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Burandt Pro Rmk Boards on a Proclimb

B

Burn Down

Well-known member
Okay, I have gotten a few PM's on putting the Burandt Boards on a Proclimb. So I got some motivation to get started on this project:face-icon-small-hap. I took measurements for all that are interested. Pics are of the right hand side, I haven't started removing the left side yet.

The first pic is the width of the sled from the outside edge of the stirrup/running board. I will post another pic when finished showing the difference once completed. (I just noticed the belt guts in the corner... Must be one of those phantom belt killers lol)
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This is the width of the factory boards, at about 7 5/16".
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This is the Burandt board, at about 6 1/4". ( I measured at the width that it will sit in the Proclimb chassis)
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Burandt board laying on top of the factory board. Tail is up over the factory rear running board support but the front is sitting pretty close to where the Burandt board will end up.
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Rear running board support on the Burnadt board will line up perfectly with top of the tunnel. I toyed with shortening the boards up to line up with the rear support hole and the front stirrup but I think the extra length will be nice with more room to move on the sled.
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Rear support comparison. The Burandt board is way beefier. These shouldn't break to easily... I hope.
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Tail section width factory board.
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Tail section width Burandt board. They don't taper near as heavy as the Cat board.
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Bottom side of the Burandt board, doesn't have such a abrupt edge like the stock boards. Aksnopro has a good pick in his thread of the stocker I forgot to snap one.
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Alright enough measuring and comparing (Pshyching myself up to do it).
Lets start cutting this $12,500 sled up:evil:
 
So that will narrow the sled just as mutch as the Rasmussen airframes, but of course way cheeper :)
Looks good :)
 
Dangit one more with the board laying inside the stocker. Back is kicked out a touch because of the tunnel sections pooching out a little.
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Okay now lets hack this sucker up! First I started with a 4" grinder and a cutoff wheel. I followed the line where the outer section of the tunnel meets the factory board. Follow the line splitting the hardened hammer rivets as I went.
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Now I cut up the front towards the outer stirrup mount. I left plenty of material up front that will be trimmed to match the B. boards pattern in the stirrup area later.
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Next I drilled and ground the rivet heads off of the stirrup to running board coupling and at the rear suspension plates.
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Here I cut back towards the rear suspension plates and the running board support. Caution pay attention when you head to the back that you don't cut the suspension plate off... I nicked it a little oops.
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Drill out the rear support rivets. The lower support hardware is not a rivet but a torx head with paint or powder coat in it. I drilled it because it looked like a rivet once I slid it out I could see the threads... The hole for the support will get a piece of black painted aluminum as the Burandt board support mounts a few inches farther back.
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I decided the Board needed to be moved ahead a little to match the rear suspension mounting brackets. I had to notch the board in the front quite a bit to get far enough ahead and to clear the chain case cover. I also wanted to leave plenty of room to remove the chain case cover without having to pull the board...
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I didn't get a finished pic of the notch but this is what I started with to get the board far enough ahead to line up the Burandt board and the Cat rear suspension bracket. I'll post one with the finished notch later.
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The Burandt board front mount ends up in front of the Cat stirrup about an inch or so. Not sure yet what I want to do with the stirrup. Cut the horizontal part off and bend it forward, hammer it flat and fit it over the Burandt mount and install bolts. Or move it completely inside of the mount and bolt it with spacer inside the tube so it doesn't crush. The latter would net the most clearance to pull the lower plastics in but not sure its enough. Maybe build a new one out of aluminum tube might save a little weight but probably not much. I have a day or two to think about it. I will also be doing Wyoboy's Panel tuck, once I figure out the final spot for the stirrup...
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Bottom pic of the above. Also I will be cutting the front panels out to match Burandt boards.
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Pretty much where there going to live... Just needing some final trimming and fitting. I will use clecos to hold everything before I finish rivet. Also toying with using Lords glue to help really attach these suckers. Mountain Horse has sourced a kit that doesn't cost a arm and a leg in the Poo section. Thanks :yo:
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So that will narrow the sled just as mutch as the Rasmussen airframes, but of course way cheeper :)
Looks good :)

I think they will be a little narrower than the Rasmussen Skinz boards... However they will take some fab work, not a ton but more than the Ras. Skinz board. I have about 4 hours into this point, with maybe another hour or two more to finish. The left side will go way faster. I think I spent 2 hours just measuring and sitting with there with the grinder wondering WTF! lol then I said screw it, worse case Im out 250 bucks and have to buy some Ras. boards.
 
