat exchanger? ...

Mossyz, I forgot to answer your previous question. I used brass PEX reducing coupler (similar to attachment). The store I was in didn't have a brass coupler with hose barbs in stock and I didn't want to cobble together barbed to threaded to threaded to barbed so found an appropriately sized coupler in the PEX section. No problem with sealing to the PEX barbs with a single hose clamp. If you use plastic fittings, just make sure it's rated for high enough temps. Many PEX couplers are only rated to 200 degrees F. It's probably best to just source brass over plastic if you can.

 

[snowpromod]

First trip is in the books with my Selkirk. I experienced a lot of ice build up inside the armor, it would melt a fair amount but with all the new powder coming in it eventually just got pack full. It was hard to keep the temp up with all the slush/ice built up inside the armor. Any thoughts or ideas on how to make prevent this?

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[Chadx]

First trip is in the books with my Selkirk. I experienced a lot of ice build up inside the armor, it would melt a fair amount but with all the new powder coming in it eventually just got pack full. It was hard to keep the temp up with all the slush/ice built up inside the armor. Any thoughts or ideas on how to make prevent this?

snowpromod,
Looks like a Yamaha YZ, correct? Not sure how you could get that much snow build up like that unless you don't have your radiators covered which, like all builds, is a must in deep snow. Selkirks small removable radiator cover isn't adequate. It helps, but you still need to fully block that area otherwise you're shoveling snow inside. Selkirk is looking at options for a full radiator blockout last time I spoke with them. In the meantime, the small removable selkirk shield works great for holding a piece of vinyl fabric in place. See my post earlier in this thread: https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/selkirk-engine-armor.452323/page-3#post-4341728

What were your average engine temps? Likely a bit low with all that in there.

It also helps to put some closed-cell phone around your engine (under and behind) and in the areas between the selkirk and the frame on the sides where snow gets in from the back.
https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/selkirk-engine-armor.452323/page-4#post-4342189

I was in 3'+ powder all day yesterday and temps ran 165 - 175 degrees F all day. Powder was 2'+ on top of the groomed trails on the way in so kept the radiators covers on even on the trail. Temps didn't climb past 194 degrees F (where my thermostat opens) until we got to within a couple miles of the trailhead where enough trail traffic had packed down the trail. Then I pulled my vinyl radiator cover and ran the rest of the slow, mogulled way back at a perfect 170 - 180 degrees F.

Removing my cover takes about 15 seconds. Installing takes 20 - 60 seconds depending on how finicky I am with lining it up. Ha. If I don't run it in the powder, my engine temps are 130 - 150 F. plus my radiators, radiator guards and selkirk plastic louvers get clogged with snow and ice. Then, when I need the airflow on the trail, it's blocked and I run hot. Having a removable radiator cover keeps temps where they need to be in the powder plus, keeps the radiators clear of ice so when I remove the cover and need the airflow on the trails, they get the airflow they need. Also, by keeping all that snow out of there, your bike doesn't cool off drastically when you stop for a few minutes to talk, snack, or dig someone out. With all that snow in there, my temps would plummet down to 100 degrees F or below even on short stops. Now it holds temps better on short stops.

 

[snowpromod]

It is a YZ - my rad cover did not work, it got so packed full that the intake was clogged and the bike didn’t want to run, pic below is after I cleaned some out. Back to the drawing board...

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[Chadx]

It is a YZ - my rad cover did not work, it got so packed full that the intake was clogged and the bike didn’t want to run, pic below is after I cleaned some out. Back to the drawing board...

Wow, that is packed. Can you post a picture of what you did for radiator covers? Could just be snow conditions, too. All powder is not created equal. Ha.

I like using the vinyl fabric because it conforms to the surface where hard plastic can leave gaps. So just curious what your current cover setup looks like. And what temps were you running all day with all that snow in there?

 

[snowpromod]

Temps were low, I was hitting around 140 on the trail. I’m also wondering if going back to the CR intake would be better and eliminate the loss of power due to packing the Intake full with the C3 setup.


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[Chadx]

Temps were low, I was hitting around 140 on the trail. I’m also wondering if going back to the CR intake would be better and eliminate the loss of power due to packing the Intake full with the C3 setup.

Solving the snow blocking would be a higher priority in my opinion. Then you don't have to listen to the CR intake plus you care for the other issues caused by that much snow getting in.

If you revamp your radiator blanket, trim them tall enough that the top folds backwards over the top of your radiator then no snow going in there either.

 

[needpowder]

Pods leave a ton of room for snow to get in. Go back to stock. You’ll be much happier. Dry filter, pre-filter over it block off the horns and pack some foam around there.CR works also but is louder.

 

[needpowder]

Pods leave a ton of room for snow to get in. Go back to stock. You’ll be much happier. Dry filter, pre-filter over it block off the horns and pack some foam around there.CR works also but is louder.

Be sure to brush off any filter you have after you ride so snow doesn’t melt and go down where it shouldn’t.

 

[Chadx]

Pods leave a ton of room for snow to get in. Go back to stock. You’ll be much happier. Dry filter, pre-filter over it block off the horns and pack some foam around there.CR works also but is louder.

Hard to believe that stock would be more troublefree than a pod filter. How are you letting a stock setup breath with horns plugged and no frogZskin vents?

I'm Super happy with c3 intake on my YZ. I never have snow in and on my engine or up around my filter. Breathes great, trouble free, not loud like CR and not choked like stock filter setup and/or no messing with frogzskin vents.

I submit that if you have enough snow getting in that causes one to not be able to use a pod filter, you have bigger issues to address. If you change your intake so it works, you still have all the issues from letting all that powder in. It still needs to be addressed so might as well address it from the start and then the pod filter will also then work great.

 

[needpowder]

We get a lot of light snow but even in the heavier snow set up still works great. Have you tried stock? I ran a pod the last couple years and was constantly cleaning it out. The stock filter basically blocks all the snow from getting in there from underneath. I always have a little snow in my air box on powder days and sometimes even quite a bit but it never bogs from it.

 

[needpowder]

Could be the difference in snow I guess? A lot of air in our Utah powder. I tried blocking off all around my pod but the fine snow would still get up through and block it off. Bike still seems to get plenty of air through the horns with foam in them. Five of us running this set up and really no problems at all. Definitely lots of deep snow. Chadx where do you ride again? I forget.