Lookin good, I would beef up the kick up in the rear. even a 1/8" piece of aluminum riveted on to go through would be good.

You will have at leas an hour or 2 pushing in the plastic.

Looks killer though

I wish they would have came out last year when I did mine.

I had like 14hrs in mine (at least)
 
Lookin good, I would beef up the kick up in the rear. even a 1/8" piece of aluminum riveted on to go through would be good.

You will have at leas an hour or 2 pushing in the plastic.

Looks killer though

I wish they would have came out last year when I did mine.

I had like 14hrs in mine (at least)

I was thinking the same, probably just run it one piece to cover the old hole and provide some strength for the upper support mount.

I don't think I will have any where near 14 hours... Just guessing 8-10. They really line up better than I had hoped for.

What do you think about the front stirrup? I have thought about just bending the bar forward cutting it off and slipping it over the Burandt mount. Hammer it the shape of the mount, drill it, & bolt it up.

Or heat the lords glue up and pull the mount out, cut the board back to line up with the mount and the cat stirrup. This also would require me getting some lords glue Or making nice with the Polaris dealer to see if they would reglue it for me...

Then pull the plastic in to the outer edge of the stirrup. Did you modify the stirrup at the bend where it heads to the fuel tank or just the lower portion up to the bend?
 
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When it comes time to pull in your plastic, make sure you double check your side panel fit. I had to redo one side cause it didn't fit like it should of.
 
Thanks for taking the photos and write up, I appreciate the extra time that takes for a project.

For the unpainted rear tunnel brace, if you're not powder coating it, a good match for the AC black is Duplicolor self etching primer followed with Duplicolor black brake caliper paint.
 
I think they will be a little narrower than the Rasmussen Skinz boards... However they will take some fab work, not a ton but more than the Ras. Skinz board. I have about 4 hours into this point, with maybe another hour or two more to finish. The left side will go way faster. I think I spent 2 hours just measuring and sitting with there with the grinder wondering WTF! lol then I said screw it, worse case Im out 250 bucks and have to buy some Ras. boards.

Looks to me that they narrow the sled 1" per side. Thats not more than my airframes ;)
 
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I just cut the front sturrip in the bend, that way it holds the upper in place. If your a heavy jumper I would build a little brace to attach the front stirrup in one more place on the tunnel. like a little kicker instead of just a tab only.
 
Thanks for posting this I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished product and how it ends up working for you in the backcountry. Looks really nice so far man keep up the good work.
 
Looks to me that they narrow the sled 1" per side. Thats not more than my airframes ;)

Alright Rukus, challenge accepted... Throw a tape on your Skinz boards for me. Hook the tape measure on the outer edge of the stirrup tube and run it through the track right behind the drivers. Snap me a pic with the width (outside edge to outside edge of the stirrup). Gotta give me something shoot for:face-icon-small-win
 
Thanks for taking the photos and write up, I appreciate the extra time that takes for a project.

For the unpainted rear tunnel brace, if you're not powder coating it, a good match for the AC black is Duplicolor self etching primer followed with Duplicolor black brake caliper paint.

Thanks, yes the pictures and the write up does take some extra time but it's fun & I like sharing/discussing. Sometimes others see things that will work better so that's a plus as well.

Thanks, for tip on the black paint. Can't leave any thing on there that's not black... The tunnel is getting replaced as well with a 13' tail section. I will cut down the factory cooler as well.

I need to get my hands on a cheapish scale to hang these turds from I would like to check my weight loss project. Anyone know of a cheapish scale?
 
I just cut the front sturrip in the bend, that way it holds the upper in place. If your a heavy jumper I would build a little brace to attach the front stirrup in one more place on the tunnel. like a little kicker instead of just a tab only.

That's a good idea. Im not a heavy jumper but I was already bowing the stockers in the center. The outer tube seems to be plenty stout on the stocker but the actual board/traction portion is pretty weak.
 
Alright Rukus, challenge accepted... Throw a tape on your Skinz boards for me. Hook the tape measure on the outer edge of the stirrup tube and run it through the track right behind the drivers. Snap me a pic with the width (outside edge to outside edge of the stirrup). Gotta give me something shoot for:face-icon-small-win

I want to see full pic, lay it on its side and hold the tap outside to outside right where the plastic meets it.
 
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